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My '76 710 Goon


datzenmike

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Went on an 1,200 mile trip. Transmission lost about 400ml over 600 miles. Severe noise from rear when coasting. Stops if you give any gas or let off so the vehicle speed turns the engine. I notice when backing up and rolling to a stop it growls too.  

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If it wasn't losing a quart every 1500 miles, I'd say dose it with moly gear additive and see if it quiets down, remarkable stuff.

Since it's leaking (assume from the same rear seal that was just replaced) I'd suspect the last bearing is allowing the shaft to oscillate a tiny bit in the seal so it can't effectively seal anymore.

Chances are you've already got a replacement that's ready, or can be ready to swap out, and the existing one can be yellow tagged.

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I filled it last summer and hardly drove it. This year I looked and the seal area was wet and it was down almost a liter of the two it can hold. Topped it up, replaced the seal and after about 600 miles this year it was down 400ml of the 2000 when full. So something is fucked and I have a 280zx tail laying around. I'll pull the transmission and swap it. I really like this transmission... '85 S12 CA18ET wide ratio 5 speed with L front case. 

 

 

 

I'm confident the noise is well to the rear over my shoulder. The rearmost part of the transmission is the shifter which is more or less by my knee. I pulled the axles out yesterday. This morning I found my two spare H-165 axles from a 710 goon. These two bearings are smooth to turn and seem to have less play in them. I just re-did the wheel cylinder on one side and both sets of shoes. These will all have to be swapped to the 'new' axles.

 

Then take for a drive. If the rattle growl isn't fixed then it has to be the differential. This is a shitty way to find out but doesn't cost anything and the axles would have to come out anyway.. I really like this 4:11 differential with the wide ratio transmission. It really revs quick. No problem going around a corner in town in 3rd. Forth and fifth in town though fifth is for steady speeds. If the differential is noisy then must be a bearing. I have a spare 3:70 for parts. Or have the 4:11 rebuilt. Worth the cost.

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All adjusters, wheel cylinders and shoes swapped onto the other axles. Ordered and installed new seals for the axle tube. One pre made brake line as the one was buggered getting it off. Axles in and ready to bleed the brakes. Hope this works but I don't know.... the original axle bearings are not obviously bad. Wish they were.

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Finally got the brakes bled. ALWAYS BLEED THE MASTER FIRST. I guess the fluid siphoned out over the days it's been sitting. The reservoir looked kind of low and by the time I got around to bleeding the lines must have been full but barely a dribble and the vacuum pump didn't help. After two days I opened the rear bleeder on the master and nothing came out. Took two full pumps to get anything, after the 3rd I closed it and a quick couple of pumps on each rear wheel and the pedal is like stepping on a brick now.

 

Top up the transmission while it's in the air and take it out on the highway to see if it was a wheel bearing or (shudder) a differential bearing.

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  • 1 year later...

Time for update. Car still has slight growl so must be in the differential not wheel bearings. It's just annoying. Car is parked on front lawn since 2020 with one or two drives down the block to lubricate everything. Had to move it yesterday so some work can be done on the property while I'm away. Had to pull cover off and blow up flat tire. Several squirts of gas from Windex bottle into each carburetor and vroom vroom. Hasn't moved since last fall and hasn't run this year. Still has 1/8 tank of 2020 gas in it.

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If it's just a slight growl, get a bottle of moly gear additive, put that in and jack up a wheel and let it run in place to stir it up for a while.

For tires that go flat from sitting, that's most likely rust on the bead, either from rain or cat marking.  Last one I had I aired it up, sprayed the bead with soapy water and took an air hammer with a pulley driver and went around the leaking areas.  When the rusty bubbles stopped, it stayed aired up.

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It is quiet when there is any load on it such as accelerating or slowing down, but right at the peak in between where you let off the gas just enough and the drive line is slack and roll along there is a slight growl. It's my 4.11 and will never find another. 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Have a set of 280zx struts from an '81. Pretty sure it was an '81 but had 10th anniversary graphics on the fenders. So I guess they were swapped. Had the Iron cross mags but one was badly curb fucked. I think someone did a brake job shortly before it was parked, rotor is smooth and thick and so are the pads. I'm going to clean them up, trim off the bottom perches and grind down the weld. Then they are ready for sale to someone who wants to lower their Datsun 510, 610, 710, 1200, B-210, 210, S10, S110 and A10. There may be others. 

 

JSWD92k.jpg

 

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I braced the top hat against a table leg and undid the nut. The spring is only compressed 2" so can only accelerate that distance. When it separated, the mass of the strut jumped about 6", big deal. The rest was just disassembly. Bearings look good, lots of clean fresh grease on spindle. Splash guards in very good shape. Unfortunately the oil filled dampers were gone, (some people 🙄) and replaced with generic cartridges that could be compressed 1/2 way with arms outstretched. When extending the cartridge, there is gurgling sounds so they are done.

 

Tomorrow I'll bike into town and order the grease seals for the back side of the hubs. The rest is rust removal and painting. All nuts and bolts are in a vinegar bath.

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Seals ordered.

 

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Bearings were very good as are the inner races. Hub was packed with clean uncontaminated grease

 

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Got all the old grease out. One set are in vinegar bath, so are the inner splash guards and all the hardware.

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

 

Everything cleaned quite well including all the fasteners. Vinegar works but I think that the more it's used the weaker it gets. I had a lot of large parts and a black crust formed on the surface. Anyway I switched to electrolysis and any crap plates onto the sacrificial anode. 

 

I painted the strut tubes, splash shields and the hubs. The calipers I cleaned by hand and the slides are greased (not by me) and free to move. The pads are like new and at least a cm thick, more like 1/2". Haven't decided to paint them, I want to sell these and the new owner might not like the color. They can choose to or not.

 

Ahhh the zen of strut/hub assembly. Can't rush this, have to be in the zone, time just right, everything ready, new rear grease seals, fresh HP wheel bearing grease. All chores done and no excuse, my mind is clear... and tomorrow the weather changes.

 

Lightly scotch-brite the seal surface to remove any old seal rubber, if any.

 

New stainless splash guard fasteners. The old ones were a bitch.

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Fill the hub cavity with fresh wheel bearing grease

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Pack the clean bearings the old fashioned way

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Install new grease seals.... after the rear bearing is in of course, and grease the lips so it doesn't start dry.

 

Rotors torqued to 35, put hub on spindle.

 

Install washer and nut. Torque to 18-22 ft lbs., spin hub in both directions and check torque and tighten. Loosen 60 degrees and the preload is set, and install NEW cotter pin.

 

Fill dust cap with grease, make sure tiny O ring is in place and hammer on protecting it with a wooden block. 

 

Tighten caliper bolts to 65.

 

I put the knuckle bolts in the holes to keep rust at bay.

 

 

 

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Right now they are a flat gray color with some rusty areas. Definitely not 'yellow'. The pop on/off dust covers for the wheel nut are definitely showing their cadmium coating still. The splash shields when stripped looked like they were galvanized? Calipers must have had something on them or they would be like a brake drum.

 

I did paint my Maxima calipers. I have factory alloy rims so the do show through a bit. Black would defeat that. Yellow is bright.

 

iu2VvTA.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

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