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67 411 sss build thread


erichwaslike

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  • 2 months later...
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so made some progress on the car finally. got most of the dash put back together. still wating on the interior guy to finish the gauge pod, having it wraped in black vinyl casue it looked liek shit painted. need to put in the heater switches too. also had the winsheild installed in the car. front seats are next. need to be cleaned tho. other than missing door panels and front carpet the interior is almost done.

 

OICS

 

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will be making more progress next week hopefully

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Radio Shack used to sell black crackle paint in the spray can. A throw back to when every Ham Operator wanted his home build unit to look like a General Radio premium product. It would be just what you need for that ash tray [and might have worked for the instrument console?]

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  • 3 weeks later...

so i will be pulling the block and trans out as the head and manifolds are already out. pulled a peice of piston out today and its beat up. but i did notice my car has the aluminum oil pan with the fins on it and it aint scraped up and beat to shit. bonus! picked up my "new" motor last weekend and will be hopefully puttin the head back on and slipping it in the rails next week-ish

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so i will be pulling the block and trans out as the head and manifolds are already out. pulled a peice of piston out today and its beat up. but i did notice my car has the aluminum oil pan with the fins on it and it aint scraped up and beat to shit. bonus! picked up my "new" motor last weekend and will be hopefully puttin the head back on and slipping it in the rails next week-ish

If your new motor came from a roadster you will need the cast aluminium oil pan for additional oil cooling, cast aluminium valve cover [the roadster valve cover can't be installed on the RL411] and the intake and exhaust manifolds, including the 2 into 1 cast iron extension which aligns the exhaust with the hole in the fender. The exhaust downpipe to the premuffler / resonator is no longer available. It can be made from inch and a half muffler pipe but the side inside the wheel well must be deformed to a "D" cross section to hug the fender and clear the left front tire in tight turns. The SUs are also modified to "lay back" and clear the brake master cylinder, so the fuel bowls are at an angle to the body of the carb. Don't give away any parts until you are finished. Nissan Motor Sports makes a heavy duty oil pan gasket that you might want to look into. Good luck!

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If your new motor came from a roadster you will need the cast aluminium oil pan for additional oil cooling, cast aluminium valve cover [the roadster valve cover can't be installed on the RL411] and the intake and exhaust manifolds, including the 2 into 1 cast iron extension which aligns the exhaust with the hole in the fender. The exhaust downpipe to the premuffler / resonator is no longer available. It can be made from inch and a half muffler pipe but the side inside the wheel well must be deformed to a "D" cross section to hug the fender and clear the left front tire in tight turns. The SUs are also modified to "lay back" and clear the brake master cylinder, so the fuel bowls are at an angle to the body of the carb. Don't give away any parts until you are finished. Nissan Motor Sports makes a heavy duty oil pan gasket that you might want to look into. Good luck!

 

oh i have all the stuff to make it work in my 411. and im not getting rid of anything till i know i dont need it. all the parts on my parts car that i needed are off.

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My headpipe from the exhaust manifold to the resonator finally gave out [rust through on the horizontal run] after 44 years. No replacements. I had a muffler shop cut out the horizontal run from the resonator to the vertical bend, much heavier gauge metal was then shaped and welded on. Sounds like 1967 again! Take a good look at your headpipe while you have everything apart and good luck, we need more RL411 SSS on the road.

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  • 4 weeks later...

here is an update...

 

i got a bunch of parts from the jy from the 410 that is there

complete unmolested dash

complete heater

stock fuel filter

perfect visors with the plastic clips to hang in

rear veiw mirror

side veiw mirror

parcel tray under dash

rear c pillar trim

stock rear seat ash tray for the back of the buckets x2

 

i just finished the full resto on the heater assm today. oics below

 

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still have the sticker, thinking of having a new one made

 

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i also picked up my gauge cover/surround from my upholstery guy today and have decided to take him one of my extra dash pads and glove box doors to cover so everything matches. i think it turned out great and cant stop looking at it oics below

 

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slowly but surely its coming together

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Really good work on the instrument cluster and heater! When I reupholstered my seats, I took a small piece of vinyl cut to shape and glued it to the top of the ash tray cover [why? because I could]. The cover is embossed with horizontal ridges and "matches" the radio surround but the leather look adds a touch of class in my opinion. For what it's worth.

 

Keep us posted!

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Wow! When you first said you were having 'em upholstered, I rolled my eyes, but damn if that doesn't look fantastic. Like I need to add something to my project list.

 

Nice job on the heater. That's also on my list. Let us know if you have more SHUT-HOT labels made.

 

Pete

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well i havent had any made yet. the one im gonna get isnt gonna be a black with white lettering, it will just be a die cut of the lettering. so it will look right but not factory. lmk if u want one and i can get an extra and mail it out to u for the price of the sticker adn a stamp for the envelope

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here is an update...

 

i just finished the full resto on the heater assm today. oics below

 

still have the sticker, thinking of having a new one made

 

SNC00121.jpg

 

slowly but surely its coming together

With unlimited money you could have a replica sticker silk screened. However, take an engineer's aproach. You want it to look factory. So, take your sticker to whoever makes rubber stamps in your neighborhood and have a stamp of the "silver" part made. Spray some flat white or white epoxy refrigerator paint on a piece of glass, wait a minute to let it begin to set, wet your stamp and apply to the housing. Unless you get down on your hands and knees you will believe it's authentic! If you really must have a sticker without buying a silk screen machine, have the stamp made to replicate the black portion of the original sticker. Buy some aluminum, aluminized vinyl or stainless steel repair tape [used to cover up rust holes etc.] and stamp with the black portion. Cut out the best copy, apply to your housing and sell the rest.

 

Managers enumerate why it can't be done, engineers do it!

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With unlimited money you could have a replica sticker silk screened. However, take an engineer's aproach. You want it to look factory. So, take your sticker to whoever makes rubber stamps in your neighborhood and have a stamp of the "silver" part made. Spray some flat white or white epoxy refrigerator paint on a piece of glass, wait a minute to let it begin to set, wet your stamp and apply to the housing. Unless you get down on your hands and knees you will believe it's authentic! If you really must have a sticker without buying a silk screen machine, have the stamp made to replicate the black portion of the original sticker. Buy some aluminum, aluminized vinyl or stainless steel repair tape [used to cover up rust holes etc.] and stamp with the black portion. Cut out the best copy, apply to your housing and sell the rest.

 

Managers enumerate why it can't be done, engineers do it!

the stamp wood basically be the same as the die cut sticker. and way easier to apply. plus i cood have em made for a few of the 411 guys if they wanted and mail em out, kinda hard to mail 1 stamp to a few different ppl at once.

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so some of u doubted the wrapped gauge cover and then liked it.... so we will see wat u think of the next part. i sent the dash pad and glove box door i had that didnt have a cover on it and foam was deteriorating away to my guy and he is gonna recover them in the same leather. i am having the foam fixed on the front edge where its round and then having a peice of 1/4 thick padding put on the top part so it will be slightly padded instead of just right on the metal.

 

then i got a wild hair up my ass and decided since i have 2 dash faces to take him one and have it also padded 1/4 inch and covered in a light blue that is a lil lighter than the car and will be the same as my east and door panels. all the stock trim and such is going back on but i thought id do a lil something something to make it mine and kinda cool but keep it looking pretty stock.

 

lemme know wat u guys think of the idea and i shood have oics of it in a few weeks(takes a while cause hes a buddy and doesnt charge me shit so i sit on the back burner)

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  • 2 weeks later...

so i went to the junkyard today where i was told there was a 411 and low and behold i see a set of 411 tail lights right as i walk in. so i got em. also got the rubber peice that goes between the heater and the fresh air vent. the roof was non existent but the rest of the car seemed ok. picked thru pretty well. dash , dash top adn lower knee bumpers were ther eand in good shape.

 

here is wat i got and wat my current taillight collection looks like right now, i know some of u may want some of em but as of right now none are for sale, i have one prearranged deal to trade one for one with someone to get my cars set looking good.

 

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The lenses for the left and right RL411 tail lights can be converted from one to the other. With a very fine tooth and thin saw blade remove the center reverse lens, invert and reglue. That's it! the outside lenses, inside lenses and center lenses all have the same part number on them for the same position. The difference is in how the reverse lens is cemented in. Use acrylic cement and it will be as good as factory.

 

See later posting below, I am wrong, the center sections are unique to right or left position. Sorry for the misdirection, MikeRL411.

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u dont have to cut them. all but one of my lenses are the slip fit style. the on in the middle with the reverse still attached is the glue style and its perfect other than the glue letting go, getting reglued. and the reverse lense cant be inverted casue the base is angled and it will sit cockeyed, i tried last night, u just flip the whole thing from right to left and back.

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u dont have to cut them. all but one of my lenses are the slip fit style. the on in the middle with the reverse still attached is the glue style and its perfect other than the glue letting go, getting reglued. and the reverse lense cant be inverted casue the base is angled and it will sit cockeyed, i tried last night, u just flip the whole thing from right to left and back.

If you just flip the lens assembly the molded prisms on the reverse lens will direct the beam upward and will not properly illuminate the area to the rear.

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yes i noticed this last night while cleaning a set but if u flip the reverse lense back to right side up the bas of it is wrong then. they are wedge shaped from side to side due to the curve of the base, so it makes em sit crooked if u flip just that part back. id rather deal with light that doesnt go where its supposed to than a light that doesnt match up at the seams

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yes i noticed this last night while cleaning a set but if u flip the reverse lense back to right side up the bas of it is wrong then. they are wedge shaped from side to side due to the curve of the base, so it makes em sit crooked if u flip just that part back. id rather deal with light that doesnt go where its supposed to than a light that doesnt match up at the seams

 

Good practical choice. You are right about the taper, I take it back. Reverse lens for RH is Everwing SAE R65 EW 5080 and LH is Everwing SAE R65 EW 5081. Since this was a 1965 design per the part number it is possible that these parts were used in rear light assemblies on other makes and models. Part number search anyone?

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Good practical choice. You are right about the taper, I take it back. Reverse lens for RH is Everwing SAE R65 EW 5080 and LH is Everwing SAE R65 EW 5081. Since this was a 1965 design per the part number it is possible that these parts were used in rear light assemblies on other makes and models. Part number search anyone?

 

In the 410/411 and 411 parts manuals I have, someone wrote "Can use left for right or right for left." Guess they didn't notice that reversing them causes the light to reflect the wrong way. <_<

 

There are 8 part numbers (4 left, 4 right) with different color combinations:

 

red-white-red

amber-white-red

red-white-red without reflector

 

Did a quick Google search. Didn't find 'em used in anything but the after April-66 411's. Found some of 'em available from a place in Australia, but they are PRICEY!!!

 

About Time Spares

 

Pete

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Good practical choice. You are right about the taper, I take it back. Reverse lens for RH is Everwing SAE R65 EW 5080 and LH is Everwing SAE R65 EW 5081. Since this was a 1965 design per the part number it is possible that these parts were used in rear light assemblies on other makes and models. Part number search anyone?

A possible but probably impractical way to convert between right and left tail light would be to carefully cut [at a 45 degree angle to the lens surface?] the center reverse light section out at the bevel's front edge with a thin Dremel cut-off disc and reglue upside down with clear acrylic cement. Careful polishing after cure should make for an invisible joint and correct light distribution. I am guessing that a medium speed on the Dremel setting would cut without burning the plastic. Practice on scrap plastic advised.

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