Quick head swap write up

[Skib]

ok so heres a quciky guide to swapping an L series head.

 

 

rotate your motor TDC.

 

your going to want to remove your intake, exhaust, cam cover, and other assorted hoses ect and get them out of the way

 

 

 

 

then you can put your timing chain tensioner tool in. make sure its all the way in, cuz dropping the tensioner sucks.

once its in you can pull the front cam bolt (19mm) and drop the cam sprocket out of the way.

its a good idea to mark a link and the part if the sprocket where it goes with a paint pen

so you can get it all on there and lined up with the dowel pin on the front of the cam the first time

 

 

 

 

some parts stores carry a plastic version of the tool, or you can make your own :D

 

 

for the head bolts using a regular "L" shaped allen wrench is a terrible and very hard idea :rofl: Iv broken my 10mm trying

 

but thats why you need one of these in 10mm (still prob going to need and impact or breaker bar)

 

 

when removing the head make sure you not only remove the 10 allen head bolts

but also the two small 10mm bolts on the front of the head bolting it to the front cover

 

 

 

now that your heads pulled your going to need to scrape all that old head gasket off.

a sharp razor blade works for me, make sure you get ALL of it tho.

 

* Scrap head surface absolutely clean. Use your fingertips to feel that all traces, even the slightest trace of old gasket has been removed

* Prep the block face and head face by removing all oil residue. A spray can of ether (starting fluid) works well, and some lint-free cloths

* Chase the head bolt thread holes. Remove all water, grime, grease etc that is in the bolt holes. You can use a thread Tap, or the Ratsun way is to use an old headbolt with a groove cut along the threads. I use a small vacuum hose to blow gunk out of the holes.

 

 

 

 

then just set your new gasket on and drop the new head on making sure its sitting flat and lined up with the dowel pins in the block.

 

 

 

 

now put your head bolts back and in just thread em in

 

 

the head bolts need to be tightened down in order at 60ft lbs tq

 

(and dont forget to put the two small 10mm bolts back in the front!)

 

now that your heads on put your timing chain sprocket back on the chain (this is where your paint mark comes in) and put it back up on the front of the cam and bolt it down.

you can now remove your timing chain tensioner tool.

 

 

now your head is swapped and you can start putting all your crap back on it :rofl:

 

[hang_510]

1. drain the cooling system.

 

 

a quciky guied

 

:rofl: :P

 

its a good idea to mark a link and the part if the sprocket where it goes with a paint pen

setting it @ TDC is a better idea before starting. ;)

[Skib]

lol sorry, I wrote that at 3am and Im sick as fuck :P missed a few things, Ill go back and edit

 

and I always mark the sprocket even at TDC just so I get it on the chain strait the first time and dont have to screw around with lining the dowel up

[ggzilla]

Nice write up.

 

I would add as critical necessary:

* Scrap head surface absolutely clean. Use your fingertips to feel that all traces, even the slightest trace of old gasket has been removed

* Prep the block face and head face by removing all oil residue. A spray can of ether (starting fluid) works well, and some lint-free cloths

* Chase the head bolt thread holes. Remove all water, grime, grease etc that is in the bolt holes. You can use a thread Tap, or the Ratsun way is to use an old headbolt with a groove cut along the threads. I use a small vacuum hose to blow gunk out of the holes.

[I'm BLUE]

Nice write up.

 

I would add as critical necessary:

* Scrap head surface absolutely clean. Use your fingertips to feel that all traces, even the slightest trace of old gasket has been removed

* Use a shop vacuum to suck debris while scraping block and head gasket surfaces to avoid debris falling in oil gallery holes , cylinders , etc...

* Prep the block face and head face by removing all oil residue. A spray can of ether (starting fluid) works well, and some lint-free cloths

* Chase the head bolt thread holes. Remove all water, grime, grease etc that is in the bolt holes. You can use a thread Tap, or the Ratsun way is to use an old headbolt with a groove cut along the threads. I use a small vacuum hose to blow gunk out of the holes.

[Skib]

good addition ggzilla :P added

[motavated]

OHH MY F GOD! Thanks for that diagram on building that tension retainer. I looked everywhere!!! EVERYWHERE for a idea or something. THANKS!!!!

[izzo]

OHH MY F GOD! Thanks for that diagram on building that tension retainer. I looked everywhere!!! EVERYWHERE for a idea or something. THANKS!!!!

 

 

You looked everywhere? haha, its in the chiltons manuals for these motors, its on ratsun, its been covered, and they sell these things for 4 bucks at autozone :rofl:

 

Nice write up skib!

[SHAMUS'WAGON]

Thanks for the write up. Perfect timing, I'm doing that this weekend.

[Dat620guy]

Nice writeup Skib. Is she running yet?

[Dat620guy]

Nice writeup Skib. Is she running yet?

[Phixius]

You looked everywhere? haha, its in the chiltons manuals for these motors, its on ratsun, its been covered, and they sell these things for 4 bucks at autozone :rofl:

 

Nice write up skib!

 

Yes, and if your doing this on a whim, like I did, I made this out of a 2x4 and a claw hammer and some speaker wire... no special tools needed... It doesnt need to be absolutely persise, just enough to hold the tensioner in...

[ariascarlos1990]

I think that was my problem. I made the tensioner retainer to fat and not long enough. :P

[hang_510]

I made this out of a 2x4 and a claw hammer

the long handle on mine worked perfect!

[banzai510(hainz)]

Be sure to mark the chain as mentioned above.

another thing is when trying to put the sprocket back on. if might seen hard to get it up on the dowel and center part of the cam. What I suggest is move the cam left or right to get slack in one side to help raise the sprocket up. PLus dont bang on it too hard as it may move the cam backwards in the cam tower.This making it harder to put the spocket on.

 

If you go to the CSK website and enter a datsun L series model. then go to tools they have L series timming chain tools for 5$ apc. buy a bunch to make up for the shipping and sell them or give them away.

[jun]

This is perfect! I need to replace my head gasket soon and this is exactly what I needed. Thanks yo.

[fastdadd]

i would be curios to see if you 1/4 mile times are now

[izzo]

Yes, and if your doing this on a whim, like I did, I made this out of a 2x4 and a claw hammer and some speaker wire... no special tools needed... It doesnt need to be absolutely persise, just enough to hold the tensioner in...

 

 

Very nice! The book says about the same thing, i think 1 1/4 on one end, and 1" on the other, about 10" long with a rope/twine or w/e to pull it back out. I ended up just buying one and throwing it in my toolbox. haven't had to use it yet tho.

[Skib]

Yes, and if your doing this on a whim, like I did, I made this out of a 2x4 and a claw hammer and some speaker wire...

 

 

I used a skill saw :rofl:

 

 

do not recoment speaker wire tho.

 

Iv used it cuz it was the first thing I saw and it breaks fast :blink: I used metal bailing wire on mine.

 

I also cut my 2x4 in half so its only about as thick as the chain itself.

[mike]

For a chain tool you can also use a chunk of garden hose about 2 to 2 1/2 feet long. Fold it in half and shove the fold end down between the chain. I trim it so that both ends are about 1-2" below the cam sprocket when its pushed all the way in. I use the handle of a large screwdriver to make sure its all the way down and tight. When youre done if you cant pull it out by hand a pair of vicegrips or a pair of channel locks works well.

 

Ive done more headgaskets than I care to think about, Ive always used a chunk of hose and Ive never had a tensioner pop free.

 

This wasnt my idea... it was on Ratsun way back when I signed up.

 

The pics are small for some reason... but the length gives you an idea of what you need if youve got a 620.

 

 

 

[MicroMachinery]

 

 

 

Sorry, did you paint half your block blue while the head was off? .. or am I just seeing things...

[Skib]

Sorry, did you paint half your block blue while the head was off? .. or am I just seeing things...

 

 

 

ya i gave the block a half ass shot of blue

[motavated]

So no lube on the head bolts? I read the factory manual and it does not state anything. I will just chaise the threads and install...

[Skib]

thats what I do

[jun]

Interesting. I suppose the block is fairly accessible while the head and the stuff attached to it are out of the bay. Might have to spray my block when I do my head gasket, it's 2 different colors from the PO.