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Sudo 520


Sudo

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So Sudo, where do you have to go to find someone to rebuild the J13 for $750. I just called the local go to engine rebuilder here in Portland, and they want $1800, and that is without even promising they can actually do it because of parts availability. WOW! For $750 I think I would do it. For $1800 I can have someone else put a L16 or L20 in it and have a lot more HP. I guess there are benefits to living in KS.

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Update time! Ran and drove the 520 on Tuesday April 12th 2011. It's been a while. Shakedown drive was true to its name. Put her back on jackstands on Wednesday, drove again on Thursday and Friday. Back on jackstands Saturday. Drove again on Sunday. ( I think I am all done with keeping the tires off the ground for now)

 

Alright, so process- the L20b and 5 speed was going to take more fab work than I wanted to do, plus I picked up a 78 510 that I could put the L20b frankenmotor in. So I decided to rebuild the j13, many already know that much. rebuilt the engine, slapped it back in and bob's your uncle! It wasn't as easy as all that though. For one, I had taken out the transmission mounts and gearbox back when I was thinking of doing a swap. Those, of course, did not just bolt right back in.... for some reason....

it took me half a day to figure out that you need to put the drivers' side on its mount before trying to line up the passenger side motor mounts. Bleeding clutch and brakes were a process of trial and error. Mostly because my 7 year old daughter was "helping" me. This accounted for the Wednesday and Saturday trips back under the truck. BUT- it runs and drives great now. Everything that was working still seems to be working, now I am back to fixing it up from the PO.

 

rustproof and recarpet the cab. new steering wheel, instead of that boat wheel that is in there. new door panels. new stereo. tint the windows. pretty much in that order. Pix tomorrow, promise.

 

 

Now to get that 510 running.....

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Before

passengerSide-1.jpg

 

After

84093f3f.jpg

 

Before

engine1.jpg

 

After

02f272fa.jpg

 

Before

bumperSticker.jpg

 

After

b1899b98.jpg

 

Before

driversInterior.jpg

 

After

b18c2a7f.jpg

 

 

Well, some of the "After" shots should be called "During" instead. I'll eventually paint it, that is why the engine bay looks so shitty now. I installed seat belts (ordered from Wesco from a tip on Ratsun) today and will apply rustproofing and sound deadener today or tomorrow (both from tips gleaned from Ratsun) so that is why the cab looks so shitty.

 

I think the slave clutch cylinder is out I have to double clutch to get it in reverse when cold. After I've used the clutch for a few minutes it shifts better but not as good as it should. I've bled the clutch 3 or 4 times now and adjusted everything that can be adjusted, so I am picking up the part today. Hopefully that helps. (BTW- if anyone is interested it is a knocking sound and hard to engage gears - reverse is a real grind. It could be the master, but I'll start with the slave and go from there.)

 

-Steve

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@ alleycat - they are seats out of a 73 Honda CVCC covered in VW fabric.

@ flatcat19 - I used the exiting bench seat rails for the outside - bolted right in. On the inside next to the tunnel-> all thread, nuts, lock washers and 1.5" bushings from the helpful hardware place.

to make sure I drilled holes in the right place, I used the original bolts on the tunnel side, in the bottom of the seats (I mounted the outside) I then put liquid electrical tape on the bolt heads and went away to do something else. When I was ready to permanently mount the seats, I unbolted the outside bolts on both seats, pulled the seats out and the electrical tape had left either a residue or a really clean spot. I drilled those 4 spots out. I then ran all thread up through the holes, put bushings over the all thread, then back underneath the truck -> fender washers, lock washers, and nuts. I made sure i had enough play and cut the allthread. All in all- about 30 minutes to install.

 

On a side note. I need to do something about the steering wheel. Anyone know if a 521 or 620 will fit the 520? The Grant website only goes back to 72.

 

Charlie- I might have to pull the whole steering assembly! If I do, I'll be hitting you up for more details on the rag joint. After lowering the truck the steering wheel is about 12" from the dash. If I can get a relatively no-dish steering wheel, I'll just live with it.

 

 

I got the sound deadening and carpet in yesterday and the oil pressure switch went out. I was freaking there for a few. I changed out the switch and all is well again. pics to follow.

 

-Steve

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@ alleycat - they are seats out of a 73 Honda CVCC covered in VW fabric.

@ flatcat19 - I used the exiting bench seat rails for the outside - bolted right in. On the inside next to the tunnel-> all thread, nuts, lock washers and 1.5" bushings from the helpful hardware place.

to make sure I drilled holes in the right place, I used the original bolts on the tunnel side, in the bottom of the seats (I mounted the outside) I then put liquid electrical tape on the bolt heads and went away to do something else. When I was ready to permanently mount the seats, I unbolted the outside bolts on both seats, pulled the seats out and the electrical tape had left either a residue or a really clean spot. I drilled those 4 spots out. I then ran all thread up through the holes, put bushings over the all thread, then back underneath the truck -> fender washers, lock washers, and nuts. I made sure i had enough play and cut the allthread. All in all- about 30 minutes to install.

 

On a side note. I need to do something about the steering wheel. Anyone know if a 521 or 620 will fit the 520? The Grant website only goes back to 72.

 

Charlie- I might have to pull the whole steering assembly! If I do, I'll be hitting you up for more details on the rag joint. After lowering the truck the steering wheel is about 12" from the dash. If I can get a relatively no-dish steering wheel, I'll just live with it.

 

 

I got the sound deadening and carpet in yesterday and the oil pressure switch went out. I was freaking there for a few. I changed out the switch and all is well again. pics to follow.

 

-Steve

 

Very recently, there was a thread about steering wheel hubs.

If I recall right-the 620 hub works, but leaves a gap between the hub and the cover. It also disables the auto-return for the turn signals. Don't hold me to that.

I think I just read a day or so ago that the 720 ST hub works too. Or that could've just been to mount between different brands of 6 bolt steering wheels. Once again, don't hold me to that.

 

Truck is looking great though, Sudo.

I was looking forward to seeing that LZ go into this.

Now I'll just have to try to get excited about the J.

:P

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On a side note. I need to do something about the steering wheel. Anyone know if a 521 or 620 will fit the 520? The Grant website only goes back to 72.

 

 

I just put the complete 720 tilt steering column hardware onto the 520 column, which includes headlight switch, wiper switch, and turn signal switch, it all mounted in the stock 520 turn signal alinement hole, but was slightly tilted, the tilt wheel key assemblly will also work, it just won't lock the wheel. Then I tried the 720 steering wheel, it went right on. I'll get a oic. later today. The only thing that wouldn't work was the 720 column nut for holding on the steering wheel. Since the 720 steering wheel went on, it wouldn't suprise me if all the datsun truck steering wheels would fit. wayno

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