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J13 rear main seal


boxboy

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Hello guys,

I replaced the rear main seal on my J15 several years ago and the old Datsun just drips a little in the driveway, and I think it is from the front of the block. I tried using an MGB 1800 rear seal, but it was too thin if I remember right. I ended up using the rope seal from the kit and the directions from someone on the "old forum." I can't remember who it was but their advice was to trim the seal so it was just a little proud of the engine block and use some gasket sealer on the trimmed edges before bolting down the bearing caps. I am thrilled that my old truck leaks less than my other cars now. Also look for manuals at used book sellers. I found one by Clymer, and one from Chilton's "number 5660." The chilton's book had all the tork specs and tune up specs that I needed, I think. If I didn't tork something right it has at least lasted 6 years or so of limited use. Good luck

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Our strategy was to insert the 1/2 rope seal in the channel of the block, gently tap the seal with the ball of a hammer to fully seat the seal in the channel. I believe we had to cut 1/8" from each half end of the seal after tapping. we repeated the procedure for the 1/2 seal on the seal/crank cap. (We used the seal from the comprehensive gasket kit acquired on ebay.)

Keith

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i used the shank of a large screwdriver to work the seal into its little channel, first up need to get it in there as best you can, gently with your fingers, then working from the center out i rolled the screwdriver shank along the seal toward either end which got it in some more, i think i put the crank up at this stage then trimmed the seal (all rope seals will come with more than you need) with a very sharp razor blade (just a fresh one i spose)

 

pretty sure i used a dab of RTV at either end of the seal, cant remember now

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Just to push this a little further, someone around my area suggested pulling the bearing cap and then threading a string or wire through the groove above the crank and pulling the new rope seal through. Since I don't yet know what this looks like, does it sound possible?

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  • 4 weeks later...

The Datsun Engine Manual is for the J13/J15&J16. The manual is at the engine rebuilder, but when I get it back I'll be glad to copy the index. Then you can tell me what page(s) you need copies of.

Keith

Hey Keith, I'm in the same boat needing the correct info for a J13 rebuild. I sure would appreciate your posting that info. I thought the manual of info I had was enough but apparently not listening to this engine seal banter, so please let me know if I can do anything to help out, thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Zed1, I could use the pages for the J13 rebuild. All the torque settings and correct info to put the motor back together correctly. Mam that would be a huge help if you could put that info up here. I know there are several people in the same process with J13's here posting so pretty sure they could use it aswell. Thanks, a big help!

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JCWhitney used to sell a rear main seal installation tool. It was a stainless steel mesh "Cuinese Finger Cuff" type with a long lead and a stout pull handle. You removed the oil pan, drove out the block half of the seal with a brass punch then threaded the "finger" through the vacant seal space, pressed the rope seal into the mesh and pulled like hell on the attached handle until the end come thru the slot. The conventional wisdom was to pull about a half inch through leaving a vacant spot on the inbound side. You then place the lower half of the rope seal in the oil pan slot with the same half inch protruding and slipped it into the vacant seal slot in the block. Offsetting the joint between the halves of the seal prevented leakage ot oil along the joint between the block and pan. Good luck!

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I have since been told that pulling it through is a bad idea even if you can do it. If the seal is not all the way in the slot, there is too much pressure against the spinning crank which causes it to heat up and burn and get stiff, and then of course, leak. So, my plan now is to leave the motor in the truck until the clutch is completely shot. I will do the top end gaskets and all that I can get to with out pulling the engine, which should be most of them. I can probably manage to do a half-ass paint job on the block and valve cover, drop cloth the motor and then do the engine bay, or just leave it and do a backwards paint restore. Get the outside lookin' good and then when the clutch goes pull the motor, do the engine bay and the rear seal and clutch.

 

the guy I talked to said he made a special too for driving in those rope seals so that just the right amount was sticking out.

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The Datsun Engine Manual is for the J13/J15&J16. The manual is at the engine rebuilder, but when I get it back I'll be glad to copy the index. Then you can tell me what page(s) you need copies of.

Keith

Hey Keith, I thought I responded to your offer of page copying some where but if you hadn't seen it I will ask again cuz it shure would be helpful. I starting the rebuild process and torque settings and all such stuff would be seriously helpful! I think others are in the same boat so any pages dealing with rebuilding a J13 would be awsome! Thanks Keith, Craig.

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The engine shop is almost done with the manual and then I will scan some of the pages. (The rebuild process has taken much longer than anticiapted, I have had to locate many parts and machine some MG/Morris Metro parts to replace some of the Datsun NLA parts.) I was able to locate one of the last remaining Datsun/Nissan felt front crankshaft seals. The rear rope seal was included in the gasket package I puchased from an eBay seller.

 

I would love to post some pictures, but I do not have any photos on a hosted web site. Currently, they only reside on my PC.

 

Keith

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  • 2 months later...

Hey zed1 I have been moving forward on a J13 build and have been looking for that Datsun Engine Manual or info from it since you mentioned it way back, I was hoping to inspire you to make those page copies and happy to pay for them if that would help. just let me know because it sounds like very helpful stuff in my prodjects, thanks again.

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Craig,

The engine manual is still at the motor shop.

 

I found the manual in the UK and had it shipped to the US. To this day, I have not found any copies for sale in the US. I did find one in Australia (http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=807569119&searchurl=kn%3Dj13%2Bnissan%26x%3D0%26y%3D0). I know it is pricey, but there are so few copies around, so you may want to order it if you need the info now.

Keith

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