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Jeff's 71 4-door dime


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Well I got the firing order right. She tried to start last night before the snow started but I turns out one of the floats I soldered is still leaking bad. I am going to buy a new one and save myself the trouble. Then hopefully she will run long enough for me to tune these carbs. If she still won't start with a new float I'm going to throw on the old downdraft while I sort out the rest of the car.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the new float in the mail a couple days ago, once it was installed it ran!.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then it caught fire.:o

 

I had an extinguisher very close by though and it was out in seconds. The fire caused no damage, but it was a pain to clean up the extinguisher powder. the problem was a leaky banjo fitting. the brand new gasket cracked, leaked, and sprayed gas right at the down pipe. No pics of the fire:P , but it was big.

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After clean up, a new banjo gasket, and lots of pumping of the gas she roared to life.you asked for a vid so here it is. the new engine has real snappy throttle response, and revs quick. the oil press gauge was bouncing the whole time so I think my pan holds more oil than I thought. It has 5 quarts in the pan but maybe it holds 6? It's a custom pan and I cant remember what the builder said it holds and the dipstick is impossible to read. going to have to look into that.

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just a few more little loose ends and I will do a 1st drive video!

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YOu still running points?

I see a MSD Blaster coil and a Ballast resistor

If still points the point wont last as long as the Blaster is a .7 ohm coil. stock is 1.6 ohm(per the book)

 

If you have a EI nissan then you can run no ballast with the Blaster coil.

 

If Unilite then you still want stock coil and ballast. I hear the Unilites can pop if to much current

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No points. this motor came with the electronic Unilite, and I am running a blaster coil and ballast all hooked up as per the instructions. are you saying the unilite dizzy will be damaged with an aftermarket coil? I would find it strange that an aftermarket dizzy couldn't be used with an aftermarket coil, but if you have heard different I will look into it. With the previous motor I was running a pertronix converted dizzy with this same blaster coil and ballast and it was fine.

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If you read the Unilite(opital trigger) instruction it will say use the stock set up. Meaning the stock coil and ballast.

The Pertronix will say the same thing(under 4 amps total current). Use the stock coil and ballast( or resisitive wire in the car). a stock 510 at 1.6ohm coil and 1.6 ohm ballast = 3.75amp@12volts

 

Now I have seen them run as you have it. But Just to let you know your running more current thru the sysytem than really it was design for. YOurs will be 12volt /2.3ohms(.7 coil+1.6ballast) =5.21 amps

 

Back in the day when I was on here There was a guy who ran Uniltes and carry a spare module Go thru them once a year.I reasearched this and found that it wants the stock high resistive POINT sytem. Meaning the unilite is Conversion(maybe with a better curve if you have the whole dizzy(there is Unilite conversions just for the dizzy also)

Unilites will have a remote box but I cant see it on yours.

 

running at 14 volts wil be slightly higher but you get my drift on this .

 

SO IF

car stop running ck for spark at coil.

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I'm not trying to argue with you, as I appreciate your experience, but the install instructions state that this unilite dizzy will work with stock OR "high performance aftermarket coils". The instructions also say that the dizzy can be installed with OR without the control box. Instructions did stress the need the use the ballast resistor, and said that eliminating it would cause premature failure. The issue that your talking about may be an oversight by the manufacturer though, maybe they never updated their install instructions? Either way if this thing craps out on me I will just use the pertronix dizzy from the old motor.:thumbup:

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  • 4 weeks later...

I finally got the new cap and rotor in the mail. Took it for a spin around the block. It's a beast! I still need a lot of tuning tho. I can't get it to idle, the idle screws are 4 turns out and still not even close to idling. It also has a real bad stumble. I'm thinking the pump jet is too small, they are 35 and the Haynes book suggests 45 for a 2.0. The idle jet is a 60 and the book suggests 50 tho. Kinda confused, feels like idle jets are still too small. Any ideas?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a little update, I gues when installing the motor I bumped the dizzy and knocked the timing way out, that's why it wouldn't idle. Finally found what I thought was maybe the sweet spot and took it for a drive but it died right at the end of the driveway! Turns out I forgot to put the clamps back on the dizzy cap and as it fell off it sheared the carbon electrode off the inside of he cap! This is 4th broken one I have had in two weeks! ( but the first that was my fault) so I ordered 2 replacements. Really irritated that I couldn't take it for a drive on one of those sunny days we just had. Oh well, just waiting for the fed ex guy now...

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  • 2 months later...

Got the car running decent, been driving it around on weekends. I plan on getting an Innovate o2 air/fuel gauge to get things fine tuned. Today I reminded myself why I don't do body work. I tried to prime, block, and paint my spare fender. It looks terrible, lots of scratches. Oh well, it will be OK till I get a real paint job. hopefully I get it installed tomorrow. photo-40.jpg

I have been tired of the ugly paint on the center of my rims so I picked up a few colors to try. I tried "ford argent silver" first and it was ugly, looked like fake chrome.I tried this one next and I like it way better, I already forgot the name of the color tho...photo-39.jpg

On Saturday i picked went to pick n pull for half off day and got some KYB struts off a 88 subaru. I'm going to make some coilovers for the rear end. I got the idea in the how-to section.photo-41.jpg

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Good progress! I wanna here that beast!

 

I've been looking at the Innovate stuff but have been turned off by the problems they have with the LM-2 and the way they handle it. They have gone so far has to close the support forum they had. The O2 stuff they sell is good from everything I've read.

 

I'll be going with Zeitronix when I make a buy.

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  • 5 months later...

Well I had lots of upgrades lined up for when I had more time but I just started the car for the first time in a few weeks and she has a nasty rattle that sounded like a bearing to me, just like a when you spin a loose threaded nut onto a bolt, and it speeds up with revs. I pulled the fan belt to eliminate the alt. and water pump and it wasn't them. I think it's the throwout bearing but I'm not sure, it's a Timkin, only has about 200 miles on it, and I greased it up before install... I hope it's not rod bearings or something like that. Anyway I picked up an Innovate O2 air/fuel gauge, and a 4:11 geared R160 diff to swap in, but they will have to wait on figuring out this rattle. any ideas?

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that sucks

 

you'd know right away if it was a rod-bearing(s).

 

Heat shield somewhere ?

Timing chain related ?

Dropped a tool/bolt nut on cross-member or between header/exhaust ?

Flywheel lower Cover ? ( if there's one )

Valve-train pieces ? ( retaining spring fell off ,,, loose/out of spec ,,, etc )

 

If you whole heartedly suspect rod-knock

You can pull off one spark plug wire at a time

, and listen to see if rattle/knock intensity decreases slightly ,,, on that cylinder ,,,

if it does ,,,well ,,, :unsure: ,,,

 

Hopefully you have excellent oil pressure and a really wet head ( after vc is pulled )

 

good luck

 

Nice... 510 :cool:

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  • 3 months later...

Time for updates! I figured out the rattle. My flywheel bolts came loose! I thought I torqued em down to spec but I guess not. Put it all together with lock-tite this time. Once that was fixed I installed my Innovate Wide band AFR gauge.

 

 

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Now I need to get this thing tuned. I'm going to post a thread in the engines section to get some help from the tuning gurus.

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  • 4 months later...

A few little things to up date. I had a big oil leak that stemmed from the pressure gauge line so I went to Belfair hose out by the Bremerton airport and they made me a custom hose. Super nice guy and it was fast and way cheap. This way I don't have to worry about those cheesy plastic ones breaking and it looks real clean. I also swapped my no name oil filter for a Wix and noticed that my oil PSI doesn't fluctuate like it used to. I think the old filter was cavitating, causing the pressure to bounce from 20-35 psi. Another reason to use a quality filter.

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