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Feng Shui (The 510 Experiment)


Josh K.

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I needed to hook my MAP sensor up somewhere..... I decided I would make a block off plate where all the Idle Control junk went (Not running idle controls) in the end of the plenum. I'll drill and tap 3/8"NPT, connect a hose to the firewall where I'll have a T manifold bolted to the back side (inside) of the firewall. One side will run to the MAP sensor and the other to the boost gauge.

 

Here's the plenum end:

 

PLATE2_zpswcjqla4b.jpg

 

Here's the plate I whipped up:

 

PLATE1_zpsuulifeue.png

 

I wanted a direct clean source. I think this will work.

 

I also started planning my crankcase ventilation. I'm gonna use the stock breather box like the one below. I'm going to install a port in the box and run a vac line into the cabin to a valve that connects to my boost gauge. This way I can monitor the crankcase pressure whenever I want.:

 

BOX_zps5rzvamgc.png

 

I'll run it through a check valve and into my catch can. I might make a new one with a reed valve to eliminate the check valve.

 

I'm going to use this Vibrant slash pipe in my exhaust to pull vacuum:

 

TUBE_zpssal2qaxv.png

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Build a venturi in the exhaust before the E-vac port, ( We called this system "pan vac" in the old days) It will pull more vacuum. Also put a one way check valve on the line from the crankcase to the E-vac, at low rpm you don't want any exhaust flowing into the crankcase. When we used this system, we could shut off an engine, let it sit for like 10 min, then pull the dip stick ,and the crankcase would still have vacuum it. To use this system efficiently, the motor must be tight, good seals and low leak down. We used total-seal rings (2 piece) for the lowest leak down. 

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Build a venturi in the exhaust before the E-vac port, ( We called this system "pan vac" in the old days) It will pull more vacuum. Also put a one way check valve on the line from the crankcase to the E-vac, at low rpm you don't want any exhaust flowing into the crankcase. When we used this system, we could shut off an engine, let it sit for like 10 min, then pull the dip stick ,and the crankcase would still have vacuum it. To use this system efficiently, the motor must be tight, good seals and low leak down. We used total-seal rings (2 piece) for the lowest leak down. 

 

 

I'm not sure what you mean by building a venturi into the exhaust? Can you provide a sketch?

 

Thanks,

 

-Josh

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No, like this;

 

file_zpsvjolkx53.jpg Not to scale

 

Sorry for the quick poor drawing, but gets the idea across. Personally, I would not use the pre made one E-vac one, with your skills I would make my own. The venturi speeds up the air flow, creats a low pressure area on the backside of the venturi. We would use a EGR valve for the check valve ( can handle the heat). Hope this helps.

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So after much thought, talking with some engineers and digging into the depths of google I decided to go with the Vibrant E-Vac system. Reason being is it actually creates it own Venturi effect with little restriction. To make my own internal venturi I would have to kill my exhaust flow from 3" to a theoretical 2.25" exhaust.

 

VENTURI_zpsnlm7t2jj.png

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