CA18DET problem (NEW Problem, NEW video post #1)

[Unclejesse88]

.. i know its flooding out because when i save it from dying it would shoot out blue smoke.

 

I could have sworn blue smoke was burning oil, and excess fuel was black smoke.

[NCRmtrsprts510]

ill spray for vacuum leaks today and do a pressure test on the pipes.

 

it doesnt smoke when it idles, it only smoked right before it died because the maf was too close to the turbo.

[Icehouse]

Something is defiantly wrong with a sensor. Any engine should run sweet with the MAF unplugged. Idle air sounds like it's messed up or a vacuum leak. I'm with SSSR20DIME spray the intake and all the piping. I made a pressure gauge to check for leaks with soapy water.

[NCRmtrsprts510]

ok i did a spray test on everysingle coupler and vacuum connection and no idle spikes at all.

 

Im working on building a pressure tester.

 

when i unplug the maf the idle will drop down to almost dying and start running very rough.

 

BUT i was looking over the wiring for the AAC and the fsm is saying the wiring for the AAC is Brown and it goes 12v-fuse-o2-aac-ecu.

 

and the wiring diagram i followed:

 

so far i moved the Air Regulator which is the BLACK/YELLOW Wire to the fuel pump, because that is where the air regulator is in the factory harness. but that didnt make a difference when it was on the IGN relay.

 

so the only wires i have going to the IGN relay, are the BROWN which is o2 and AAC (idle air control), the BLACK/RED Wire for main ign power, and the BLUE/RED thick wire, which is not only for the SR but CA too.

 

so do you guys think that maybe the AAC is not getting enough voltage to regulate the idle? because when i unplug the AAC it idles correctly, and seems to run better. and i think there are even some people who block off the AAC. but i dont know.

[Icehouse]

Do you have the PDF of the wiring? If so Email it to Datsunlb110@hotmail.com and I will take a look at it.

[sssr20det510]

unplugging the maf shouldnt make it try and die. Ive unplugged mine a few times it just wont rev over 2500, did you lengthen the maf wires if so double check the wirering

[NCRmtrsprts510]

yea i have the pdf i will email it to you.

 

yes i lenthened the AFM wires, but i made sure when i did it they went to the same wires, i labeled both sides of the wires and even did a continuity test to make sure.

[sssr20det510]

yea i have the pdf i will email it to you.

 

yes i lenthened the AFM wires, but i made sure when i did it they went to the same wires, i labeled both sides of the wires and even did a continuity test to make sure.

 

i would re check it to the wiring

A - Green/Yellow - not used

B - Black/White - 12v

C - Black - ground

D - Green/Black - 0-5v signal wire

[sssr20det510]

Have you checked for codes??? also when you did the spray test did you check injectors and intake gasket

[NCRmtrsprts510]

i would re check it to the wiring

A - Green/Yellow - not used

B - Black/White - 12v

C - Black - ground

D - Green/Black - 0-5v signal wire

 

 

I am using the green/yellow wire...... it says to use the gree/yellow for models without catalyzer.... and in the wiring harness there is a green/yellow wire that was with all the other maf wires.... so should i cut that wire out?

[sssr20det510]

I am using the green/yellow wire...... it says to use the gree/yellow for models without catalyzer.... and in the wiring harness there is a green/yellow wire that was with all the other maf wires.... so should i cut that wire out?

 

on my sr there is only 3 , cut it see if it changes you can always hook it back up. Id check to make sure you have 12v and ground as well as ref signal all working at the plug

[NCRmtrsprts510]

i have a feeling that it is the Auxilary Air control, because if i leave it unplugged for about 30 seconds when i plug it back in, the idle will only go up about 100rpms and stay there for about 10-15 seconds before shooting back up to 1500rpms.

 

do u think i can just run my car without the aac?

[NCRmtrsprts510]

got a new problem (look at post #1), yesterday after boosting it just starting running like shit and would hardly rev up and had no power and would spit and sputter and wouldnt idle and would dump out either white or blue smoke.. BUT when i unplug the maf it will run much better and will still idle rough but will rev up a little smoother until 2k like it should, so im thinking that it is for sure the MAF. compression is good on all cylinders.

 

i think my MAF is maxing out.

[NCRmtrsprts510]

i got a new maf (n60) and a safc-2, and its still running rich, but if correct the airflow signal sent to the computer by the safc by -15% to -20% it will start running better and smoother and not smoke, but idle higher, but -20% is a big correction at idle.

 

also if i rev it up it and let it come back down to idle, it will idle smoothly at 1200rpm for about 3 seconds then drop down to 700rpm and start running completely rich and smoking. (this is at a 0% correction with the safc)

 

sparkplugs:

my god, gotta get some new ones after its running correctly, its all soot, i wiped them off and cleaned them, but its def running rich

[NCRmtrsprts510]

problem fixed thanks for all the help guys!! :P

[srt4monster]

sorry to bump such an old thread but what was the problem?

[NCRmtrsprts510]

sorry about that, it was just a blown IC piping coupler, on the boost side, that was out of view, found it when i started tearing stuff apart to figure it out.