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Ka dohc head on l20b


RAlly_DatoB210

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I definitely can't run a belt. The ka has 2 oil returns in the back of the head and one must be plugged because the L20b block has a coolant port there. That means the oil must have another route out the front of the motor. I also don't have the capabilities to make gears or pullies from scratch. I wish I did

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I figured it out. I am using A stock left ka guide that I re arched. I don't want to post pics and give away the answer because someone else gave it to me. I now need to have a custom gear madr that won't break. It also looks like the ka lower gear needs to be spaced away from the crank 2mm. The nice thing about the ka guides is the plastic comes off the metal

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I'm thinking if I need a custom sprocket made I should just have it made 2mm longer so I dont need a spacer. When you bore the stock ka gear from 30mm to 35mm it becomes very thin when the keyway is. I also need to get the motor at TDC and put a degree wheel on the cams to see if there in the correct place. If not I'll need to move the keyway on the crank gear.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't work on this motor much but I will figure everything out and hopefully hit higher hp that most have ever seen from a L series block. After I'm finished I will post all the details of my build and not hide anything. I hope that with the information I learn we can all gain something. Tonight I measures the lower gear to see how far off the keyway is. It was a very rough measurement and I will take another but it looks like it's off 7 degrees. It also looks like I am having a gear laser cut from 4130 and then machining the sides, face, and bore on a lathe. After that I will broach the keyway. If anyone has made there own gear before or can make me a gear let me know. I am open to all suggestions.

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I'm thinking if I need a custom sprocket made I should just have it made 2mm longer so I dont need a spacer. When you bore the stock ka gear from 30mm to 35mm it becomes very thin when the keyway is. I also need to get the motor at TDC and put a degree wheel on the cams to see if there in the correct place. If not I'll need to move the keyway on the crank gear.

Why not use a L series bottom sprocket??? It should have the same 20 teeth and the top KA is 40 so the 2:1 is preserved.

 

 

Tonight I measures the lower gear to see how far off the keyway is. It was a very rough measurement and I will take another but it looks like it's off 7 degrees. It also looks like I am having a gear laser cut from 4130 and then machining the sides, face, and bore on a lathe. After that I will broach the keyway. If anyone has made there own gear before or can make me a gear let me know. I am open to all suggestions.

Why move the key??? Just move the chain one tooth on the upper cam sprocket. There are 40 teeth. So in 360 degrees that's 9 degrees per tooth or 4.5 degrees crank.

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Ok well I thought there would be better adjustable gears out there but not variable like a belt setup. Only repinned gears. So sense I have to make a sprocket anyways I will just cut the keyway 3 degrees to the left looking at the front of the motor (retarded) and move the chain on the upper sprocket over 1 tooth. Thanks datzenmike great idea.

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Did not know about the 18 /36 tooth. The KA24E is similar to the L and Z series at 20/40 and was going by that. Just beware there are crank and cam degrees and not mix them up.

 

 

 

motorKA24DEa.jpg

How is the larger upper sprocket at the back connected to the smaller cam chain sprocket in the front? If a keyway why not cut several slots so you can adjust +- several degrees just like the chain stretch adjustment holes on L and Z series cam sprockets? Probably easier than doing the crank and easier to get at later.

 

Also the smaller cam could be moved one tooth to split the 10 degrees in half? Or perhaps each cam sprocket?

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Not that I have any first hand knowledge on this project, but I remember speaking to a guy in the US on a long ago dead fourm, who I think was the first to do this with the DE head and I might have an idea for a source for the crank sprocket, but as I recall he took some links out of the chain.

 

I have all the pieces i've been collecting for my 2.1 KA/L hybrid project sitting in my garage except for that one, but I'm a ways away from that project as I'm building a SR20DET right now and cant afford both projects.

 

Blackmarkit; I'd prefer not to post the sprocket info for a similar reason as your guide info, but as I'm VERY interested in your results you can PM me and I will share, if it works then perhaps a mod can hide your build thread in a members only section or something.

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  • 1 year later...

Well it's been a slow process but I just got a gear 2 days ago. I been trying so hard for someone to cut this gear but no one wants to cut one gear that will probably needs changes. But I got this gear cut by a crazy smart engineer with a cnc mill in his garage and was willing to double check my drawings and work with me to gets this things dialed. So thankful. Hopefully I'll one running in a couple months.

<a href="http://s202.photobucket.com/user/markkonschak/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-11/B7548083-CF41-41A3-9597-21802DAFB04A_zpsin4jdwek.jpg.html"target="_blank"><img src="http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa218/markkonschak/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-11/B7548083-CF41-41A3-9597-21802DAFB04A_zpsin4jdwek.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo B7548083-CF41-41A3-9597-21802DAFB04A_zpsin4jdwek.jpg"/></a>

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fucking rights, I was waiting for an update on this. I will be following. my concern is if you upp the valvetrain to handle 10000+ rpm, is a single row chain going to survive that?

if your gear makes it, ill buy a couple..

 

then ill be looking for an l18 block, l16 crank, and a kade head... ;)

 

then find something super light to put it in

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