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My '76 710 Goon


datzenmike

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I was doing some thinking, and I think I may add another button to have a flash to pass. I can add a nice momentary push button in a spoke hole of the steering wheel, much like rally cars have a push-to-talk system. That button will send power to the relays to turn them on. It would turn on the lows, and the highs, if the column switch is in the on position. The push button will have a spiral cable so it can stretch when the wheel is turned to lock.

 

The flash button power wouldn't hurt anything if I were to push it with the headlights on, right? I'd hate to have a failure because the power "collides" or something goofy.

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Canby trip is coming. Weather is nice so checking the lighting for night driving.

 

The tail lights are.... boring. They work but would like them brighter. Had to drill the passenger side screw heads off to get the tail light assy off. Of the three screws on the left side, two were wood screws jammed in there. The rear lamps have drain holes that allow critters in there as well as black soot? exhaust? Bulbs are black with dust. Insides are coated too. Used a bent toothbrush and soapy water to clean the insides and they look redder now. There is one bright brake/signal bulb (single filament 1156) and one brake/signal and running light (dual filament 1157) I kept the 1157 but replaced the 1156s with an LED lamp. Brakes and signals are now brighter.

 

Used vice grips to loosen and unscrew the headless screws. Replaced with hex cap screws M .8 X 40 worked.

 

One front fender marker lamp was out... just bad contact, fixed.

 

Need to drill out front parking lamp screw to get apart. Tomorrow.

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Rain stopped so I drilled out that screw head and got the front parking/signal lamp out. Replaced the clear bulb with an amber one. Looks more orange than yellow now.

 

Here's another thing... the amber lens is kind of opaque. Like those plastic headlamps that were once clear but are now foggy. I ran it over my buffing wheel on my grinder using Turtle wax as the polish and the lens darkened and cleared. Wow what a difference! The inside of the lens is a crosshatch of small prisms that direct the light forward. Now they actually work!

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LEDs for marker lights must have a clear advantage over the filament ones they replace or why bother? My aim is to be seen by others in the dark. Using less current is secondary and so is longer life... although one of the taillights is an original Hitachi from '76. Price was over $20 each... ouch!

 

 

 

bulb7225.jpg

 

 

Can't say for all types but the exterior tail brake/signal and front running/signal that replace the dual filament bulbs were brighter and had a small lens like a projector headlamp. I found the single bright brake/ turn signal bulb (only used on the back) was not any brighter. It's longer than the bulb it replaces so may not fit some tail light housings. The light is directed more to the rear and is slightly brighter than the dual single filament it replaces. I replaced the dual filament bulbs with these and left the single filaments alone.

 

I had an original bulb and there was a handy 12 volt battery  at the store to compare them. Most were no improvement.

 

The biggest change to brightness on the amber front ones was polishing the lens. They looked yellow but spread the light out or diffused it too much. When polished they became clear and see through. They are like a clear house light bulb compared to a frosted one. The dual LED bulbs would not have fit my housings on the front.

 

 

 

 


You didn't have to do any specific ground mods?

 

Bulbs fit the original sockets. Just push and turn.

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I have new headlamps coming. I took the old pots out, cleaned and painted them but does adjusters doe. Last time they were adjusted was the first after the factory when I lowered the car. The threads are solid rust and do not grip the nylon buttons that hold them. I tried several places but at $7 a pair... and 'they might fit'. 

 

Went down to my favorite fastener store and got metric bolts, Philips head, a washer each and two nuts. Set the gap and tightened the nuts together to hold it....

 

 

Headlamps%20002.jpg

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Well, removed the front amber parking turn signal lamps and replaced the bulbs with LEDs. Eight for the bright flashing turn signal and two for the running lamp. Brighter too I think, makes the usually orange lens look yellow.

 

 

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Last week I pulled my L20B carb off. It idles just fantastic. Has reasonable power and you can definitely feel the secondary pull in. It's always had a problem just off idle, a stutter when engaging the clutch (loading the engine) while adding throttle. It will pull away on idle and roll along but as soon as you touch the throttle it bogs, it noses over and if you hold the gas just a smidgen above idle it will often just stall. If you give it the gas and rev slightly and slip the clutch you can skip over this 'dead spot'. In 2nd or 3rd at very low speeds it acts exactly like a bad accelerator pump... exactly. Baff, catches and jumps ahead, baff, jump, baff. When cold and choke on (extra rich mixture) it runs smooth and no problem. j

 

Pulled it apart and right away found that some idiot had had it apart before (maybe to rebuild?) but they switched a solid screw with the hollow screw in the bottom throttle plate. The one that allow a vacuum signal up to the power valve in the float chamber. The one that opens under low vacuum and adds fuel to make it over all richer for acceleration. This wasn't the problem but it has more mid range power now. Cleaned the fuel bowl. it was clean, the jets 99/150 they were clean, carb sprayed the air bleeds and all the holes I could find in the throttle plate (vacuum advance and EGR vacuum ports) LEN I have the California screw in venturies that lift out ... forgot this is/was a Nevada car) secondary was slightly loose... tightened the set screw. Everything that could be taken out was and cleaned and put back, nothing out of the ordinary.

 

Spend a big chunk of time with the accelerator pump. Checked the one way BBs and springs, made sure to carb spray the passages out. Nothing.  Assembled and if possible it was worse. Now has slight stumble at cruise speed, maybe from all the carb cleaner and fuel dumped while messing with it.

 

That was last weekend.

 

This weekend I removed it and checked the primary jet (fine) (still) and replaced the accelerator plunger with one of the old style leather ones. It squirts fuel but maybe not enough. Replaced the dizzy cap also. Runs the same. Pulled vacuum advance off, runs the same. 

 

Absolutely no running problem when cold and choke on. Rich)

Idles perfect when warmed up.

Drives and pulls very hard, you feel and hear the secondary pull in.

No noticeable problem when you step on the gas and rev engine in neutral or clutch in. (no load on engine)

Car pulls away smoothly on idle when you let the clutch out slowly but, do not touch the gas.

BUT

If you pull away by adding clutch (load) and adding gas lightly, engine stumbles.

If you rev it up slightly and slip the clutch slightly more you can power through this and away you go.

 

I know now why surgeons do not operate on their own kids. It's way more fun to diagnose when it's someone else's problem.

 

So... I'm thinking that the idle mixture is perfect .... for idle. Just need to get through the 'Dead Zone'

 

 

Seems there is a crossover system called (aptly) the idle/slow system. It's a slightly slotted hole above the idle mixture screw right at the edge of the closed throttle plate. There is a passage up to an air bleed up above the float chamber. If this were... plugged.....

 

 

 

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Took idle mix screw out and carb sprayed the air bleed. It's done without taking the carb apart.... no change.

 

Removed carb and put the '79 truck carb on that I cleaned last weekend. Had the choke and idle cut wires cut so swapped the 710 choke and idle cut on. Starts but can't get near idle without quitting. Idle cut make clicking sound but I removed the pin inside and fires right up! Idle mixture screw doesn't do much.

 

Took for drive and the hesitation seems to be all but gone (will mess with the accelerator pump later) FUCK ME it really goes now!!! Still pulling above 5K and hits 6K easily enough. Before it was a long wait after 4K so I always shifted because it seemed a waste of time making it scream so long and going nowhere. Truck carb has 108/160 jets the 710 carb had 99/150. Noticed it had a slight miss during cruise that comes and goes.

 

Checked the plugs, they are black. Tried to set idle speed and mixture again but engine would stumble randomly. Pulled air filter off and carb is flooding and dripping into secondary causing random stumble and black plugs. Letting cool down before pulling front off carb.

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Float was insanely wrong, which is good, it was an easy adjustment. Fuel is just on the glass window. Idle more smoothly and even. Adjusted for best idle mix and took for a spin.

 

 

Well the fastest ever before was just 90 with a 4% out speedo so 77 ish. No problem going 110 so 105MPH. Damn! that's quite the improvement. Idle is strong at 900 will turn it down later. That bad off idle stumble is not noticeable or barely and I have to change how I pull away from a stop now. Cruise is now without any stumble sound in the exhaust. Smooth drone.

 

When engine cools I'll take some plugs out to read them.

 

 

The original 710 carb has been messed with before because I found the hollow bottom screw was mixed with another and there was no vacuum to the power valve. I couldn't get the just off idle stumble to go away so maybe an emulsion tube or air bleed has been mixed up also. Don't care right now. The '79 620 carb has done the trick

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