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jeffball610

4G63 510

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I like the 720 pickup front lip best.

 

See 510keepers fauxbird build. He even shows how he did it about halfway down the page i linked to above.

 

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Stitch welding the rest of the body can increase stiffness substantially. Fender gussets like that would likely be helpful. If you really push hard, a tower bar up front could help, and even better might be a triangle bar linking to the firewall as well.

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The wagons came with the "A" pillar to upper frame rail stock.

That's where the idea came from for others to make an "aftermarket" solution for. But why do some add this while others don't? Is there an actual benefit to it? Are there any other areas that can be strengthened in a similar way?

 

I like the 720 pickup front lip best.

 

See 510keepers fauxbird build. He even shows how he did it about halfway down the page i linked to above.

 

Stitch welding the rest of the body can increase stiffness substantially. Fender gussets like that would likely be helpful. If you really push hard, a tower bar up front could help, and even better might be a triangle bar linking to the firewall as well.

I've seen his build, and I like it. I might try something similar.

 

I know that stitch welding CAN help, but where is it best to do this? Also, can adding "frame rail supports" or the like help as well? I don't want to add a ton of weight, but I also want to avoid a cage as much as possible. I just want this to be as good as it can be without going overboard.

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And what front end is this? BMW?

 

'73 Japanese market grill, aka Supersonic grill or GL grill. They can be obscenely expensive used ($1k+), but there are a few places making aftermarket versions now that are more affordable. 

 

 

My next option is this. Camaro?

I'm not a big fan of the BRE style. It sticks out a bit too much. I'm not opposed to it, I'd just like some other options.

 

That is a MK1 Golf duckbill spoiler. About $60-70 on ebay and not too tough to fit. 

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Or did you mean the air dam below the bumper? If so, old school Dobi/Mitcom air dam, specifically made for the 510. Also usually had a 4" tall rubber "skirt" attached. Futofab made a reproduction for awhile, but seems to have stopped offering it? I have a new one if interested, with rubber skirt (which the Futofab didn't come with). 

 

And what front end is this? BMW?

114a_Datsun510.jpg

 

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A few updates over the past couple of months.

First, I went ahead and got the BRE Spook since their shop is here in town and it seemed like a decent enough option. It also looks better in person than in all of the posts I've seen. My initial reasoning was to get some cool air to an oil cooler, but the holes aren't in the right spot for me.
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That brings me to my oil cooler option. I have a small 10 row mounted under my radiator, and it seems to help some, but I still want to cut my intercooler height down and mount a larger one for track days.
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I'll post install pics when I improve my mounts.

Also, against everyone else's better judgement, I went on an 800 mile trip across the mountains and deserts from Las Vegas to Colorado. The car did great, but I had a control arm adjuster come loose which caused a lot of toe in. I scrubbed the front tires pretty bad, but they're salvageable. After an alignment, the car did great. The plan was also to drive to Canby, but the additional days of driving after this small mishap seemed too much for me. Next year. The drive back to Las Vegas was uneventful other than the heat and my Taiwan "Datsun 521" mirror that flew off at 75mph 100 miles from home.
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Current alignment. It can still be better, but that's as good as it gets for now.

Now for some issues I need to solve. First, what methods are people using to seal the gas tank? I have a leak where I installed my Z31 fuel pump assembly, and it leaks when full or when fuel sloshes too high. I'd like to get rid of the stock feed lines and some vent lines as well, but I fear that will cause more leaks. Is this something a competent fuel tank/radiator shop can do?
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I've also got a small coolant leak from a the patch I did on my metal coolant pipe. Trying to make things simple, I reused a stock part, and the patch that seals a stock hole seems impossible to close. I'm thinking of just making a whole new pipe that requires fewer hose elbows and using only straight couplers. Should I go with aluminum or stainless for this?
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I don't have a clean pic of this, but it's the darker grey pipe with the rubber couplers that then has a straight pipe that goes in front of the timing belt to the upper radiator inlet.

There are some other small things I'm working out like the tune and some cosmetic things. I'll get them sorted and I'm more motivated now that this is my daily driver icon_eek.gif

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Either a nice sized rubber band or o ring for the gas leak at the fuel sending unit. Looks like there's a lip where one is supposed to go inside the mount holes just at the perimeter of the opening.

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Either a nice sized rubber band or o ring for the gas leak at the fuel sending unit. Looks like there's a lip where one is supposed to go inside the mount holes just at the perimeter of the opening.

I've already got that piece in place. It still leaks from somewhere around the top.

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I would chop out that lower steel hose and do all rubber.  The engine flexes a lot.  I would worry about busting the rad.  

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I would chop out that lower steel hose and do all rubber.  The engine flexes a lot.  I would worry about busting the rad.  

That's a great point. I've been looking to redo those lines, and this is something I wasn't thinking about.

 

Coincidentally, the stock 4G63 motor comes with a coolant to oil cooler that sandwiches on the oil filter housing. It's not terribly effective at higher temps, but it works. Sadly, I don't have space between the oil filter and the engine crossmember to use it. I'm using a unit from an EVO3 that has a stock air cooled oil cooler. The stock units are pretty big, and I still feel mine is undersized. That being said, my solution seems to be working so far. Street driving isn't much of an indicator, but it's definitely taxing the coolant system less and I've got a bit higher oil presser due to cooler oil.

 

Here are a few poor pictures of how I got this to work.

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You can see about 5-6 rows peaking through at the bottom of the radiator.

 

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The AN lines don't hang as low as this makes it seem, but it saves room at the top for airflow.

 

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Lines coming from the oil filter housing. There is plenty of clearance as to not rub anything.

 

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(looking up from the ground)

This one is a bit close to the pulley, but it doesn't flex into it at all. I'd still like to get this further away. I did mount my brackets to the under side of the core support to existing bolt holes using rubber isolators to allow some flex as to not fatigue the cooler or the mounts.

 

Ultimately, I will likely cut my intercooler to make room for something more substantial if needed. I'd also like to find a thinner intercooler so that one day I might even have air conditioning. After the hot drive across the desert, I'm feeling old. I need some air conditioning and cruise control.

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I made a little video of the install of my T3 coilovers and camber plates. I have an issue preventing me from running the camber plates that hopefully T3 can help me resolve.

 

 

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Better try that again

 

...and waht's that orange filter?  After all the post about them? Datsun owners don't let friends drive with frams.

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3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Better try that again

 

...and waht's that orange filter?  After all the post about them? Datsun owners don't let friends drive with frams.

Thanks for the thought. Fram is pretty standard on 4G63 cars. I change the oil often enough that anything more expensive or "better" isn't all that necessary. That being said, I'll look into other options.

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I used to do the same with another cheap brand.... till they started making them in China.

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46 minutes ago, jeffball610 said:

Thanks for the thought. Fram is pretty standard on 4G63 cars. I change the oil often enough that anything more expensive or "better" isn't all that necessary. That being said, I'll look into other options.

 

Just get a Wix filter, or even a Supertech filter from Walmart is better. Not even more expensive...

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I wouldn't go WallMart if it was the end of the world and they were selling passes to the afterlife. 

 

Standard on 4G63? No way Mitsubishi would run them. Ever! They are made as cheaply as possible with crap materials and labor.   

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On 1/14/2019 at 7:30 AM, datzenmike said:

Standard on 4G63? No way Mitsubishi would run them. Ever! They are made as cheaply as possible with crap materials and labor.   

I meant in the 4G63 community. I'll put something else on for my next oil change, but most filters are made by the same company in the same facility. Most alcohol is made the same way. Kirkland vodka is made in the same distillery as Grey Goose.

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So, #4G63510 made it to its first road course event.

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I was very worried about the brakes after my B210 booster install. They're still not great, but I felt safe enough to be on course.

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My Tomei R200 1.5 way LSD worked great. I could definitely feel that the car was putting power down to both rear tires. No drama or lag from spinning one tire.

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The car ran great and I was easily keeping up with Miatas in the turns and staying with higher horsepower cars on the straights. I have a lot to learn about driving, but the car did well. That is until the last session. I was not feeling the power that I had all day and took a peak at my boost gauge on the straight. I was only making 5psi at 5k RPM instead of 10+psi. After I pulled into the pit area I took a peak at all of my vacuum lines and such in case there was a leak, and then I noticed this:

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I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to do that. It's disappointing that a part that is considered high quality would do that. It also seems like an odd failure in general. Thankfully it was the last session, and I was able to drive home. Overall it was a success and I can't wait for the next event.

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So I am doing a 5 lug swap on my 72 that is the same color. What was your final "recipe" for the rear brake setup and what year 200sx rear hub did you use?

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On 2/15/2019 at 12:56 PM, ReconMedic said:

So I am doing a 5 lug swap on my 72 that is the same color. What was your final "recipe" for the rear brake setup and what year 200sx rear hub did you use?

I'm sorry, I didn't see this. My recipe is posted throughout this build. The basic breakdown:

Stock 510 trailing arms with the hubs cut out

Weld in Z31 hubs with brake bracket (mine are 87+ units)

While you're at it, might as well use the same brakes that came from that Z31

Z31 R200 (I swapped in a Tomei CLSD)

Rear axles are Z31 CV joints on both ends with WD21 Pathfinder front axle shafts (1986-1995 Pathfinder 4WD)

 

My best advice is to make sure you weld the hubs in either straight or with whatever toe and camber changes you might want. I would not put the brake bracket at 12 'o clock like I did. Depending on how your hubs get situated, you may need to clearance the control arm a bit. Mine was very minor. Lastly, unless you REALLY want 5-lug hubs, stick with 4-lug. You can still get Z31 4-lug hubs and matching CV axles. I thought 5-lug would offer me more wheel options, but most of the "classic" style wheels are only 4-lug. I hope that helps.

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