Jump to content

Running Again.


Vethraxx

Recommended Posts

I am new to the forums and recently got my old Datsun running:

 

After letting my 1977 Datsun B210 Coupe sit in the driveway for 5 years, I got it running again. I had just rebuilt the entire engine, got it in, turned the key and it ran. (Not bad for my first rebuild). Was driving it around less than a month when the accelerator cable welded itself to the firewall. I turned off the key, pulled over and fiddled with the pedal until I THOUGHT I heard it pop loose. So I started the car, and it started up and reved to an ungoldly degree before I could turn the key off. As the engine died down there was a THUNKING in the bell housing. I thought the worse. I nursed it home, but it seemed to drive fine. The noise did not increase drastically with increased speed and was louder out of gear than in gear. I just parked it in the driveway and walked away. I was to ill to think I killed my rebuilt motor.

 

I decided after 5 years it was time to drop the tranny and find the problem. I started one last time before I started the work to listen to the problem to refresh my memory. The noise seemed to be limited to the bell housing of the transmission. You could not really feel it in the pedals, or the stick. So , I dropped the tranny.... and discovered the flywheel had come loose. I could back out all the bolts with my fingers. I tightened everything down with a torque wrench this time and put it all back together and I am back in business. I put 20 miles on it today. Had a minor electrical problem that was tarnished brass on the fuse block. Nice to have that old car up and running. It needs a good detailing.

 

PS: The reason the accelerator cable welded to the firewall, was because during the rebuild I replaced both battery cables. I noticed that the negative cable had a dual ground. A clip to the frame that pierced the cable, and then to the engine. I did not understand the significance of a dual grounded cable, until you loose the one ground you got.... and it finds another ground, your cable. The only unshielded wire that touches the frame :) I have improvised a replacement, however I WISH I had saved that little clip. Its more elegant than my solution.

Link to comment
  • Replies 18
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks for the offer. I have that I drive, one that I am stripping, and one that I towed home from some hicks yard. Raped it for parts. I got the doors, hatch, glass, AC unit, leaf springs and a carb, and all the interior facia and dashboard, seats etc. I want the one I am driving to remain stock-like. The one that I am stripping down is going to get a military make-over.

Link to comment

Just ordered my carb rebuilt kit for the stock Hitachi 306-10A carb. The one that I am currently using, the fuel mix screw, put all the way in, does not even slow the idle. :) Ooops. :)

 

There are two idle screws, the fuel mix screw and a speed screw. The speed screw is located towards the back of your Hitachi. I prefer a slow screw :P.

Link to comment

I went to the local Nissan dealer and they managed to locate B210 hood hinge seals in LA. I will be getting those on Monday. I am getting a lot of water in the car from the front. At first they said the parts were no longer available, so I got my panel fasteners from them. When I arrived they said they had good news and found the seals. There is a pair on Ebay but they want like 20 bucks just for 2. I am getting 4 for less than 10 dollars. :)

Link to comment

This car is coming along for sitting for 5 years. Heard an odd rattle and an occasional thud coming from the engine. Kept going through my head what could it be, and something sparked... I could not remember putting on the nuts for the motor mount posts. Sure as shit, one side of the motor was off it's mount. Color me stupid on that one. Found a couple nuts that work. Don't know where the originals went. Oh well. A nut is a nut.

 

I got 4 new speakers for the B210. 5x7s for the door panels, they barely fit. For the back I got 4x6s. Now ... the stereo that came with the car when I bought it... as a pos. It has a short in it that you just have to shake the unit to get sound for a few moments untill you hit a bump. There is rust on it etc from being idle so long. I have ordered a new one. When I was young, there was only one wire to the one factory speaker in the dash to your am/fm unit. Now it's like a damn octopus when you look at the back of a stereo. I am a little out of the loop on how it all ties together. When I get the new one I am just going to do a wire by wire swap. Here is my question will this stereo. http://tinyurl.com/2dmmmlb power this tube subwoofer http://tinyurl.com/23uqx8c without an additional amp being required? I know it's a cheapy, but I only want a little extra thump. I don't want to pop the heads off cattle as I drive through Snohomish.

Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.