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My '76 710 Goon


datzenmike

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Think I've had it 3 years, 2 for sure. Had to disconnect the speedo and remove the complete instrument cluster with radio and clock... what a bitch. Clam shell off and unbolted the steering column for room.

 

 

I ran a wire from it to the coil (everything else was plug 'n pay) and just now realized that there may have been a wire taped up in the harness. :lol:  Never even looked. Oh well.

 

Sounds like it's time to track down a second 710 tach. You'll be the only 710 at Canby with a two-tach gauge cluster.

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Hey will, tach works awesome, thanks.

 

No problem! 

 

...now I just gotta install that dash pad. It's been waiting for the gauge cluster to be finished this whole time. (it's almost done. almost.)

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  • 1 month later...

Had it up to 5k today! :rolleyes:

 

 

 

So I drove the goon to work so I could take the block to the machine shop. While doing a quick walk round of the company van I remembered I should check the oil in it. I was going to top it off before Canby as it was at half a qt below full but figured I'd do it down there. Checked at Canby and no change. Drove about 1,200 miles altogether plus about a tank of gas at home. Bugger me it's still at half a qt. below full. No change I can see.

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Had the sedan to 5k...... feet the other week end :lol:  No, rpms Had to follow a slow Chevy and when we pulled out on the twin lane I went around him as he accelerated. Had to hold it much longer than I usually do in second. Not much power up there, not like yours Doug.

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  • 3 months later...

I took all the parts off my spare L20B 'test stand' and boxed it up for the winter. The power steering box Adam was so kind to pick up for me is in the shed. It can wait until next spring. I've been working on my Z22 with KA pistons and KA24E head and R1 carbs. Little side projects like making floating L20B rods for it and a copper head gasket filled in the time. Just yesterday I assembled the valves and rockers into the head. I wanted this to look old school so I was going to run a mechanical fuel pump and that's where the power steering pump was going to go. Guess I'll get it running first

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  • 10 months later...

Well insured for Canby and nothing done for three months because I wanted to drive it. So off the road last week and Mrs. D out of town so.... time to pull her 4:11 and stuff a 3.70 in it. The 3.70 was from that old orange goon I had given me years ago, I save everything. It's not that I want a 3,70 in her sedan it's that I don't want that 4:11 in it. I want the 4:11 in my goon!!!!!

The long range plan is a 4:11 gives me an 11% increase in RPMs at the same speed in any gear giving good acceleration in the bottom 4 gears. Now this would normally cut into the mileage on the highway but my current over drive 5th gear is 13.6% and a zx 5 speed is 25.5%. The difference is 11.9%. So take away with the rear gears and put it back with the increased over drive. First through forth are still seeing a 4:11 differential... now... the zx 5 speed has a 3.062 first gear and my present first is 3.321 the difference is 8.4% reduction. BUT I have 11% from the differential change so there is still a 2.6% gear advantage in first, second works out to about the same gear as I have now, third and fourth see 11% advantage. This is a close ratio transmission so much less RPM drop between gear changes.
 

411H-165rearendchange001.jpg

 

411H-165rearendchange002.jpg

 

37:9 the magic number.

 

411H-165rearendchange006.jpg

 

Swapped, just have to connect the driveshaft, put the wheels on, the oil back in, bleed the rear brakes... and I guess I should swap the pinion gear in so it reads right. For that I have the automatic that came with this differential.

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Hmmm. I'll maybe start the swap into the goon this week. My wife may ask what I'm doing but won't care much. It's not insured but I will take it down the block and see what 11% higher revs are like in this 5 speed. There's no rush to swap the zx 5 speed in yet. The latest will be Canby. Maybe I'll have the 2.3 done by then.

 

I also have plans for a mongrel box with a 2.9(something) first and a 0.67(something) overdrive. It's based on an S12 CA18ET 5 speed.

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'74 back together. Driveshaft on, oil back in, wheels back on. Brakes need to be bled.

 

'76 is up, diff out and 4.11 in. There was enough slack in the brake lines that I could just pull them out to the sides.

 

 

I guess I didn't ever check the brake shoes on the goon. Trouble with two 710s you think you did something but it's always the other. The pass side were worn down to the metal. Luckily the metal was just short of rubbing. Years ago at Canby I bought a Nissan Parts box with brake shoes in it. "$10 and it's yours! sorry, don't know what they fit." Well they look identical!!!

 

Marked forward and after for leading and trailing shoes I guess. Trouble is the ones on there are not set that way. In fact the brake diagram I have shows the 710 adjuster at the bottom and the wheel cylinder on top. Mine are adjuster top, cylinder at bottom. There's no way the E brake could reach it up there.

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Well together and running. Wow, what a difference!!!! Before in first, there was a nice pull then the secondary would open and keep pulling and then drop off and slowly keep revving and revving and to be honest, I would have give it a pity shift into second. Second would pull nicely. Now you don't hear the secondary and it screams to 5K so fast it took me by surprise. I always let off to shift but the engine is still revved and when the clutch dumps it's like a kick in the ass. Wow a 3.70 to a 4.11 has got to be the cheapest easiest performance increase ever. Will have to work out a pinion gear change for the speedometer.

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3.70 to 4,11 is 10.8% change in RPMs. This reduces my old zx 5th's 12% overdrive back to almost the same as the old 4th gear. As mentioned a later zx has 24.5% overdrive and this will get me back my 12% OD. 

 

Wow, not easily impressed but... wow. Can't wait till nexy year when I get it one the road for Canby.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well two weeks ago when I swapped the differential I noticed the rear right shoe was down to the metal at the top. The lining had flaked off but metal wasn't touching ... yet. Wow that's close.

 

710rearbrakes002.jpg

 

So I assume that these are the original shoes and took pictures of them for their position as there are leading and trailing shoes. I checked everywhere on line to find out what the rules are for shoe placement. Let me tell ya there exceptions to everything. I was told the shorter lining goes to the front..... good! but my shoes are the same length lining. There were diagrams of the big3 and others but the adjuster was at the bottom and the wheel cylinder at the top... mine are the other way round. Added to the confusion is the linings are clocked differently with two closer to the bottom and two closer to the top. So does the closer one to the bottom (nearest the wheel cylinder) go to the front or back??

 

I found the 610 rears are identical but no description. There is one picture that is identifiable as a left rear so I checked the shoe placement and it agrees with the one that were on my goon. So I'm going with this: The shoe that, when the brake is applied, moves in the direction of rotation has the lining farthest away from the wheel cylinder.

 

On the right rear rotation is clockwise, wheel cylinder is at the bottom so left or rear shoe has the pad farthest from the cylinder as shown below.

710rearbrakes001.jpg

 

 

Here's the new shoes on. Note lining on left is closer to the top and will be farther from the bottom on that side.  I used an anti seize compound on the adjuster screw and slides also at touch points on the backing plate, the lugs and the center hole.

 

710rearbrakes006.jpg?t=1411172111

 

 

Always have small problem removing the drum so I use the 12mm bolts to back it off.

 

710rearbrakes003.jpg

 

This could be that even with the adjuster backed off the drum has a small outer ridge to be pulled over the shoe lining. Before putting them on again I tried with and after filing this ridge down. With a small filing job it slips on and off without having to use the bolts.

 

710rearbrakes005.jpg

 

Next to last was adjusting the brake adjuster cams. Just the faintest sound of rubbing on both sides.

 

Last was the E brake that has never been adjusted and the line hangs down.  Used to pull the lever all the way to the top with barely any holding on a grade. Now only three clicks and solid.

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  • 10 months later...

Well another year has come and gone.... and the insurance has done run out, so.... It's time to do stuff.

 

My headlights are made by Abysmal anyone else have those? Should have called them Forrest.... Not particularly bright. Anyway I'm taking a page out of the dime quarterly and upgrading to relays and 12 gauge wire but some added features. One is having the lights come on with the ignition like the 'new' cars. Driving with headlights on is encouraged here in BC but not the law yet. It is elsewhere. Probably a good idea these days as almost all cars do and drivers pulling out on the road don't expect cars without them. Had one close call already. The problem is remembering to turn the damn things off. I want to forget about this so it will be designed in. This will pave the way for bigger and brighter lamps too.

 

I started yesterday with $16 worth of 12 gauge wire. I took the lamp sockets out of my 620 and some from one of the many harnesses I have laying around for parts. I poked out the brass female contacts and crimped and soldered the 12 gauge wire to them. The two grounds on each pair of lamps will be bolted to the rad support. I trimmed the wires to length (one for hi beams and one for low) and have them reach over behind the battery to the black box that houses the fusible links, ignition and headlamp relay etc. This is where I will mount the relays.  

 

Just started this at work to motivate me to post progress pictures tonight.

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I may leave the old harness in place for now. The new one I want to cover with the split harness covering and the relays will be out of sight. I plan to have two fusible links one for the hs and one for the lows and switched on by the ignition. In addition I want a 'flash to pass set up. I think that's what it's called. My turn signal lever has low beams in the middle position and high beams when moved towards the dash. These only work when the light switch is in the ON position. There is a third position when you pull the lever towards you. It's only on when you hold it on. This position does nothing and the wiring diagram shows it turns the low beams on but only if they are on already. wfd??? there is a spare wire that is connected but it goes to a blank position on the plug so again... wtf??? Maybe this is on the later 710s? Anyway the plan is to use this third position to turn all the headlights on as a warning device to oncoming vehicles. 

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76%20headlight%20up%20grade%20001.jpg

 

These are the headlight sockets I'm working with. The only thing wrong with them is the 16 or 18 gauge wires. So I un-clipped them and slid in a 12 gauge, crimped it and soldered them... Yeah the solder is a bit liberal but no cold solder joints and no 'bird shit' blobs. The loose copper ends are the remains of the 18 gauge wire wrapped around the 12 gauge.  It's on there.

 

 

76%20headlight%20up%20grade%20003.jpg

 

Each lamp socket has on ground wire or two per side. I joined them as pairs and will ground nearby on each side to the rad support. Saves wire and what better ground return that the body metal? Haven't decided on the rubber covers or I may use large shrink rubber tubing. Got $6 worth of that harness cover so way under $25 so far.

 

76%20headlight%20up%20grade%20004.jpg

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Relays.

The brown relay connects two pairs of contacts, so this relay will supply power from the battery, separately, to each Black relay.  The brown relay will be turned on by the ignition. Just before the relay will be two fusible links, probably Green (40) amps. If one blows I will still have the remaining Hi or Low beams.

 

One Black relay each for Hi and for Low beams. These will be told which lamps to be on by the old headlamp wires to the HI/Low beam on the right side.

 

76%20headlight%20up%20grade.jpg

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Thats badass!

 

I'm really liking the idea of "flash to pass"...... crazy that your switch has that 3rd position towards the driver. If you get a chance could you post up some pics of the switch assembly on or off the vehicle? 

 

I may leave the old harness in place for now. The new one I want to cover with the split harness covering and the relays will be out of sight. I plan to have two fusible links one for the hs and one for the lows and switched on by the ignition. In addition I want a 'flash to pass set up. I think that's what it's called. My turn signal lever has low beams in the middle position and high beams when moved towards the dash. These only work when the light switch is in the ON position. There is a third position when you pull the lever towards you. It's only on when you hold it on. This position does nothing and the wiring diagram shows it turns the low beams on but only if they are on already. wfd??? there is a spare wire that is connected but it goes to a blank position on the plug so again... wtf??? Maybe this is on the later 710s? Anyway the plan is to use this third position to turn all the headlights on as a warning device to oncoming vehicles. 

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Maybe it was added later that year or the next and the wiring is ready. I haven't looked at the switch and may not need to. If I do I will take pics for sure.

 

Tonight I connected the Hi and the Low wires to their respective relays. These are the two wires that go out to the lamps. I also did the wires to the two terminals on the relay that are normally off until turned on by the ignition. These two wires will go to the double relay with the two fusible links. Sounds simple but really this involves removing the pins and soldering the 12 gauge wires to them and putting them back in the connectors.

 

What I should do is draw this thing out. Right now when the light switch is pulled out there is power to all lamps and the ground side is switched to ground to light them up. I'll have the ground on all lamps and switch power to the lamps I want on.

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Well I pulled all the short small gauge wires from the relays and plugged in most of the new heavy gauge wires. I made a common ground wire for the relays from a smaller piece of green wire from an old harness. The relays only draw a few watts so they don't have to be near as thick. Still to do is get the two fusible links figured out and wired.

76%20headlight%20up%20grade%20005.jpg

 

Will make a drawing of what I am doing this weekend. It'll make more sense.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been procrastinating. Went out and put battery in and finally the positive clamp fell apart. Luckily I had another better thicker cable on an old starter. There's an hour getting it in place bur it also has the plastic cover over the positive clamp so a good sight better looking too.... anyway turn key on .... no lamps on. Which is not what I was trying for. I fire it up anyway and only the pass side lights up. Better. I guess I used the auto choke on signal that only works when the engine is running??? That's fine for now but if the alternator were to quit while driving at night... must check and change this. Two min. with a test lamp shows that I plugged the driver's side lamp plug on upside down... fixed, both working.

 

So the two low beam lamps look pretty bright white even in the day time. Usually they look kind of orange. Will try them after dark and see.

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I likey, Mike. Not intending to thread jack, just want to share my same electrical redux.

 

I'm working on making a new headlight harness for my 510. By new, I mean it's independent from the original wiring, except the original output from the headlight switch to act as the relays signal, and high beam ground from the column to ground the high beam relay. Highs can only be operated when the lows are on. All factory headlight wiring in the engine bay has been removed. Relays will be powered from the starter stud and fused individually; good strong power, and no more flickering from overloading the original switch. Each light has an independent ground wire, that eventually tie together at a radiator bolt on each side. I used 14 gauge wire, and different colors for low/high beam, and made a wiring diagram that anyone can understand. I wanted to do a "flash to pass" setup but couldn't think of an easy way to wire it up since the 510 high beam switch has just two positions; an off and on (toward driver) position. I didn't want to wire it such that the highs could be left on by accident.

 

I wired it differently too. Usually, the lows dim when the high beams are switched on. This is my own reasoning, but I think that's done so there isn't an extreme load on the system. I wired mine so the lows stay the same even when the highs are switched on; there is now only two wires at each plug; power and ground. Not that I use the highs much anyway, but it's kind of annoying when all the light is up higher/further, and no light on the road in front. I figure with my setup, it will handle the current no problem between the lows/highs having separate circuits, and a 60amp alternator.

 

I'm still debating on whether or not I should have the relay signal wires tied to the ignition "on" position. I thought for some reason that if I needed to have the headlights on with the key off then I could. I haven't finished yet, so I can figure out exactly what I want to do. Oh, I also lengthened the turn/running lights as I've routed everything different, and used 14 gauge for them too, because why not...?

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Ha ha I did the same. When I get the high beams working the lows will still be on.

 

The left side has two 12 gauge wires to a large grounding bolt on the inner fender about a foot away. The right side grounds are maybe18" (or less) and ground to the body ground terminal already on the battery tray. One 12 gauge wire to the HI and one 12 gauge to the Low. Both wires come from separate relays and both relays get power from their own fusible links via 12 gauge wires and the links connect to the battery positive cable by I would guess a 10 gauge? judging by the fact they are thicker than my other wiring. 

 

My original headlamp wiring is totally out of the loop. I will be using the hi/low beam turn signal switch to turn the Hi beams on and the 'flash to pass' option. The headlamp switch will still need to be used for the marker and dash lamps, well for now any way.  

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