datsun clutch slave pushrod

[atkinson40]

Is there a longer clutch slave pushrod option for a '72 620? I had this gap that existed before changing the clutch leading me to believe the pressure plate springs where worn and not returning the actuator enough to contact the slave pushrod. I replaced the clutch and still have the gap. I've got movement from the slave pushrod but the gap is so large it never comes close to actuating the clutch. What am I missing? Is there a longer pushrod? I think dumb me changed a clutch w/o needing to. I've also replaced the slave and pushrod. Thanks kevin

 

[Logical1]

I have recently had the same problem on my 70' 510. I swapped my slave out for a 78' 200sx which is a little longer and that still didn't fully engage my clutch (Even with the Master pushrod adjustment on my pedal max'd out) So I picked up a extra bracket that attaches the master pushrod to the pedal, cut the tabs and welded in some extra material to make them longer and put it back on. Now my clutch fully disengages & I have plenty of adjustment to set it where I like. I went the extra mile by re-fabbing parts and I'm not suggesting you do that same. I know there are several length pushrods available and to be sure to max your master pushrod before blaming your slave. I really like mklotz70 Fabbing of a return spring set-up to pull your throw out bearing off your clutch, you can find that here: Cutch Slave

[datzenmike]

If the tranny was swapped it may have had a shorter release bearing housing on the clutch arm... or it might have got mixed up with the correct L16 housing. The shorter housing would explain the space on the push rod.

 

Only the 521/510 and early 620 had the return spring on the clutch arm. Newer trannys don't use them.

[atkinson40]

If the tranny was swapped it may have had a shorter release bearing housing on the clutch arm... or it might have got mixed up with the correct L16 housing. The shorter housing would explain the space on the push rod.

 

Only the 521/510 and early 620 had the return spring on the clutch arm. Newer trannys don't use them.

 

 

Thanks All. I looked at the link above and noticed the adjustable pushrod. I thought in the cobwebs of my memory from 20 years ago my other 620 had an adjustable pushrod. Where can I get one of those?? Or is there another solution? DM, I'm not sure what tranny the truck has. I know the engine is L18 so its been swapped at one time or another. Will installing a longer pushrod and rigging a return spring fix all this? Thanks Kevin

[datzenmike]

If it has a removable pan on the bottom it is likely stock.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Mike I will assume he has a newer trans as the clutch fork does not have the hole in it to use the adjustable rod. Unless somone one put a newer FORK on there.

 

To me the T/O collar is the wrong size.

or soembody didnt use the org T/O bearing and collar which was on the tran when it was installed.

 

But that is my best guess write now.

 

 

Is there alot of slop at the Fork????????

 

 

the adjustable rod is used when the clutch fork has a hole in it. So getting a adj rod isnt going to help Unless the rod is long and it passes thru the fork and uses a Half ball shaped pushed threaded on the rod with a jam nut. Usually 12nn in size

 

maybe look at a new slave and the new one might have a longer rod with the kit??????? Or make one

[atkinson40]

Mike: Tranny has a removable pan.

 

Hainz: I've replaced the disk, pressure plate, T/O bearing and slave on the truck.

 

From what I've read the 1972 620 came with a 1600 engine but this truck has an 1800 engine in it so someone has swapped the engine at a minimum. I'm not sure if the old tranny was put back in or if a tranny from the 1800 engine was installed also.

[banzai510(hainz)]

if you truck has the pan its the stock trans.

L18 is usaully a 200mm clutch but there was a 1 year where there was a 225mm set up in the trucks. Datsunaholic or Bleach knows this for sure. 225 use a bigger T/O bearing .

But if its a 200mm I assume its all like a 510 200mm stuff.

 

Id just be guessing noew whats going on unless I can see the parts used.

 

 

I had a wrong part from the box once. I had a 280Z T/O bearing for a 510. But I was new and in a rush and didnt compare parts before install.Dropped the trans again.

 

If you got a good flywheel and parts the clutch sould last minimum 90K for sure

[atkinson40]

Went to the JY yesterday and scrounged for a longer slave push rod. I found one that fits and takes up the slop. Next hurdle is to see if the T/O bearing is rubbing on the fingers of the pressure plate. There's still a small amount of space between the push rod and the throwout bearing arm but the ambient pressure from the cylinder pushes the rod out and against the arm. I may need to hook up a spring on the arm to keep the pressure off the disk fingers.

[compression]

I had this problem once, way back in the day....

 

I ended up pulling out the short pushrod and making a new one. I used a harbor freight phillips screwdriver, cut off the handle and the tip. then cut the shaft to the right length, rounded the corners by spinning it in a drill and holding it to my bench grinder. Worked great from there on out.

Not sure if that is helpful, just what popped in my mind when I read the original post.

[datsunfish]

Slave pushrod issue is cake. Take the pushrod from a brake or clutch master cylinder and drill a hole in the TO fork,slap on a nut. There you go! Cant remember but there may have been some grinding but an easy fix with commonly available junk. The screwdriver trick is quite crafty too.