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My '76 710 Goon


datzenmike

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yup. One HID has never worked the other side is fine. The high beams are just ordinary halogen and with them on only, are way worse than the one low beam HID. The working HID has suffered a stone bruise and it's broken. I'm hoping I can trade the guts into a high beam unit without the cut off.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Swapped the guts into a good lamp put the broken one in the high beam position.

 

The power cable for my amp is pathetic, old. I got a length of 8 gauge wire and re did the ends with lugs and shrunk wrapped them. Also put an inline fuse at the battery end. Takes one of those huge bayonet style plastic fuses (not included) so was at the wreckers to get some. Got 30, 40, 50 and a 60 amp. Got an extra 40 and used it. Now I can work to place the amp under the rear seat.

 

 

So this spring, and through the Canby trip, I noticed that my starter would engage and turn the engine but the very odd time it would suddenly disengage are just zing. Have to wait for it to slow to a stop and try again. Rare, and always started. So the last month this is much more common sometimes requiring 4-6 tries mostly after it been running. Come out of a store get in and while people watch, the starter zings to high heaven but the engine isn't turning. Makes the old girl look like an old girl and I imagine people shaking their heads. So fuckitall, no more. Grabbed one from my pile (had 12 starters at one time) and pulled the other out.

 

So I guess the GR (gear reduction) starter from a Z series will fit the L series. I know the regular starters will not because the left leaning Z series starter's solenoid hits the L series dip stick tube. I guess I didn't check when I put this one in because it fit but it's a Z series all right. I have a spare of both styles. Anyway I pulled the L GR out of storage, cleaned it up and installed. 

 

Unbolted the solenoid and it seems OK. The GR solenoids are different from the non GR solenoids. Looks like the problem is in the fork that moves the star wheel out to engage the ring gear. Good for spare parts at least. This is an original Nissan starter with lots of good life left in it 

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  • 2 months later...

Going to try something. R-1 carb steel intake. Don't have shield gas and would rather TIG weld aluminum. But that's in the future. So right now trying it in something I can do... think I can do.

 

Cut the flange of a '75-'77 L20B intake, the ones that are co-joined to the exhaust and pretty much the most useless intake around. Transferred the shape to steel

 

R-1%20carbs%20002.jpg

 

 

Drilled/bored to 1 5/8" so that a 1.5" exhaust pipe will fit. Didn't know if this would work on steel so went slow and squirted lots of water on the part while boring. Took about 45min for each hole using a POS $50 drill press.

 

R-1%20carbs%20001.jpg

 

 

Had some 1 1/2" muffler pipe laying around. Fits just right. Still needs the two bolt holes, will do tomorrow.

 

R-1%20carbs%20003.jpg

 

Probably will set the pipe back 1/8" and weld from the head side so it's air tight, Grind down the lip plus some on the outer carb side for good measure.

 

My U67 head has 1.375" ports that I gasket matched last spring for Canby trip but will have to be expanded again to 1.5". This will allow for any discrepancy/misalignment  in my drilling too.

 

Still have to figure out the pipe lengths and any bends yet.

 

When complete, sand down and silver/aluminum paint and it will look fine.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got a '74 as well but haven't done as much with it.

 

Working on a way to bend those two inner short lengths of 1.5" pipe so they will align with the R1 carbs

 

.....O O.......O  O..... L head intake ports

 

 

....O....O....O....O.... R-1 carbs

 

 

The outer tubes are almost straight and close to lining up. The inner two have to bend slightly inward go a few inched then reverse bent to straighten again. I figure two 20 degree bends would do it.

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That's what I'm hoping for so people say "How the fuck you bent it like that????"

 

 

Wow shitty rain and wind but home early and the sun came out so I did some work on my home made bender. Went into town for some 'things'. If tomorrow is as nice I'll get some more done on it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Adam. lol didn't plan to drive it in the winter and my ass was warmer on my bicycle seat!!! Four inches of snow and was -10C this AM. Want to remove the drivers side seat and wire the electric heaters up. Yes they have seat warmers.

 

Two days ago she quit in traffic going home. Managed three re-starts and drove home. Carb icing is my guess. Put the little L16 exhaust heat shield I got from 'the keeper' last Canby on, and stole the stove pipe from my '74 and connected it up. Also disconnected the cold air pipe from in front of the rad. Warmed carb air should fix the problem. Again I didn't connect this stuff up because I didn't plan to drive in the winter and...... fuck it's cold this year. Last year it only rained.  

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Ended up taking the seat out to see everything. Took indoors and used my battery charger for a supply. Found two wires that draw power between them and soldered 14 gauge wires to them and the cigar lighter plug. Put seats back and plugged in, couldn't tell if working or blew fuse.

 

Came  out yesterday to find plug left in socket and battery dead so ... working. Later in the day took for ride and, holy shit it works!!! Very warm seat. Couldn't feel the seat back but wearing a heavy coat so well insulated. Don't care, my balls are nice and warm after about 5 min of running. Sooner if there had been frost to clear off and it warmed up in the driveway.

 

The plug had a 1/2 amp fuse and very thin 30 gauge? wires. I soldered 14 gauge and a 5 or 10 amp fuse. The cigar lighter is also fused. Just have to remember to unplug when I shut the engine off. Maybe next summer I'll fix up a relay to the ignition and an on off switch. So cool (warm) to drive a Datsun with a heated seat.

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So last week the car quit in an intersection and was hard to restart. I got through on the end of the green but everyone behind was on the hind tit.

 

Yesterday half way to work, in the dark I step on the gas between lights and the car nose dives and it backfires out the exhaust.... extremely impressive.

 

This morning the same thing. Shotgun blast. Extra extremely impressive blast. (I guarantee when I read the next local paper there will be a notice that the police were called out to..... to a report of gun shots) Cars today with EFI just don't backfire so no one knows what the hell it is.

 

 

So I roll into work carefully and pop the hood... it's still dark. Reach in and rev the engine and there's a blue glow from the coil wire to the negative terminal. Shut hood. After work I found a hole in the rubber boot covering the coil negative terminal. It's a pin hole burned through by the sparks. Re positioned the coil so I could move the wires around and better position the boot. Runs better coming home. I'm going to look through my parts and fix this better.

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