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4G63 510

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Holy crap! I did some work on the car this weekend!


Not a whole lot to get excited about. It was mostly finding out what combination of parts I need to have to make this all work. I also cleaned up the rear control arms and sprayed a nice coat of Rustoleum for good measure.




I resembled the whole thing and slid it under the car and didn't take pic. I'll get one when I drag it out next weekend when my new rear disks come in. Why did I order new disks? Great question. So glad you asked. Apparently the 5 lug swap I did on the back is specific to the 84-86 variety and the 87-89 is slightly different. The 87-89 parts have vented rear disks and are set outboard about 10mm further. I also had to order the proper outer wheel bearings as those are different too.


I'm also finding that the brake line fittings are not optimal. I'm looking at mixing and matching parts or making some odd brake line routings. The e-brake cables will need a little tab at the end of the shock mount so they can run under the control arm. The brake lines will likely need banjo lines so I can route them properly. The straight fitting in the SS line kit I got isn't optimal. I'll take some pics of the mess when I sort it out in my head.

I went about getting some initial measurements for the CV axles. I'll likely have to get custom pieces cut since the outer sections are larger than the inner section. I'm going to see if I can cheat and find a vehicle with a solid rear axle of the same or similar diameter and steal that for raw material. If not, then custom it is. The driver's side axle is only 14.75" from wheel hub to diff and the passenger side is 15.5". The CV areas with the boot take up about 10" total, so these will be some short axles.


I'm still sorting the wiring. I just need to sit down and do it. Next up will be to assemble the rear suspension so I can sort out the driveshaft and exhaust. I'm thinking of switching up the turbo setup to a simple EVO8 16G. I might have one I can get cheap, but that will have to wait.

This thing will run and drive by 5/10. I am determined.

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Finally posting the progress I made. Still have to put the new rear disks on, but I got this out of the way.

Outer spacer ring


Outer bearing pressed on. Turns out you're not supposed to do this. It all gets pressed together when you install them. :/


Bother bearings and the spacer installed. Had to all come back apart to install them.


Properly installed.





I am going to order new lock nuts for these. The driver's side doesn't want to work for me and you should probably replace them any way. At least they have all new bearings and getting set up properly for the thinner 84-86 rear disks. I still have to get some rear brake lines, but things are moving along.


Sadly, I'm going to have to take a break for a bit. I'm in the process of buying a new house, so things will get packed up in preparation for that. Hopefully I'll still get some things done on the car before the move and while the weather is fantastic here in Vegas.

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I'm not dead and neither is the car  :thumbup:


I just bought a new house and have some time and money to burn. I just bought some more tools and ordered wiring supplies. I'm giving up on using another car's fuse/relay panel and going with a Bussman unit and a Deutsch connector to pass through the firewall. I pulled the motor and trans again to I could take care of a few things. Here's one small thing I did.


I removed the "drain" from the firewall. Previously I beat it in a bit for clearance on my thermostat housing, but I simply removed it for maximum clearance and don't see much of a point in having it anyway.




Of course I cleaned up the seam and prepped the metal. I'm bad at taking oics while working. Lots more work coming as soon as I get organized in my new garage.

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More progress! It's been slow due to other projects, but it's getting there.


First up is the Bussmann fuse/relay panel I've installed. I still need to put in my mounting bracket I made and put it in its final place, but it's almost done.


Super easy to wire up using all weatherpak connections and seals.


I took the opportunity to wash all of my light lenses while I was replacing all of the bulbs. I also painted the interior of the rears with some shiny paint to clean them up and hopefully send a little more light out.


I finally got around to ordering the rear axle nuts from Nissan. torqued them to 150ft/lbs and about another quarter turn since that's the highest my torque wrench would go.


After reinstalling the motor and trans, I mocked up the clutch slave cylinder and noticed my steering linkage was in a worse position than I thought. It will require some persuasion as to not interfere with the bellhousing and other other components.


A closer look at the interference.


Rear CV axles are finally finished. I got some Pathfinder axles on the cheap at Rockauto for $35 a piece. They might even be a tiny bit short, but they will work and likely never break.


My poor 205 width tires next to my 350Z 275 width rears. I can spin the Z's tires with no effort. I'm a bit scared of how the 510 will handle with more horsepower, less weight, and less tire.


I do have an issue with the CV boot. I'm mocking up a mustache bar (it will be thicker than this) for the R200 and the bushing hits the boot. These are the boots from the Pathfinder axles and are too big for the Z31 CV joint any way. The bad news is that I will have to remove the outer CV joint and both boots to replace this one boot. Even with all that trouble, it's way easier than trying to pull and replace the inner CV. That job took waaaaaaaay too long the first time. Never doing that again if I can help it.


Ignore the mess of wires. They work. At least all of the lights and the starting circuit works. The red top is trunk mounted with some 4 gauge wire. I'll take some more pics of my power circuit when I mount everything permanently.


Other than that, I removed the sound deadening and cleaned the floors so I could weld in some seat mounts and check things out. I do have some rust on the passenger side where it meets the firewall and a small piece under the passenger seat. Otherwise, not only it is rust free, it's clean enough to eat off of. More to come soon. I promise.

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Way to go buddy! Congrats on the progress. Getting the CVs close to being done is a huge hurdle. 

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More updates. I spent some time cleaning things up and finishing small projects.


I reinstalled the dash so that I could finish up the wiring mess that I made. I still have more work to do here, but the largest part is done.


I finished the wiring on the battery and it's ready to go.


Here is a terrible pic of the last of the brake lines. It's tough to get a picture laying on the floor.


My amazingly complex intercooler pipes. Still need to weld in a flange for my Synapse DV, but it's basically done. One piece about 14" long and one 90 degree elbow.



I also took care of some rust. Mostly I just wire brushed some surface rust and sprayed some rust converter. The first couple of pics are of a "patch" that was done at some point. It doesn't appear to have effected the car beyond the patches and the floor is still straight. I'll do some welding on the B pillar to reinforce it a bit and patch in the two rust spots on the passenger floor pan.







Other than that, I've just been organizing my garage and prepping for more intense work. I'm making plans to have my driveshaft made followed by the exhaust. Other than that, I will be double checking my work and having a couple of other people check my work. There are still plenty of small items to take care of, but the bulk of the work seems to be in order. I'm not sure if it will be running by 5/10 day, but as always, that's the goal. (and the dream)


Until next time.

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Small update and small step backward.


I needed to install my alternator on the intake side due to some clearance issues with my intercooler charge pipe/intake and the coolant pipes that I still need to build. The best solution is this piece from Jay Racing.


However, space is very tight due to my unique intake manifold setup. With the bracket set up the way it's designed, the adjustment rod touches the throttle body and cannot be used. There is a second threaded hole lower down that I used instead and I managed to get enough clearance to mount it into position.


As you might be able to see, it's not quite straight with the other pulleys. I used a longer bolt in the top position due to the second hole I used. This puts the tension rod further from the alternator's mounting hole. I need to get a slightly longer bolt to get it to align correctly. I also need to find my stock bolt for the lower mount, but that can wait. I needed to see if this would even work first. The Jay Racing piece is far to beautiful not to use. I will make it work, but it will require a bit more finesse. I'll also need a longer belt than they supply, but what do you expect for a unique swap :/

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More progress! I've been doing small items here and there and ordering a ton of parts. I've almost got my coolant lines done, just waiting on one more piece (I hope). The rear end is back in after redoing the brake lines and swapping the pinion flange for the round R200 unit. I also installed an orange front sway bar. I say orange because I'm not using name brands on this build unless someone wants to toss me some parts at a discount for free advertising. I wrapped up a few other loose ends and pulled the car out to wash the floor in preparation for the exhaust build that should be happening next weekend.








To steal a line from Doug Bernards on YouTube, "It's not perfect, but I did it myself."

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The parts keep rolling in. Started mocking up the rear part of the exhaust. 3" stainless with a 3" straight through, offset inlet/outlet muffler. I'll be running a small resonator up front when I get to that part. Just waiting on my O2 housing so I can start the real work.


Also started on a fan shroud. I wanted to use aluminum, but I thought I should weld some studs on to mount the fans. They're just 10" eBay fans.



I hope to keep the progress coming. School is out in 2 weeks, so I'll have plenty of time to work after that.

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I'm nearly complete with the cooling setup. Just need to finish mounting the radiator, get one last coolant coupler, and hook up the fans to my wiring.


Here's my first attempt at a fan shroud. It's just 22 gauge steel with welded studs for fan mounts. I'm sure I'll need to create more flow for when the fans aren't running, but this should work for now.


Here's my simple upper coolant hose. It runs very similar to factory cars the like MK IV Supra. I shouldn't have any issues with it. The stock outlet comes from the "rear" of the motor at the thermostat housing.


This is my lower hose. It's basically a 180 degree bend with a straight section. I welded the bend to the factory water pump outlet flange that mounts using an o-ring. I might need a support so coolant pressure doesn't blow it out, but this is a simple solution and shouldn't interfere with anything despite my pic with the turbo turned.


I'm on a roll and barring any major issues, I hope to have it on the road by the end of June. Testing in the dead heat of Vegas in July should help me locate any issues I might have.

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Is that basically flat against the fins?  Seems like, if so, it's more detrimental than helpful.

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Is that basically flat against the fins?  Seems like, if so, it's more detrimental than helpful.


No. There's about a 1/4" gap between the fins and the shroud. Not sure if that's enough space, but I don't have much to work with. As it is, the passenger side fan nearly touches the water pump pulley. When I was mocking it up, I used the bolt heads to check clearance. With my "studs" in place to hold the fans, the bolt heads didn't touch the fins. I assume that means I have at least some clearance.


I really have no idea what I'm doing, but it seems to make sense to me and I'll see if it works soon enough. I'm open to suggestions on any part of my build.

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I think you'd get quite a bit more cooling by just attaching the fans directly to the radiator and doing away with that "shroud". That really looks like it would do way more harm than good...

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I think you'd get quite a bit more cooling by just attaching the fans directly to the radiator and doing away with that "shroud". That really looks like it would do way more harm than good...

The idea is to get the air to move through the entire radiator core rather than just through the fan area. There is a lot of wasted space in this 2 fan design. I can only fit 2 10" fans on this core. I'd like to do a single fan, but I don't have a lot of space before I run into the engine. This wasn't a very involved project, and if it doesn't do the job, I still have the "zip ties" that came with the fans and can mount them directly to the core.


I'm still not convinced that my design is all that good, and I will likely remove it, but it is what it is right now.

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I hot wired the fans today to check some things. They seem to work just fine. I can feel air being pulled through the 3" intercooler as well as from the top at the core support between the intercooler and radiator. I'm sure it will need work, but seems okay for now.


I finished up some mounts for the coolant lines. They needed a hard mount to the block to keep from moving and interfering with other things. It's far from perfect, but should work. Next on the list is to weld in some smaller coolant lines for the turbo and to finish mount all the turbo stuff. Once that's done, I'll start on the exhaust. So close I can taste it :-)

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I guess I should follow up with the statement that they towed it to my school so I could do the exhaust  :thumbup:



"We don't need to put it on a flat bed." Thanks for scratching my oil pan tow guys >I


I still haven't finished my diff mount, but I'll get to that soon.


Here's the full shot for reference. It still needs finish welding, but it's all tacked together. I won't win any design contests for this, but I managed to fit a full 3" exhaust under there with the turbo outlet on the passenger side. I used the transmission output area to house the flex joint and cross over. I wanted to put a resonator in there too, but there's just no space.


The system is in 4 pieces. The downpipe and midpipe here are connected with v-band clamps.


Here's the crossover to the 3rd section. I tucked it up a bit into the driveshaft tunnel. This is also connected with a v-band.


And lastly is the rear section and muffler. I connected this with a "butt clamp". There's no room to pass a v-band through the crossmember, so I thought this would be the best option. The pieces butt up against each other squarely and are sealed by the clamp. The section that passes under the axles was tough to get right. There's plenty of clearance around the cv joints, but it's kind of tight around the diff area. The muffler is a straight through unit with offset inlet/outlet. I hope the turbo keeps it quiet.


It still needs some adjustment, but you can see it doesn't hang too low in this area.


From here, you can only see the section that goes under the axle, but I think the flex joint area is the lowest.


The jacks are in place so I can figure out the hanger situation. I haven't finish welded too many sections yet. I'm learning to TIG weld on this thing. I won't win any welding contests, but I think I'm doing alright for my first time.


Still lots to do. I'll get back at it Monday. I'm open to comments and suggestions. I'm doing this all myself with a little guidance from friends. It's not perfect, but I did it myself  :thumbup:

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I'm open to comments and suggestions. I'm doing this all myself with a little guidance from friends. It's not perfect, but I did it myself  :thumbup:


I think it looks good!  :thumbup:


Just finished my first ever exhaust also. And while it's not perfect, there is a lot of pride in doing it yourself. 


Although after looking at yours, I need to redo some sections...   :rofl:

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That butt clamp is going to leak a little bit, so make sure you point the seam away from anything important.

That clamp is right as it passes through the crossmember. I was going to put some "exhaust paste" or whatever they call it in there to help seal it more. It's not ideal, but I can't think of another solution. I'm open to suggestions though.

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