datzenmike Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 I have an electrical block diagram of the tranny parts (on/off overdrive, kick down etc.) and control box. Maybe it could be wired to fool it? 1 Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Here's the link, with another link for his build thread in the last post. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/35934-ka24e-with-automatic/page__st__20 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 This is to connect to an existing EFI's ECU. What about a carb engine??? 1 Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 That's all I have. It looks like the E trans needs input from the motor ecu. Maybe you could look into the conquest/starion 4n71b. Maybe they are not E. Just swap bellhousings if an L motor. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 I'm pretty sure I kept the L bell from the '84 Maxima. Looks like the later ones all had a control box. I'm looking at a D21 auto and the control box is under the pass seat. Was hoping to just swap the bell and go. 1 Quote Link to comment
ghammer Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Hey, thanks for quick response about the od switch wiring. I think i'll just leave it unwired, can't really see why i'd want to turn off 4th gear? I'll go back to PNP and double check for the crank spacer, but I know I grabbed the back of the crankshaft and nothing was there. Nothing like rolling around in the toxic sludge during the rainy season...... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 The od can be turned off for passing and hill climbing. 1 Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 agree, and also for in city driving otherwise it will be lugging around town. I don't recall at what speed the od kicks in, but is too low speed to use constantly in town. 1 Quote Link to comment
ghammer Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 Ugh! Tried shoehorning in the trans today.......like putting 10lbs of rocking horse crap in a 5lb sack. If the torsion bar crossmember wasn't there it would be no problem. Just not enough real estate under the little truck. I figured i'd either have to remove the flexplate to get trans to slip up past bottom of engine, then bolt it back on between what little to no room there is between engine and trans, or break engine loose and pull it forward. Then bolt everything back together to see if there is enough room to fabricate a new crossmember. This is just my luck lately! Ha ha! Maybe i'll just settle for a 5-speed......really liked the overdrive ratio in 4th gear compared to the manual though...... Looks like it's time to sell trans to recoop some of my $$$ 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 No problem. Put the trans in separately from the engine, like the factory service manual shows. 1 Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted December 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 No problem. Put the trans in separately from the engine, like the factory service manual shows. (Wow...I need to check my threads more often...) Yes. Exactly. I installed my transmission separate from the engine. Up and into the tunnel, then aligned everything. Verify you are centered between the frame rails. I found mine is between 7-9mm off center, and it affects the driveshaft angle (I would find this out the hard way...and I am still driving it). I just have vibration at 55mph to 60 mph...just go faster to overcome that, I guess... 1 Quote Link to comment
ghammer Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Maybe i'm being misunderstood. I tried installing the trans separately. The engine is still sitting in engine bay though. The 4spd auto is so much larger towards the rear of the trans versus the 3spd auto, that it runs out of real estate when going into the trans tunnel. Of course the trans tunnel cover is removed to allow more room. With the angle you have to put the trans at to try and slip in there, the tail shaft is protruding through the opening in the floor and the trans body is actually wedged against the floor and crossmember. Has anyone actually put one of these in a 620 before or am I in uncharted territory? I might give it one more shot to see if it can be squeezed between the engine and crossmember. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 This topic.is about putting it in a car (510/610/710) which has a removable crossmember. It doesnt work with a stock crossmember. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Getting a 4 or 5 speed out of a '74 and up 620 is very difficult but it can be done, just barely. The automatic L4N71B is about an inch longer than the 3N71B so this isn't good. Try removing the exhaust pipe from the manifold and drop it down. 1 Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Maybe i'm being misunderstood. I tried installing the trans separately. The engine is still sitting in engine bay though. The 4spd auto is so much larger towards the rear of the trans versus the 3spd auto, that it runs out of real estate when going into the trans tunnel. Of course the trans tunnel cover is removed to allow more room. With the angle you have to put the trans at to try and slip in there, the tail shaft is protruding through the opening in the floor and the trans body is actually wedged against the floor and crossmember. Has anyone actually put one of these in a 620 before or am I in uncharted territory? I might give it one more shot to see if it can be squeezed between the engine and crossmember. You are in uncharted territory my friend... 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 plannin on doing this with a 620 as well, here comes the learning curve.... 1 Quote Link to comment
ghammer Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Woo-hoo! Uncharted territory...I seem to have a way of doing this to myself especially on my own cars. I'll try one more time and give an update after the weekend. For reference, I do have the exhaust unbolted and the torsion bars removed for all the clearance I can get. 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 might be time for the ford tool..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Large hammer? 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Indeed, wurx good fer bangin metle out the way... 1 Quote Link to comment
ghammer Posted December 10, 2012 Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 Well.....gave it the ol' college try again today. I even broke out the Ford tools....I have multiple sizes up to 10lbs. I removed the flexplate from the back of the engine and still could not get the trans to clear the bottom of the engine. The engine needs to be broke loose at the engine mounts and either moved up or forward to just get the trans in. And this would need to be repeated every single time the trans would need to be removed or installed....which would be multiple times for the initial swap. I was hoping for a simpler process as i'm trying to get it back on the road quickly. If the cab was off of the frame would be much easier. But that's not the case for me. So, i'll just have to settle for a 5 speed. That....I know will be a quick swap. Anyone need an AOD trans? LOL! 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 10, 2012 Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 You are trying to fit a ford AOD in there? Why not use the nissan 4N71?? If you've gotten this far, why not cut the Trans crossmember and bolt it back in with 4 large bolts 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 Aod as in automatic overdrive. And if the price is right and extra one under the bench wouldnt hurt 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 3N71B at bottom The length difference is about an inch but the main body of the 3N71B is moved to the rear by the 4th gear section width of the L4N71B above it (between the bell and the main body, top of picture) The L4N71B has a shorter tail but the thicker main body is back there. No doubt that there is clearance issues. A truck is even worse with a welded in cross member for the torsion bars and tranny mount on it. If you've gotten this far, why not cut the Trans crossmember and bolt it back in with 4 large bolts This is better than it sounds if you cut as far right and left as possible and weld something in place to support it then some bolts. This isn't just a tranny mount... it has to hold up the torsion bars too!!! I still think the floor will need a massage for clearance.. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 Got it. AOD is a ford trademark for thier first 4-speed automatic. 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.