My '76 710 Goon

[datzenmike]

Don't know why but fast idle isn't fast at all so I loosened lock nut and turned it up. 1,500-1,800 now on cold start, before it would try to idle at 700 and stall repeatedly.

 

Have driven it a couple of times into town in the mornings. Fires right up, nice fast idle, runs through the gears just fine. In town and warmed up, idle is about 800, drives perfectly, no balking and smooth clutch engagements. Pulls REALLY well now with the 108 jet. Before it would balk in too high a gear at low RPM. Hands down the best it has ever run.

 

Haven't noticed that brake shudder I mentioned. Will try to take out on the highway and press it harder.  

[datzenmike]

Picked up a VG33 pusher fan from an Xtera. Have the grill off air con condenser and plumbing removed. Rad is out and old water pump off.

 

NOTE. the L series engines do come with the larger pump cavity and impeller on air condition equipped cars. Until now all I have seen them on are Z series engines without air.

 

So I have a spare water pump and will keep the original for now. Cut the clutch fan off and have the pump ready to install. Cut my own gasket for it. Tomorrow, with luck will start to put stuff back on. The lower rad hose had an inline electric heater, that never is used, but a perfect place for the fan sensor to go. Welded a threaded bung into a short length of 1 3/8" pipe for the sender.

 

Still need to rig up a Nissan relay for the fan.

 

The fan has one power and two ground wires. Seems to have two speeds, but not much difference in them. Just noticeable.

[datzenmike]

OK water pump (without clutch fan) is in and belt back on. This was originally equipped with air con so the rad is likely larger than the stock L20B. As mentioned the condenser was just removed to free up space for the fan and it also lets more air through.

 

Installed in line sensor switch on the lower rad hose. Don't know if it can handle an electric fan load, so I'm using it to trip a relay. I have lots of the '80s style relays laying around. Fan clears grill and front of rad nicely. Tried to trip the relay to see the fan running but got nothing. I'll spend Sunday with a test lamp. Left it unplugged for now.

 

Start up and it's definitely quieter. Drove about 15 miles without the fan connected. Temp gauge solid at 1/2 point. As I said , as long as moving there is enough air going through the rad. I tried full throttle through the gears and it doesn't move but as the speed was over 70 by the end I'm not surprised.  Now at some point vehicle speed won't be enough so I'll try driving slower around town and see what happens. Also if climbing a steep hill you are going slower AND working harder so I expect this will maybe kick the fan on. Idling at the lights will if you wait long enough.

 

For now without the fan connected it was reliably cool. Before trying deliberately to over heat it I'm going to get the fan working.

[datzenmike]

Relay was bad. Put a spare one in and tripped it and the fan works boss.

 

Drove high speed 80+ and gauge moves up a fat needle width so just above 1/2. Runs cooler in town. Going to idle it and see (if) when the fan comes on in relation to the gauge.

[LenRobertson]

Thanks for posting all the additional carb information. "Turns out there is a slow system for above idle throttle using the same gas as the idle mixture screw. Both are shut off by the idle cut solenoid." is something I never really understood before. I'd heard of an "intermediate" system in a Hitachi but your explanation makes more sense.

 

Your experience sort of answers a question I've wondered about for awhile - whether it is necessary to completely tear down a carb and soak it in cleaner or is spraying carb cleaner in the jets and bleeds and blowing through with compressed air "good enough". It probably depends on how dirty and varnished a particular carb is, but it sounds like removing the jets and air bleeds and soaking does a better job. Since I have a bucket of carb cleaner I don't have any excuse not to do it that way (other than laziness).

 

Bad news for me - a 710 goon showed up for sale within reasonable driving distance. Priced at $1800 which isn't a horrible price (assuming they would take a bit less), but high enough for cheapskate me that I'm able to resist calling on it (so far). I suspect I'll pass this one up and wait for a cheaper one in way worse shape. But I'm sure I'll be thinking about it for a few days.

 

Len

 

 

[datzenmike]

I agree, I always thought there was the idle mix and then the venturi provided the rest. I cleaned that slit above the idle screw with a dental pick. There is also an air bleed for this slow system. The larger the hole the less fuel gets to the idle/slow circuit.

[datzenmike]

OK out for drive and came home and left running in the driveway with hood up so I could see and hear. After maybe two minutes on came the fan. Thirty seconds and off, minute or two (no more) on again. I checked and the temp gauge is no more than 60% of the way up into the run range. When the fan comes on it does drop to half way, then back and forth. About a needle width so I am ecstatic, it works perfectly and I don't have to keep checking it. I know I can idle indefinitely just like with the mechanical fan.

 

Total cost was the VG33 Xterra fan... $20. Two bucks for 1 3/8" chunk of pipe and $2 for pipe bung for the sensor. A Electrical wiring, Nissan relay, electrical tape and connectors, solder and welding I had at home as most Datsun owners will. Oh... I put 4 new SS hose clamps on, didn't have to but I did so add $6

[MicroMachinery]

Good stuff, Mike!

[datzenmike]

Yeah runs good. Pulled into fav. wrecking yard today and idled around to the back row where I was doing something. Got out and there was a funny whirring sound.... the fan. :lol: It's wired to come on without the key on.

 

Picked up a pair of Subaru Legacy? front bucket seats. Vinyl so easier to slide into on a lowered 710. Every time I go look at them I find something extra on them. Last time I saw switches on the console for seat warmers. Today I saw side air bags. I had to put my booster cables on the Subaru so I could move the damn seat forward (yeah... electric driver's seat) and found beside forward and back, up and down, there is also a tilt up under your knees. Oh! and lumbar adjustment! Important for when you are older and go on 3,100 mile Canby trips. I'm a goin' ta like these, I think.

 

 

Three day weekend here so I have something to keep me occupied.

[Eagle_Adam]

Been busy mike!

[datzenmike]

Yeah had the head off a week before Canby. Did some crazy shit fix ups and mods and then drove off for 3K miles.... nothing fucked up. :lol:

 

Spent all day till now making brackets so I can weld my 710 seat runners onto the Subaru seats. This way they should just bolt in. Have the pass side tacked together and will try a test fit. I can move it forward and back on the old sliders and then lock them and use the lever on the Subaru seat. If I have to I can shift side to side.

 

If I don't do the pass side first I just know I will run out of enthusiasm.

[Eagle_Adam]

If I don't do the pass side first I just know I will run out of enthusiasm.

So true it hurts....

[datzenmike]

OK.... (sigh) carefully measured and tacked into position, I placed the 'chair' in the pass side. Sits too high, my head is almost to the head liner, and could be more to the center of the car. Door closes close to the arm rest and it's hard to reach the sat belt.

 

I'm going to remove the 710 slides and the metal brace they were on and cut the front and rear mounts off and weld directly to the Subaru seat frame. This will lower it by at least 2... maybe 2 1/2" and I will move them a fat inch to the right which moves the seat to the center when mounted. This seat doesn't have the power tilt, up down,forward back and is still heavy as shit.

 

The zx seats that were in, sat much higher and still they were a little low.

[datzenmike]

Well 7 hours later, removed the 710 sliders from the Subaru passenger seat, cut the floor mounts (legs?) off and weld directly to the Subaru seat. Moved them a fat inch to the outside which moves the seat inwards. It fits better and because I measures 15 times and used a framing square all four holes line up, remove and finish weld them in place. Took the Subaru seat belt anchor off as not needed, but saving them. Going back and see what the rest of the belts are like. I hate the 710 belt as it's two piece. The 620 had a single loop through the lock and one tug and it cinched up. Now the driver's side.

 

 

 

 

Not too bad. Set the seat at about half the travel and if anything favored more rear travel than getting closer to the steering wheel. I guess it fits a wider ass between the bolsters. The zx was just right for support but I can't complain they are super easy to get in and out of.

 

[Phixius]

Omg, you do know how to take/post pics....

[datzenmike]

The reward of patience is a great composition. This picture looks easy but it took over an hour in a blind to catch these two mating

 

[datzenmike]

A friend noticed that these seats are leather not vinyl. Eh... what do I know?

[datsunfreak]

A friend noticed that these seats are leather not vinyl. Eh... what do I know?

 

Oftentimes they are a mix. Seating surfaces are leather, backs and sides are vinyl. 

[datzenmike]

Fuck me these seats are so easy to get in and out of.

 

 

Well I went back and did some measuring and I don't see why I can't swap the rear seats in too. The Subaru has a 2/3 split rear seat that folds down too. The seat is hinged on the front and has a strap that allows you to pull it up and forward so the seat back can fold down on top of it, just like the wagon. Everything looks close enough to try it. Don't care for the tan seat belts but there's an '01 with Black belts. I hate my 710 belt set up so If I can get these to work, that's a bonus.

 

 

I have a GM Lumina rear view mirror, the king that glues to the windshield. It has tow map reading lights that I sorely missed on my trip. Traced it to a shitty connection I made. It's much more permanent now

 

After Canby my CD player started not coming on intermittently. Took the console out to find not much wrong. Got it working... may have been the removable face plate not contacting?Don't know... it's working.

[hobospyder]

having the bottom of the seats fold out of the way for when the seat back folds down is nice, i've used it to my advantage in my golf. makes easier to get some bulkier items into the hatchback with excess of room

[datzenmike]

Yeah tilt the fronts seat forward or run them forward on the adjusters helps. I sleep in my goon on Canby trips. Not sure you would fit though.... not that you would be invited to, just sayin'.....

[hobospyder]

i usually have to sit drivers seat up since i drive with a lean. but hey, drove with a golf hood in the car one time. 

 

and no, i take a tent with when canby weekend

[datzenmike]

Oh, you pitch tents....

[hobospyder]

Yeah, I'm not at the age where it's too hard to

[datzenmike]

Wow it seems like a long ass week. One more day and I can spend Saturday at the wrecking yard. Mrs. D is out of town, woot. I want to see if the Subaru rear fold down wagon seats will fit my goon. Be nice to have the whole matching set of front and rear. Already have the price negotiated. Just need to take them out to see. Also want to look at some hi beam lamps I saw there.