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charge light question


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I have a question about my charge light.At idle im getting 14 or so volts at the battery but the charge light is on.At about 3000 rpm the charge light goes off and im still getting about 14 volts at battery.Im not having any problems with any of the electrical on the car and believe its charging the battery fine.Sometimes it sits for a week or two and it will start right up.The charge light being on is more of nuisance than anything i just want to make sure there isnt a problem with something else.Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated,thanks.

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Its a Datsun thing

and easily (often) remedied with a good contact cleaning.

check the ground where the ALT is.

the sense wire (that triggers the light) may also be the culprit (red w/yellow??? stripe)

 

 

after i fixed the HL relay, the L blinker stopped working occasionally - & now works every time, and the gauge pod lamps arent on only for a few minutes :lol:

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Well,after checking and cleaning connections ive got the same problem.I found another regulator in my shed its got different numbers but the wiring coming out to the connector is all color matched to what is on the car.I installed it .Now the charge light goes off as soon as the motor fires up.My only concern is that the different regulator is ok to use.The one i took out is a Unipoint 23500-29902 TL1Z-61,i replaced it with a 23500-N2200 TL1Z-79.Anybody know anything about these numbers?thanks for the answers,john

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thanks for the reply hainz,the one i took out was the flat one ,i put in one that is much taller and the cover comes off so you can see inside it.i did notice that my amp gauge actually seems to work now,it shows 25 to 30 amps while running,my wipers are like 3 times faster my headlights are brighter and my turn signals blink faster,ive been driving this car for twenty years and always thought that slow wipers and dim headlights were just the way it is on an old car .

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ck every now and then to make sure battery dont OOZ out acid. Sign of cooking the battery. cl water level.

 

I have been noticing my battery oozing water/electrolyte. So does this mean my regulator is shot and also the reason my IGN light is on?

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surf

I would clean the contacks then ut a digutal volt meter on there and run it with everything off.

See what the voltage is and tell us.

Hope everything is hooked up correctly. see what id says. Doesnt mean you see oozing its bad but I would assuem soemthing is going on. Minehas a slow ooz right noe but I run a meter and its OK.

 

If you read higher than say 14.5. unplug the V/R and replug it back in and maybe rescrew it down so it grounds better and see what that does.I have a few V/R and I swap them around to see if they change voltage. I dont know if you have spares.

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I saw Hainz's post about the solid state VR's. I know the application is different, but the principle is the same... I have one in a '70 Chevrolet, and it works great. Nice alternative to converting to a different alternator if you don't need the extra juice for accessories and still have a good alternator.

 

FWIW, I just helped someone out with a "sweating battery".. It tested fine at idle, but at 2K it was off teh scale on the voltmeter. It tested OK in the store, BUT I told them it was off the scale at highway speed, so their machine wasn't turning fast enough for an accurate test. Luckily, they honored their lifetime warranty..Hopefully, we won't need to use the lifetime warranty again in this lifetime, but I have my doubts :P

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surf

I would clean the contacks then ut a digutal volt meter on there and run it with everything off.

See what the voltage is and tell us.

Hope everything is hooked up correctly. see what id says. Doesnt mean you see oozing its bad but I would assuem soemthing is going on. Minehas a slow ooz right noe but I run a meter and its OK.

 

If you read higher than say 14.5. unplug the V/R and replug it back in and maybe rescrew it down so it grounds better and see what that does.I have a few V/R and I swap them around to see if they change voltage. I dont know if you have spares.

new voltage regulator... light is off, battery not spewing, all is good.... Thanks once again hainz

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surf

I would clean the contacks then ut a digutal volt meter on there and run it with everything off.

See what the voltage is and tell us.

Hope everything is hooked up correctly. see what id says. Doesnt mean you see oozing its bad but I would assuem soemthing is going on. Minehas a slow ooz right noe but I run a meter and its OK.

 

If you read higher than say 14.5. unplug the V/R and replug it back in and maybe rescrew it down so it grounds better and see what that does.I have a few V/R and I swap them around to see if they change voltage. I dont know if you have spares.

hainz - i got 13.49 at idle and 14.89 at load... what do you think? this is with new volt reg

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about the solid state VR's

 

YOu still have a external volt reg on your 521 just when I mean solid state its just transisitors/resistors inside.

The old Org nissan and soem other manf still make the old realy type Volt regs. If you ever open one up its has like a coil and a point contack system. The say you can adjust then but I never figired it out. Of you going to get a old style get al least a Japanese unite. Thosw have the usually tall gold color case.

Most sollid state unit are have the size but look the same.

Some other solid state ones are just black.

 

to me 14 .8 is a little on the high side but a true perfect one is like 14.1 volts.But you know its the VR. the proplem changed.

I get my volt regs from Carquest but dotn know if you have them there. Autozone was another. they getting exp now but I bought mine at 20$ apc and like 3 of them. ebay might have soem also cheap of both kinds if cheap enough. Maybe new old stock outthere. also if soembody near by you can just swap it on and see if it changes.

 

rive it around and monitor your stuff. Personally just get one of those unites that show you the voltage and put it in the cig lighter. I know you seen them. so when you drive you can moniter the voltage.

 

as for those techs if at 2k rpm and it went out of site w/ volt meter that diffinatly was bad and you should have showed them that.

But Most stores only ck alternators and they have a internal volt reg on there system it they cant ck your volt reg on your car unless they come out and ut soem sort of tester on there. and then load test it by putting the heater and lights on.. But most cases when you load test its the (alternator)

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