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CA18DET problem (NEW Problem, NEW video post #1)

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my ca18det idles high around 1200-1500rpms, if i rev it past 3000rpms, when the rpms come down the engine floods out and dies if i dont open the throttle again.

 

but if i save it from dying it will just idle the same between 1200-1500rpms.

 

Here is some of the troubleshooting i have done so far

Air Regulator - OK

Idle Switch - OK

Air Flow Meter - OK

Throttle Position Sensor - OK

AAC - OK

No Vacuum Leaks

 

FIXED ^^^ ran good for a while

 

NEW Problem!!!!!!!!! running EXTREMELY rich i believe. here is a video theres a huge spot on the ground with the black soot where the exhaust is. FPR is at 35 when idling rough, probably cause there is not a steady vacuum, on engine decel tho its at 28 and when maf is unplugged its at 28 when its idling smoother. when its spitting and sputtering, that is when i just have the throttle about 1/3 open. it will rev past 2k but will continue to sputter

 

 

th_datrunshit2.jpg

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Clamp the hose to the air regulator to be sure. It's purpose is to increase engine idle at warm up. Check the hose for splits or leaks. Do this on the hose from the air meter to the throttle chamber too as they are getting old by now.

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Clamp the hose to the air regulator to be sure. It's purpose is to increase engine idle at warm up. Check the hose for splits or leaks. Do this on the hose from the air meter to the throttle chamber too as they are getting old by now.

 

Yea i did that, i clamped every hose to the regulator and it didnt make a difference, and i even did a fsm test to it by hooking it up to a direct 12v source and wait for the thermal to heat up close the valve, and it does work properly. And the hoses are all fine with no cracks or tears.

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Does it have a blow off valve? Sounds like it's adjusted to loose. Which could trow off fuel mixture increasing idling, then flooding it. Just my guess.

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i tightened the bov all the way and it even still dies, and when i loosen it, it still dies.

 

Video -

 

th_datrunningshit.jpg

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Dude you need a longer pipe in front of the turbo going to the MAF. It's going to get a false reading. The MAF's also can't have air forced through them. Basically the suck :)

 

Your fuel pressure is also to low. should be around 44 unplugged from the mani.

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Dude you need a longer pipe in front of the turbo going to the MAF. It's going to get a false reading. The MAF's also can't have air forced through them. Basically the suck :)

 

Your fuel pressure is also to low. should be around 44 unplugged from the mani.

 

but would that really cause it to die like that? i mean i would think that maybe it would make the rpm jump around, but not completely die.

 

the ca18det FSM says the fuel pressure should be 28psi w/ vacuum and 36psi w/ vacuum unplugged.

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You need to have more piping in between the turbo and maf, id up the fp and see if that changes anything, also if your vented to the atmospher it can cause it to die what kind of bov do you have.

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You need to have more piping in between the turbo and maf, id up the fp and see if that changes anything, also if your vented to the atmospher it can cause it to die what kind of bov do you have.

 

 

ill try to put some more pipe on today, and if the engine is flooding out, why would i up the fp? lol and yes my bov is vented to the atmo its a cxracing bov, it came with my intercooler piping kit.

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why does it sound like you have an exhaust leak??

 

 

i only a downpipe off the turbo. it ends at the bottom of the firewall.

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ill try to put some more pipe on today, and if the engine is flooding out, why would i up the fp? lol and yes my bov is vented to the atmo its a cxracing bov, it came with my intercooler piping kit.

 

if you have a cheap bov that is staying open too long it can cause it to mess with af and cause it to die when coming to an idle if not recirrculated. and how do you know its flooding out???

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if you have a cheap bov that is staying open too long it can cause it to mess with af and cause it to die when coming to an idle if not recirrculated. and how do you know its flooding out???

 

does it have to be recirrculated? but ok so the dying problem was having the maf too close because i just ran it with a long tube and it didnt die once so thanks guys for figuring that out, i took off the AAC and it was dirty as hell, so i completely cleaned it and put it back on and now its idling around 1400-1700rpms, even higher now, WTF!

 

when i disconnect the AAC it idles at about 800rpm, but as soon as i plug it in it goes up, if i clamp off the air regular nothing happens, if i clamp off the hose to the AAC it goes down to about 500rpms.. i know its flooding out because when i save it from dying it would shoot out blue smoke.

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Prob have a bad iac, its prob stuck try banging on it while idling

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Prob have a bad iac, its prob stuck try banging on it while idling

 

iac is the same thing as the aac, i believe.

IAA.jpg

^^^^ that right? i cleaned that whole assembly today.

 

This is what I have been going off of in the FSM:

IDLESPEEDCONTROL.jpg

and

HIGHIDLEDIAGNOS.jpg

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Ya idle air control valve or motor, if the motor sticks it can cause high idle

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Now that I think about it u might have a bad coolant temp sensor telling the ecu its cold and needs to idle higher that would explain why it drops when u unplug the iac

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Now that I think about it u might have a bad coolant temp sensor telling the ecu its cold and needs to idle higher that would explain why it drops when u unplug the iac

 

 

just checked the ohm reading for the temp sensor and it checks out OK, right ohms when it warms up and when its cool, so its not that, and i even checked the connector to the ecu pin to see if it was grounding out somewhere, but it isnt. both the sender wire and the ground check out ok.

 

when idling and i unplug the engine temp sender i can hear the rpm drop a tiny bit, but i think thats because of the fail-safe mode.

 

you know what, i havent checked the timing yet........

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How does it run with the MAF unplugged? Does it idle better that way? Always nice to rule out the MAF. What about vacuum leaks? Bottom of the throttle body sometimes has hidden vacuum lines. Where did you pipe in your IAA aka IACV? How are the grounds on the engine, faulty ECU grounds can do weird shit. You didn't accidentally power up the AC idle up did you? That can jump the idle.

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I'm not sure how the iac is set up on the ca but on the sr the big vacuum line goes to the cold side intercooler pipe? Also make sure the throttle plate is closing and cable isn't too tight.

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How does it run with the MAF unplugged? Does it idle better that way? Always nice to rule out the MAF. What about vacuum leaks? Bottom of the throttle body sometimes has hidden vacuum lines. Where did you pipe in your IAA aka IACV? How are the grounds on the engine, faulty ECU grounds can do weird shit. You didn't accidentally power up the AC idle up did you? That can jump the idle.

 

runs worse with the MAF unplugged.

 

ive looked where everysingle vacuum line is in the fsm, and all of them are either capped or being used.

 

iacv? ill check all my grounds, but im pretty sure everything is grounded. the AC is not on, because even if i unplug it nothing happens.

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I'm not sure how the iac is set up on the ca but on the sr the big vacuum line goes to the cold side intercooler pipe? Also make sure the throttle plate is closing and cable isn't too tight.

 

yea that is how the iac is hooked up, it is a big vacuum line that is going to the coldside, then there is a tee, one goes to iac and one to the air regulator, thats how it was factory. throttle cable is loose.

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