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Feng Shui (The 510 Experiment)

Josh K.

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Just picked up my new project, probably familiar to someone on here as it has a Ratsun sticker and Ratsun welded on the exhaust pipe.....

So far I replaced the trunk with a steely, replaced the hood with a steely, installed the hood latch setup, replaced the wiper motor (High wasn't working), replaced the outer window wipers and tightened up a few things. It's nice having a parts car....

Today I'll pick up the new 280zx inner tie rod ends for the T/C Rods. I believe thats whats on there now (all worn to hell and clunking), if not I'll make them fit.

Anyone know the history of this car? From what I'm told it was an scca car (still rems of the cage in there). A guy bought it from Seattle, drove it to Eugene, replaced the KA24DE with a 107K motor, put new tires on it and traded it to the fellow I bought it from...

One thing I need to fix is when the Electric Radiator fan is "on" and I turn the key "off" its like the fuel pump shuts off, then the power slowly drains out of the ignition/ecu/radio until there's no power left, then a relay screams for a while and dies out.... This only happens when the fan is on and the key is turned off. No fan and it shuts down like it should. I'll have to dig into the wiring, just wondering if anyone had any ideas.


This is what it used to look like.


This is when I got it.


Edited by Josh K.
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The fan acts like a generator when it's spooling down. I have the same thing with the fan I kludged onto my '81- the fan, being hooked into the ignition circuit, ends up powering the circuit until the fan stops turning. Even as little as 5-6V will still keep the ignition live.


The solution is to run the fan off a different circuit. Maybe even better (if it's controlled by a temperature switch) is to leave it "live" all the time so it runs after you've shut off the engine (much like modern cars do).


Or power the fan via a relay instead of direct wired to the ignition.

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That makes sense, I like the idea of the fan staying on after the key is off.



Thanks, I'm sure they'll be dropping in here soon then. It's always nice to be able to talk to the people that built the car. The swap was definitely well executed.



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Well today I replaced the T/C Rods. I took some 280zx Inner tie rods, 3/4" 1018 steel round bar (tapped M14x1.5 on one end, Drilled 0.625" on the other), a stock T/C rod cut to length, some 1/4" Plate with a 0.625" Hole, and a 3.0" Dia tube x0.750" long x 0.250" wall.


My goal was to replace the tired t/c rods (already had inner tie rods welded on but worn as hell). I wanted to also try and level the t/c rods and make a new pocket so the pivot point would remain same as the stock bushing style. This is what the 3.0" tubing was for as I needed to move the mounting point for the tie rod end forward 3/4".



Here's my work. The welds are strong but ugly, definitely looks better in person......









the hole....




new hole...










Concrete slab is sloped, t/c rod is actually level now.....





Years ago I made a few Air Filter Adapters out of UHMW for my SR20DET, for some reason I have been dragging one around with me.... Today I pulled the MAF and didn't like that the air filter was offset from the maf. A light bulb went off.... sure enough that old adapter fits and center the filter like it should.......









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I am looking for a in-line temperature switch to controll my 2 electric fans...... .. .


I haven't installed it yet, but I bought this radiator probe fan controller kit. My hot-rod buddies seem to have good luck with them, so I'm gonna give it a whirl soon.




As I recall, it turns the fan on at 185 degrees and off at 165 degrees.

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  • 2 weeks later...

And the saga continues....... The exhaust smell was killing me, the noise from the backseat sounded like the car was going to fall apart. Time for an interior strip down and repair!


What did I find? Well first of all, thanks to whoever had the bright idea of half assing everything and then putting down sound deadening mat. You could've waited and done the car right before sealing its fate. One day I will have to remove this stuff and I'm not looking forward to it...


The shifter boot/seal area will have to be totally redone, the raised up section underneath the throttle pedal will have to be cutout and redone along with the exhaust underneath it (a little dangerous to have a 2" higher section of floorboard where your throttle/brake foot goes....). Some nice guy used 1" long self tapping sheet metal screws to screw everything through the floor, including carpet... The front seats were falling through the floor due to the very well thought out back seat mounts (more on this later)....


Here's the floor after the well screwed down carpet came out. You can see the custom shift boot in the background...






Here's what I found behind the back seat. Aluminum foil rattles quite nicely.....






Removed the "tin can".






My old dime became my parts car,I guess it will live on in a new car....






Here she is all back to stock'ish form, definitely could be a nicer install but I don't claim to be a body man!





All thats left is fix the tank sending unit, cut speaker holes, re-upholster back window tray, seal the whole back section with plastic to isolate from trunk,install new carpet..... Then off to the wrecking yard to cut the transmission tunnel/boot section out of a 240sx. I'm modding a after market tach into my old white needle gauge cluster. Next on the list is slot rear cross member and install a subie lsd,maybe cv's.


Thanks for looking!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Guys, was on vacation for a week but got some work done today....



Currently I'm tackling the seat mounts. Whoever put the seats in used a long ass bolt, a piece of tubing and bolted it through the floor. This led to the seat pushing the tubing through the floor and tweaking the floor. I went back to my parts car and cut out the front mounts to use as rear mounts. I again want to thank the person who drilled a million holes and then put the sound mat down, today I started scraping the crap out! I have to also cutout where the racing buckets mounted on the front to make it like it was stock.








Next on the list is the other seat mount and then the stupid raised floor section on the drivers side. back to the parts car....




After this is done.... I have to finish scraping the sound mat, weld all the holes, graft the 240sx shift tunnel section, move the fuel line out of the cockpit and under the car along with the battery cable. also relocate ECU under the dash. Then its time to paint the floor, insulate, new carpet and shift console!!

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