My '76 710 Goon

[Easygoingjc]

Motorcycle carbs use a calibrated fuel volume vs orfice diameter used in cars carbs

If it was recommended to use a #180 jet for L18 it may have ment to use a jet that flows 180cc of fuel per minute.

 

By drilling it 1.8mm to may be why you are running fat at WOT. Being 10 years ago they were prolly just plug chopping.

 

With your fuel/air gauge you have a huge advatage now.

 

Nothing like a good test and tune. Good luck

[Easygoingjc]

I forgot to mention 10 years ago fuel was alot different. Or least it is here with a mix of ethanol possibly up to 10% without labeling. 

In my experience we would run colder plugs on and older engine, sometimes by two temp ranges.

[datzenmike]

What I figured too. No mention of fuel ratios. Someone assumed a larger displacement needs more gas I guess. Going larger was totally wrong I see. Don't get me wrong at 9.6 it is howling. At 3K and up, no matter the load on the engine the velocity stacks start to make individual popping noise that becomes a very loud groan louder than the exhaust. Ever hear a Quadrajet moan? ... well not exactly like that but you know a lot of air is moving in pulses. It's addicting! Over rich runs fine but wastes gas. After a light cruise the plugs are clean but they have had time to self clean.

 

I expect that I have gotten too small and the reading are in the 13s. Then I can increase slightly and 'sneak up on it'. Would like to see high 12 at WOT above 4K.

 

This will likely throw the above idle and mid range off and I'll have to raise the needles again, but that's easy.

[datzenmike]

OK..... 1.18mm installed and wow that's not good. idle mix is close enough but it rises when ever the gas is pushed. I'll try moving the needles higher to make it richer but 125 or 130 might be better.

 

 

While it would idle reasonably well in the high 17s it sure doesn't like it when there's a load.

[datzenmike]

 

Drilled out 4 more jets so they'll be ready when I am. Maybe on the weekend. Slowly closing in on it. Will try raising the needles first but that's an easy job. If nothing I'll use these 1.3mm jets.

[Easygoingjc]

The needle adjustment shouldn't affect WOT over 4k. Just the makes the transition into the primary circuit sooner, the higher the needle setting. Once that WOT mix is dead on then the needle should be adjusted for a smooth transition and cruising mix. May seem backwards but jet size affects transition richness aswell. Throw a bigger jet in there and see how she runs. I would also like to suggest air temp may be causing the leaner numbers. Cold air is denser and now needs more fuel than hot summer temps.

[datzenmike]

Thanks. That's my take on it. It does exactly that. Off idle goes lean right away and stays there . I really didn't hold it much over 3K as it was , well alarming. Was hoping to raise the richness level above idle and hope the top end would be OK. It's not really a big job to try it. Time is short, days shorter and don't feel like doing anything after work.

 

Yes, I will go right to the 1.3mm. The 1.4 was good but a bit rich (mid 11s) over 4k. I thought I could raise that a bit and must have gone overboard.

 

It's cooler but not cold yet out here on the wet coast. Actually had frost yesterday and I'm 2-3 meters above sea level. Hows the snow? My wife is in Calgary but heading to Sask this week. I'm hoping she will cancel.

[Easygoingjc]

Snowed all weekend here. Just a mucky mess really. It sucked because I was trenching gas and electrical to my garage. Worth it in the end. 

[datzenmike]

I cut my lawn.....

[datzenmike]

So last weekend I decided to move the needles richer by raising them by moving the tiny E clip.... and the first one I pulled off went flying off onto the lawn so I pulled the plug on that. Ordered a box of assorted metric clips from 1.5mm up to 10mm and have a dozen now. Perfect 2mm!

 

 

Moved them all Sat. to the second position up from the bottom. The severe lean is gone. Don't know what caused this as all I did was go to smaller jet size... maybe the needles were to damn high for the jet used.  Anyway need to drive it more to get a 'feel' for more part throttle driving and highway cruise. WOT produced a 10.6 so probably will try the 1.2s again with the needles where they are now. Every change changes everything.

 

Still can't get over the cold engine throttle response.

[datzenmike]

Fuck it's cold today, at freezing overnight. Can't count on doing much outside on the weekends so I covered my 710 for the winter. The windshield leaks on the passenger side so covered it with a garbage bag under the covering. Last year it hurt to come home and see her sitting there covered in leaves. My old '79zx 5 speed that developed a growl was out in the back yard so I moved it under cover also. Eventually I'll get it apart and build it with new bearings. 

[datzenmike]

Well nothing much. Every 3 or 4 weeks I fire it up using only the fuel enrichment (choke but not like a traditional choke) Two 10 second cranks and it fires on one then two, three and four with the starter spinning it. Let off and it idles at 450 dead cold. I tried turning the idle speed up with the R-1 cable thing and, wow that's what it needs. I'm going to make up something that's dash mounted to make this work. Before without it you cannot possibly give it gas and drive away without some warm up or it would backfire and stall. This idle adjustment seems to do the trick. Starter only, cold oil pressure is 31 PSI. Put meter on battery 14.45V charging. 

 

It's so damp here that I got a cookie sheet and put 1/4" layer of rock salt on it and put in the back seat. Done this for years. Salt absorbs moisture out of the air and becomes like a damp paste. Just check it every week. Put in the oven for 15 min to dry it out and put it right back in the car. Keeps the damp from dripping and fogging the inside glass. Car stays bone dry inside and no mold forms.

[datzenmike]

What's with dash lights on Datsuns? At night I can't read the mileage and barely see the needles. I just ordered some LEDs for my dash and have a couple spares to work on. I notices there are only 3 greenish illumination lamps. One on the outside of the speedometer one on the outside of the gauges and one shared between them. I've noticed that the top of the speedometer is the dimmest because farthest away from the lamps and what do you know? The top of the printed circuit has a lamp contact, but they never punched a hole through and made it usable. The illumination lamps have a green plastic cover to make the light greenish... I could pull one from the spare and glue it on. I think I will try this.   

[datzenmike]

Well I got the LEDs and surprise! they made them so that they can be plugged in, in either direction. I'm going to drill out the one at the top of the spare gauge cluster that has a printed circuit for it and put one in there, just for practice for the one in the car now.  Off work so why not do these finicky things now?

 

Years ago I bought a pair of Pioneer 10" speakers for my king cab and when I got my 710 I built boxes for them.  Nothing special just as big as I could from a half sheet of 5/8 plywood that would fit in the back and could be moved around. Maybe just over a cubic foot interior volume. So a few weeks ago I looked up these decade? old speakers specs and suggested enclosure sizes and made one to fit behind the back seat between the wheel wells. Approximately 0.9 cu ft each, that's two so 1.8 divided in the middle to separate them acoustically and 3/4 plywood for about $40? They also recommend  a 13" long 3" diameter tuned port. I got some 3" plastic electrical conduit and flared (trumpet) ends, 13" total length and secured them inside. The flared end was my idea to limit any huffing sound from air movement. (I seriously doubt this will be a problem but they were there and free so wtf?) Everything glued and screwed and even one of those terminal gadgets with the screws for connections. Covered with $10s of black grill cloth. The speakers are 4 ohm so I paralleled them to 2 ohm which is popular with today's subs. Now I have two pair of outputs and only connected to one side instead of bridging them across the outside terminals, so there is that to try yet. The old boxes were ok but I had nothing to compare them too. They boomed I guess. But holy fuck now it thuds! What a difference this has made and what crap I put up with before. I'll try bridging the speaker tomorrow if it's nicer out. My Pioneer amp is just as old a GM W-952 and 'rated' at 200 per side and 600 bridged but with 2X 25 amp fuses this is exactly 600 watts and no amp made is 100% efficient so definitely less than 600 watts. (found it, it's rated at 450 on mono @ 4 ohms and I'm @2 ohms so I may blow the fuses.... ) Speakers are nominal 250 watts each and max 500 whatever that is or if believable. I was considering newer speakers or more amp but I dunnoh now.

[datzenmike]

Wow last post was end of March. Haven't even sat in my 710 till today, rather I've been working on a tan, doing 1-3 hours a day walking. Talking to my clones. 

 

But I biked into town (from 5 days a week to once a month now) and got a sway bar link kit and put them on. The rubber ones were original and chaffed and worn to a wedge shape. The only place where poly makes sense is a sway bar.

 

While I had it jacked I greased the ball joints. Gotta wire wheel the surface rust off the rotors that have sat since last Sept? This is the year for an oil & filter change too so have to pick some up.

 

My wife wants me to road trip to Calgary to visit our daughter and new grandson so need to assure myself that everything has been looked at. Maybe at end of June.

[datzenmike]

Took calipers off and wire wheeled the rotors nice and clean, rims and tires back on. Fired her up while doing this and then drained the hot oil. I refilled with Rotella T4 10W30 rather than 15W40. All oils are about the same viscosity when hot and running and the thickness is selected for cold starting. Couldn't get a L series filter so in order to use a NAPA Gold I'm using a 318 Dodge filter. Rather then take the plug wires off and clean them like I always do at the start of the driving season, just for fun I swapped them (blue NGK) for the longer ones from a 280zx. (also blue NGK) The longer wires allow me to run them around the front of the valve cover and down the side rather than over the valve cover. Looks neater.... nicer.

 

It's a start....

[datzenmike]

Put floor plug and carpet back in the passenger floor.

Put the rear wagon seat back in and vacuumed the car.

Wired my amp and subs and my electric seat.

JB welded the broken plastic handle back on the hood pull lever.

 

It's hard as hell to get motivated when everything is pulled apart and just laying there all over.

[datzenmike]

 

The R-1s have a small thumb wheel to adjust the idle speed. When I start with the fuel enrichment there is no 'fast idle' as such like with the regular downdraft. It idles pretty good at 600 cold but you can't really drive it till it warms up a bit. I get out go under the hood and turn the idle up to over 1,000 then you can drive it. Then get out later and turn it back down. It crappy.

 

The idle speed adjuster is what looks like a speedometer cable in a mesh rubber sleeve. It's only 18" long so works just fine and doesn't kink. So I went out to the infamous parts pile and found a 71B speedometer cable. I managed to remove the R-'s cable screw end at the carbs and the thumb wheel at the other. By shortening the speedometer cable and crimping the R-1 ends on I now have something I can clamp to the under side of the dash and set the idle while sitting down. Best of all there was a rubber plug in the firewall that I drilled a small hole in for the cable and it seals up nicely. This cable has a nice orange silicon hose heat shield for it, trimmed to length.

 

When finished the idle adjust will be near the 'choke' cable...

 

[datzenmike]

Was for a drive and the brakes are shit to what I remember they were when put away. Rear master reservoir is low so off with the rear drum. E brake is slack should tighten in 3?or 4 clicks and it's more like a dozen but before setting need to adjust the rear brakes. Driver's side just needs cleaning but while at it have to fix the adjusters.

 

Left is fucked from PO and years of vice-grips. Right is better but... welding a 14mm nut on makes a ratchet and socket soooo easy to adjust.

 

 

Right rear had damp shoes and that crystallized brake fluid all over the wheel cylinder. I already have two new cylinders and new shoes. I see the the friction material is not positioned like what's on there now with the lining closer and farther away from the cylinder. Both shoes are equal so leading and trailing shoe does not matter. Because of this I have to go back to the left side and change them also.

 

Bent over and on the ground wrenching yesterday and I felt like shit last night and was in no hurry to get at it today. Will swap those other shoes tomorrow and Mrs d will help me bleed them.

[datzenmike]

Well stupid me. When I went to put the other side on the pair looked different to the other side I did yesterday so I went back and pulled the drum off. Sure enough I had both leading on on side and was about to put the trailing pair on the left. So these shoes ARE the same as the ones that were on there. Anyway everything is clean and lubed so swapping the shoes around properly is clean and easy enough. I have them on correctly with the friction material farthest away from the wheel cylinder in the direction of rotation.

 

While out on my walk I was freaking about why my brakes are so shitty with only one rear cylinder leaking and shoes wet. Then I stopped and made like someone else was asking for help and what would I tell them to look for or try. First thing, other than the leaking cylinder, was there a leak in my vacuum supply to the booster? Sure enough I found a split in a hose. Trimmed it and screwed a suitable bolt in the end to seal it. 

 

So I tried to bleed the brakes but no matter what I tried nothing comes out. I think the master is simply not moving far enough. Ordered a vacuum pump brake bleeding kit from Amazon it's in next Tuesday. Probably only need this once but if I have one I'll be less reluctant to disconnect a brake line  in the future. 

[datzenmike]

 Didn't mention that my turn signals are not working this year but were when I parked it last fall. Four way and turn are electronic units so I swapped them and the problem remained so not the unit. Checked for power when key on and that works. Both sides don't work so should be in the steering column. Short story is I went to the wrecking yard and got 3 electronic flashers and I don't know why but of the 5 I have, 6 if you count the 4 way, (although it works the 4 way but not the turn (wtf?)) 2 work. Any-who... signals working and spare in the glove box.

[datzenmike]

Had someone come over to pump the pedal. That fixed it up. I had previously loosened then tightened all the bleeders so while doing the right rear I pumped some fresh fluid though all cylinders and calipers. Pedal lost a few inches of travel and very  much firmer. Adjusted the rear shoes too and now hand brake only takes 3 clicks. Brakes working again!!!!

 

Bought a new battery and put some of that goo you put on disc brake pads to stop them from complaining.

[datzenmike]

Well I've had mixed results with the carb jetting. Started by drilling the stock 146 jets out to 180. Runs good but when would out it drops to 9.6 air/fuel which is as low as the gauge will read. Been fucking with the jet size over and over and all I got was low 10s at WOT. So today I changed the needle heights 5 times. But first I used my caliper to adjust them all to the same length and all at the lowest setting. Could barely drive around the block in the 17 and 19s with lean backfiring and the lowest it could forced was low 14 at WOT. So this is good as it means what I want is somewhere between. Took them apart and moved the needles up one notch sometimes adding a washer shim so they are all identical. Each time it was better and better. After 4 more notches it runs 15-15.3 at cruise and lowest you can force at WOT is high 12s. This is excellent. I bought a bunch of washer/shims which are about half a notch adjustment. Maybe tomorrow I'll shim them a final time to bump up the richness a hair. Or... I may leave them as I plan a trip on the mainland an will be well above sea level and needs a slight leanness. I'll take those washers with me just in case.

 

I guess the take away here is the jet size can vary and you have to creep up on the mixture by adjusting the needle position. Higher runs richer, lower runs leaner. Every time before I had to re learn this and then looking at the needles I probably moved the e clips down instead of up. I'd try it and no improvement so I would try another day. (after I had forgotten anything I might have learned) I was increasing and decreasing jet size and moving the needles up and down and no wonder this went no where.

[datzenmike]

On 7/3/2020 at 3:18 PM, datzenmike said:

 Didn't mention that my turn signals are not working this year but were when I parked it last fall. Four way and turn are electronic units so I swapped them and the problem remained so not the unit. Checked for power when key on and that works. Both sides don't work so should be in the steering column. Short story is I went to the wrecking yard and got 3 electronic flashers and I don't know why but of the 5 I have, 6 if you count the 4 way, (although it works the 4 way but not the turn (wtf?)) 2 work. Any-who... signals working and spare in the glove box.

 

Well I put LED dash lights in and now no turn signal or 4ways. wtf. Made a jumper and used it in place of the turn flasher unit. Turn key on a signal L and R and front and rears light so wiring switch and lights are good. Went into town and got two 50 watt resistors to add load. Too hot to do right now    

 

While the dash was part I changed the speedometer cable. The original transmission was a 26" 4 speed just like the 510. I put a long 31.5" 71B 5 speed in but was able to use the old speedometer cable. The new one was from a 31.5" long automatic and this is the difference. The 4 speed was on the drivers side and the longer 5 speed was on the passenger side but it still fit by routing it down over the bell housing. So if you have a 510 and switch to a 71B you CAN use the short speedometer cable.

 

[datzenmike]

Differential is full but transmission seal was wet. Put a new seal in and it needed almost 800ml to top it up. The Delco friction modified oil is no longer available at GM dealer. I topped up with straight Delco synchromesh transmission oil. I asked what they put in the RWD Corvette and Camaro and was told a synthetic ATF!!!!! Not sure I want to try that yet.

 

 

Made a tool to drive the seal in straight. It's 1 7/8 outside 1 5/8 inside. Old seal popped out too easily for the trouble I had pounding it in. New seal also went in easily maybe because of the tool but to be sure I de-greased the outer edge and the trans case lip then smeared a light coat of Ultra Gray around it. The 'old' seal is only a year or year and a half installed and I didn't take any holidays last summer so why did 800 of my 2,000 ml of oil leak out past it??? I de-greased the tail so if it leaks it will show. When I get to Calgary I'll be checking the oil level.

 

 

Wired one resister into each side and boom most of the flasher units work. Threw the others away. Found a turn flasher unit that flashes twice as fast in the 4 way. It's very noticeable. Instead of flash..... flash..... flash it's flash.flash.flash.flash.

 

Did I mention I put new poly bushings on my say bar a few weeks ago?

 

Last week installed two dome tweeters on the dash. Sound reflects off the glass nicely. This spring I made a box for my dual 10" speaker using the recommendations that came with it. Has a tuned 13" long pipe and a carefully designed cavity volume. There are 2, 10" so just doubled everything and it fits out of sight behind the goon back seat. Tunes for the road.

 

Replaced the FL amber clearance light.