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datzenmike

U joint replacement

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Hey thanks for the writeup mike. I have a couple questions. Is it best to replace all 3 at once? Or is it more of a "don't fix won't ain't broke"?

Also on the transmission side of the drive shaft, will anything leak out once I slide out the shaft? Thanks!

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You can change them as needed. Only reason to do them all at once is there is less chance another one will fail and you don't have to remove everything all over again in 3 months to do the other one(s). Hell I've pulled one from an old used driveshaft in my shed and slapped it on my truck. I had time but no money.

 

Try to get the ones that you grease. More expensive but also more peace of mind.

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Yea you are right. Might as well do them all at the same time. I noticed rockauto lists them all as the same part number. Ordered all three. And will do them next weekend. So does anything leak out of the transmission side when the shaft is pulled out?

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YUP, it will leak a bit unless you have the rear end jacked up for D/S removal.  Put an oil drip pan under there when you pull the slip yoke out.  Might as well replace the tail shaft seal while you're at it.

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YUP, it will leak a bit unless you have the rear end jacked up for D/S removal.  Put an oil drip pan under there when you pull the slip yoke out.  Might as well replace the tail shaft seal while you're at it.

 

Oil may or may not run out. If you raise it do so from the back so it's easier to get at the drive shaft to remove. If on a lift expect some dripping. If raised from the front maybe drain transmission.

 

Yes, replace the seal. It's only $3 and just pry out with screw driver and place 2x4 chunk over new one and hammer in.

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Alright I finally got around to doing this. Took quite a while beating the old caps off the joints. One of them looked original. Installed the new ones but I think I might have messed up on one. After pressing the joint together, it was a bit difficult to move that joint. Took more effort to rotate it than the other two. Should I be worried? Also I couldn't replace my rear seal. I compared the old to my new one from rockauto and it looks different

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The new ones may be thinner front to back. This will allow it to be driven farther into the tail. The reason? it will now be running on a fresh new surface that has never been used. Always grease or oil the new seal so that it does not start up dry.

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Think they are now in the right order.

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No welding. You will never get it exactly in place and the drive shaft will wobble and vibrate. Find the correct ones for it and preferably with a grease fitting to make them last longer.

 

Original U Joints normally have the grease fitting as part of the hub.  Aftermarket U Joints usually have the grease fitting at the top of one of the cross member Tees.  As long as the replacement has been designed to compensate for this apparent imbalance design you should have no problem!  Just remember to mark the input and output shaft and yoke alignment positions carefully and you should have no drive shaft balance problems.

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Pics don't work anymore, Mike can you re-host?  

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Eventually. I'm waiting to see which way it goes. 

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