Bullet_theory Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 As of now we are having problems with the engine idling (and the full RPM range at times) with a constant fuel mixture. If I tune it to 14.7ish at idle it will stay there for a bit then decide it wants to slowly lean out until it finally starts to die. Then after doing somewhat of a base tune (setting it a little fat to be safe) it decides on the next to pulls it's going to lean out. So maybe the injectors are sticking, or maybe the fuel pump isn't pumping a constant flow, or maybe the FPR is fucked up. Something is defiantly not right. My EFI turbo L will idle at pretty constant fuel mixture of 15 until I decide to shut her down or drive. I've let it idle for 20 min and never had any issues. Dave's car is the same way, it's a bit on the fatter side but that's another story all together. So we will have to mess around with the fuel delivery system in the week to come. Hopefully it's not as hard to figure out as the spark problem was, fuck that wasn't right! haha It's way way harder than making any stock EFI engine run that's for sure. Its fun to install but takes time to set everything up correctly. I've been having a real tough time with Chriss's car. When working with all junkyard parts it can be tricky though. All the parts can be suspects when it doesn't run properly. get an Arduino Duemilanove (diy freeware microcontroller), use it as a "stimulator" for input (to test the megasquirt DIY ECU). The arduino has a microcontroller to generate a tach frequency (which is adjustable with some potentiometers). This stimulator does not have it's own 5v regulator so a little input circuit using a PNP transistor to switch the interrupt (pin2) between Arduino's 5v and Gnd (with a pullup on the 5v side of things) will work. Just apply the 12v tach output from the arduino to the base to switch. Feed this input to some code (like increment simulating a dizzy) on every interrupt and then reads the number of pulses every 200ms (after which it resets the count) and you shouldnt get some very average numbers. ....second thought, if your having issues with mega squirt, you probably shouldnt leap into basic programming..... Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 get an Arduino Duemilanove (diy freeware microcontroller), use it as a "stimulator" for input (to test the megasquirt DIY ECU). The arduino has a microcontroller to generate a tach frequency (which is adjustable with some potentiometers). This stimulator does not have it's own 5v regulator so a little input circuit using a PNP transistor to switch the interrupt (pin2) between Arduino's 5v and Gnd (with a pullup on the 5v side of things) will work. Just apply the 12v tach output from the arduino to the base to switch. Feed this input to some code (like increment simulating a dizzy) on every interrupt and then reads the number of pulses every 200ms (after which it resets the count) and you shouldnt get some very average numbers. ....second thought, if your having issues with mega squirt, you probably shouldnt leap into basic programming..... Dude I hooked it to the Jim Stem and she worked like a champ. I think it's mechanical not electrical. Possibly a bad sensor. Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Well we have an update on this now...... Some good news and some bad. We have got it running pretty good. The mega squirt works like a champ along with my crazy intake set up. So now the bad, when it idles around 800-900 rpm it sounds like shit and really does not want to idle well at all. So we were messing around and did a compression test. THe middle 2 cylinders are at 200 and the outside 2 are at 150. We put some oil in the cylinders and rechecked and they shot up to match the middle 2. So now i am trying to decide if i want to find another good running motor or just rebuild the one I have......It does suck to finially get the EFI working pretty good and now the motor is going.....but this does explain why the car ran the way it did while it still had a carb. Quote Link to comment
Pumpkn210 Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 I just wanna tell you both... Quote Link to comment
Bullet_theory Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Well we have an update on this now...... Some good news and some bad. We have got it running pretty good. The mega squirt works like a champ along with my crazy intake set up. So now the bad, when it idles around 800-900 rpm it sounds like shit and really does not want to idle well at all. So we were messing around and did a compression test. THe middle 2 cylinders are at 200 and the outside 2 are at 150. We put some oil in the cylinders and rechecked and they shot up to match the middle 2. So now i am trying to decide if i want to find another good running motor or just rebuild the one I have......It does suck to finially get the EFI working pretty good and now the motor is going.....but this does explain why the car ran the way it did while it still had a carb. wow... that sucks, good luck man... so what way are you leaning, rebuild or replace? Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 wow... that sucks, good luck man... so what way are you leaning, rebuild or replace? Well i could go either way right now. If I can find one thats in good shape that would be the easiest. But if I rebuild the one I have I know exactaly what i have and its done correctly. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 Yeah we finally got the idle down to 800ish, but damn it just idles so... so.. rough. It actually sounds kinda cool but not when you know it's not supposed to be sounding that way :) I still want to mess with the tune more but the blow by is just killing us! Very stinky. I think Chriss should either rebuild a separate one and swap it in when it's ready or find a used good running. I think with some more work we could get it drivable without to much stink. The more we tinker the better it's been getting. His neighbor Dan gave us a few ideas and we have a few of our own to get ride of the stink and hopefully get it running a bit better. Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted April 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 here are some pics of the tear down. Not sure what to do from here. The pistons have 1.50 stamped in them. I assume that means they are .060 oversize. But i have not measured them yet. THe head is a W53. I may take the block and the head to a shop and have it rebuilt....... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 So hard to tell on a picture ... but those look like closed chambers or peanut. These might just be 60 over L20B pistons with the 11cc dish. Compression (assuming closed chamber head and 11.36cc dish pistons) is 9.14 way better. If by some chance they are open chamber it would be 8.6 . Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Well its been a long road getting here.....But it finially runs and runs well. After a bunch of problems with the original MS computer, Jeff built a new one and it works. We must have fried the first one some how. After getting the motor rebuilt its nice to hear it run. Still have some work to do, but this comming weekend it should be driving for tunning purposes anyways...... Fresh motor looking all nice and clean. And here is video proof.....and also something Icehouse picked up. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 YOU GOT A 1200 UTE!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Holy crap............. Oh ya. good job on the L20B. Sounds sooooooo smooth. Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted August 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 YOU GOT A 1200 UTE!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Holy crap............. Oh ya. good job on the L20B. Sounds sooooooo smooth. The 1200 is Jeff's new toy.......It is a kick in the ass to drive and i wish it was mine Quote Link to comment
Pumpkn210 Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Ive heard alot of good things, bout these things we see here! Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 That's what I meant. Come on Jeff, how many projects are you going to have going at the same time? I would love to see some video of that L20 going down the road. I bet that thing just puuuuuurrrrrrrrrrs. Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Well finially my car is off the jack stands and moving under its own power.... It has been a long drawn out process but I have managed to move forward. I had a bunch of issues with the clutch, the one that was in the car had loose rivets on the pressure plate... That was fun to figure out. So I went and got a new kit put it in and it doesn't work, now I am like WTF???? The trans comes back out again, now this is where my lack of datsun knowledge comes in. I didn't realize that there are so many different thickness pressure plates. So after 2 more trips to the auto parts and a variety of different length throw out bearing collars (thanks Jeff) i got the right combo. Weather stripping and such Got new weather stripping on the drivers door done, three more to go. Got the hatch done also which is nice, now there is no more water collecting in the back. Put new window channel felt in now i can hear everything else rattle that I couldn't hear before. Now onto my tunning Saturday Got the laptop hooked it up and was all excited then i found out my tunning software needed an update and i still do not have internet at home. So off to everett I go. Sunday Driving went pretty good, I was out for about 45minutes when all of the sudden the car leans out and dies. Now I am not happy.....Well to make a long story short I ran out of gas, but the damn float was stuck at half a tank.... Now I feel like and idiot but hey what are you going to do. Put gas in then I drive to the gas station to fill it up. Get it filled up then i notice there is gas coming from places it shouldn't...... Upon further investigation the gasket around the sending unit hole is not that great. So as it stands I am still learning how to use the software, but I am making progress. It hesitates in third gear the most. Seems to be getting to much fuel. I have some more research to do on this. Hopefully next weekend i can get someone to ride with me to take some video..... Well thats my story for today. Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Any updates on this righteous project! Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 updates, i know you have some! update right meow! :lol: Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted January 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 updates, i know you have some! update right meow! :lol: Well, its been slow going..... But i am starting to figure out the software. I have been tunning it off and on. Still have to figure out the cold start stuff, it runs like shit until its warmed up. On the plus side it does run pretty good out driving around. I have found that the auto tune function works but if the #s are off by a bunch it takes for ever to get where it should be. So as I drive, I try to look at the air fuel #s and make a mental note of what needs to be changed....Which is some what difficult because I have a 15 inch screen and the car does not exactly drive straight down the road. I pull over change them and continue on. Now This weekend i finially got the car back in the garage, and have some goodies I am putting on next weekend. New ball joints, tie rod ends. Then hopefully it will drive a bit straighter. I will also try and make some 2 inch lowering blocks for it this weekend. And of course I have some coilovers with camber plates I will have to install also. But I still have to get inserts for those. Not to mention i have to cut down the tubes also.... I will probably get new shocks for the rear while i am at it. So it will be a busy weekend for me. I will take pics as I go..... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Sounds like your getting it all dialed in. :) Did you get all moved into your new place? Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted January 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 yep, all moved and settled in..... Not sure if we will stay more than a year but, we shall see Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 haha! i knew there was an update hiding, cant wait to see the new suspension parts on the goon. Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 well after a bunch of learning here we go...... ( can one of the mods move this thread to project datto.....its turning more of overall project thread) Learned a bunch.... Strut inserts, the ends had to be turned down to fit thru the sphereical bearings on the top end. I turned them down .625 they fit great. The problem was that i turned them down to far in length. Basically where they were stock. So now the top of the strut came thru the sphereical bearing, so i had to use some spaces underneath to fix that. I didn't take any pics of this. But what I got was called 5/8 collar. Got them at the arlington hardware store. Got the rotors turned all new bearings two.... Got this done at the arlington napa, got talking to the guy that did them. And it turns out he is a datsun guy to. He has a 1969 1200 with a rotorary in it. It was his highschool project in puerto rico. He had not heard of ratsun so i gave him a card, hopefully he signs up. Got 2 inch lowering blocks in the back with new shocks. New tie rod ends, ball joints up front. Drove it around for about 2 hours on sunday with my brother doing some tunning for me, which is so much easier and faster then trying to watch where i am driving and the computer...... Got it running really well now. So as we were driving around my oil light came on.....Got home checked it out, the copper washer for the drain plug was not doing its job. Replaced it, but now the oil light will not turn off. Could be the sensor, or the oil pump. Not sure which at this point. But I am going to replace the filter and sensor to start with. Don't think the pick up tube in the oil pan is clogged. But who knows at this point. So as of now its parked back in the garage until this weekend.... So now it drives straight down the road, and now I don't have to wear a kidney belt while driving it.... I had it about 1/2 inch lower in the front but the tires were rubbing.....Now on to the pics Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 well after a bunch of learning here we go...... ( can one of the mods move this thread to project datto.....its turning more of overall project thread) Learned a bunch.... Strut inserts, the ends had to be turned down to fit thru the sphereical bearings on the top end. I turned them down .625 they fit great. The problem was that i turned them down to far in length. Basically where they were stock. So now the top of the strut came thru the sphereical bearing, so i had to use some spaces underneath to fix that. I didn't take any pics of this. But what I got was called 5/8 collar. Got them at the arlington hardware store. Got the rotors turned all new bearings two.... Got this done at the arlington napa, got talking to the guy that did them. And it turns out he is a datsun guy to. He has a 1969 1200 with a rotorary in it. It was his highschool project in puerto rico. He had not heard of ratsun so i gave him a card, hopefully he signs up. Got 2 inch lowering blocks in the back with new shocks. New tie rod ends, ball joints up front. Drove it around for about 2 hours on sunday with my brother doing some tunning for me, which is so much easier and faster then trying to watch where i am driving and the computer...... Got it running really well now. So as we were driving around my oil light came on.....Got home checked it out, the copper washer for the drain plug was not doing its job. Replaced it, but now the oil light will not turn off. Could be the sensor, or the oil pump. Not sure which at this point. But I am going to replace the filter and sensor to start with. Don't think the pick up tube in the oil pan is clogged. But who knows at this point. So as of now its parked back in the garage until this weekend.... So now it drives straight down the road, and now I don't have to wear a kidney belt while driving it.... I had it about 1/2 inch lower in the front but the tires were rubbing.....Now on to the pics Figured out that the oil sensor was bad, it is now replaced with an oil pressure gauge....... Quote Link to comment
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