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How to Prime oil pump on a new L motor before first start up


motavated

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The first thing you have to do is have a complete long block assembled. The chain has to be in place correctly. The timing chain installed. The front pulley installed and also the oil pan and gaskets... It pretty much has to look like this...

2010-08-26_192556.jpg

 

Almost ready to be installed...

 

What you do before installing the pump is you have to have an extra oil pump shaft. YOU HAVE to have the correct shaft for your engine. L18 are not the same as L20b's and so on.... That is IMPORTANT!!!!

 

Once you have your correct "extra" shaft you will do this mod....

ass.jpg

 

You will grind the teeth smoooooooth!!!!! ALLL THE WAY SMOOTH... That is the shaft needed to prime your oil pump and oil system...

 

Once you have that everything is EAZY!

 

You install your shaft and pump and tighten all the bolts... You also add you oil, your oil filter and so on... Once the pan is well sealed and the oil pan bolt is in place tight. You poor oil and BAM! Your ready to prime your engine.

 

What I noticed is you can use a 12mm socket to turn the shaft...

 

What I used was this!

IMG_7715.jpg

It has the 12mm socket installed and the 12mm socket is placed it over this.

IMG_7718.jpg

 

Once everything is in place. Now you can spin your shaft counter clock wise!!!!! You spin that shaft until you see oil coming out of the camshaft....

 

Then you take out your modded shaft. Install your regular shaft correctly and your ready to roll...

 

I take no responsibility if you make a mistake.... This is a general idea on how I prime my oil on a new l series engine. I might of left a few steps out. So its up to you to perfect this idea....

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Very inventive, using a ground down pump shaft.

 

I just filled a sprayer(kind used for putting bug-spray, weed killer, etc..) w/ oil, connected a brass nipple to where the oil pressure switch threads into the block, and pressurized that way. Either way would work. Nice job!

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If you heat the gear can be hammered off the spindle shaft. I used an old dizzy shaft with a piece of rubber hose clamped on and a piece of rod clamped in the other end. Chuck the rod into a drill and away you go. The rubbed hose acts like a U joint.

 

Doing by hand is something I never thought of. :D The oil made a squeaking sound as it came out the holes in the valve train. It was a Z24 so different from the L.

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  • 3 years later...

Very inventive, using a ground down pump shaft.

 

I just filled a sprayer(kind used for putting bug-spray, weed killer, etc..) w/ oil, connected a brass nipple to where the oil pressure switch threads into the block, and pressurized that way. Either way would work. Nice job!

Is this Legit? Seems like a great way to do it.

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I would never not prime a fresh motor.

 

I used a long piece of round steel, about 3/16ths thick, heated the end and smashed it on my driveway to flatten it. Installed pump with out shaft. Then I chuck the metal in my drill and shoved it down the dizzy hole. Went until I saw oil coming out of the cam shaft.

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Pouring a little oil into the pump will make the pump prime faster.

I used a press to remove the gear from an old distributor drive, and an old distributor with the guts removed, to go between the drill, and pump drive spindle.

 

Removing the pump will spill oil.  Have an extra oil pump gasket.  You can get individual oil pump at your Nissan dealer.

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Pouring a little oil into the pump will make the pump prime faster.

I used a press to remove the gear from an old distributor drive, and an old distributor with the guts removed, to go between the drill, and pump drive spindle.

 

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This is what I did but will use a steel rod next time. It primed in seconds and made gurgling sounds.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had extra gaskets. Seemed silly to prime everything, then pull the pump out draining oil. But I did just that and was successful. I swear this website has nearly every step of every service. But the digging can be arduous at times.

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  • 5 months later...

Getting close to starting our L20b and ran a search on engine warm up/break in and ran into this.  I agree with Tr8er, you can find everything you need here on Ratsun.  Even stuff that you really didn't want to do like take you oil pump and dizzy off again.  But, after dwelling on it for a week I decided I had better and now I am glad I did.  Here is what I made to do it.

oil%20pump%20prime%20025_zpsywmeiqbo.jpg

it indeed does gurgle a bunch, heard oil running into the oil filter then out of the cam it came.  So I think we will start this up on Easter,  Right, It has Risen!!

 

Thanks for the tips!  So even if the enginer does not fire I at least know the oil pump will not get fried.

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  • 7 months later...

"YOU HAVE to have the correct shaft for your engine. L18 are not the same as L20b's and so on..."

 

 

Is this correct ? I'm almost done with my l20b and I wanna make sure if it's true or not. I have 3 shafts. L16 l18 and l28 they're all the same.

Same amount of teeth and same length

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I have been building these motors for 30+ years.  Doing it your suggested way is too time consuming.   Install the oil pump and dist shaft, be sure the OP has some ass'y lube in it, twist it a few times to coat the gears.   Install the motor, hook up everything, leave the spark plugs out and the valve cover off; spin the motor with a remote starter switch until oil squirts out of the cam.  Button the motor up, if you have a mechanical fuel pump, the carb(s) now are full.  NOW turn it over with the ign switch, it should start up and show OP.

 

NO dry starts, no cranking the motor for a long time.  AND it's fun to see the oil squirt!

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