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jeffball610

4G63 510

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looking forward to seeing this one come together. nice work

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No pics or real updates, but wanted to let everyone know I'm into full gear now. I'm sitting down with a friend who owns a shop tomorrow to help plan out the last few stages.

I've also been hunting online for tires. Anyone have suggestions? I have 16x7 rims and was thinking maybe a 205/50/16. There's plenty of tires in that range for a decent price. I'm also staring to look at camber plates, but I'll need to price the machine work for custom bump steer spacers. I also have to factor in light machine work on a flywheel, head resurface, wheel spacers and a custom drive shaft. I'll try to map out an estimate of what else needs to be done to get it road worthy. It's a long way off, but with Spring Break in a week and some positive cash flow, I don't see a reason why I can't try to get it on the road by summer. It's been a long 5 years of just sitting, it's time to get it back on the road.

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Things are starting to come together. I just got some more parts ordered including a crank, so now I can assemble the motor. But most importantly (for now) I got me some tires! Finally got to mount the TSW Kyalami wheels that I've been lusting over since before I even had this car. I found a set about 8 months ago and now I have tires. These are 16x7 +38 (I think) wheels with 205/50/16 tires. I also have 10mm spacers on all four corners right now. The rear spacers are actually behind the rotors to space the rotor out for the calipers. I think I need the proper turbo calipers on the rear. But as it is, I think there is going to be room for some 225 width tires in the future. I'll need to do some more work on the front before I can decide if there is room for more tire. Enough talk. Here's some pics:

 

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You can see the positive camber here from the S12 V6 struts.

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Front is way too high, but I will wait until I get my camber plates to make adjustments to the spring perch. I have a set of springs from Specialty Engineering mounted on 510 perches to the stock location on the S12 V6 struts. They're just tack welded for now.

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The rear looks much better.

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I cut just a little out of the lip and folded it in. I will make it look much neater when things get closer to the body work stage. And fix that spot full of bondo that cracked :( For now, they are clear of the tires.

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Will you be able to tuck up front with that much +offset? I font have camber plates yet but I'm not sure on my car with zx struts. And I have 205/40.

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I've got some camber plates on order from Top End Performance, so I can try to get this car down a little in front. With the 10mm spacers up front, it looks like it sticks out a little. I think I can get away with a smaller spacer, but not much. With no spacer, the tire does rub the strut. Some negative camber will help to tuck the tire some, but I don't know how much wider I can go with tires up front.

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Got quite a few updates.

 

First I installed the Top End Performance camber plates. Pretty simple device. I can only get it to move about a half inch in for negative camber from stock. I don't know if that will be enough with the positive camber the S12 struts provide. I think I can modify them to get another quarter to half inch more movement, but I will wait and see. I'll take some pics of the camber when I install the motor again so the weight will be about where it needs to be. For now, here you go.

Here's the kit laid out.

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Stock strut top.

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TEP strut top. I have already cut the strut tower a little more for getter clearance on the other side. I will take care of this side when I start to disassemble the car again.

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And now the exciting stuff. (for me at least)

Freshly machined head.

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Dirty block ready for parts.

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Parts to be assembled.

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Assembled bottom end. I guess I didn't get a picture of the EVO 8 pistons from the top.

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ARP head studs.

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Engine assembled.

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White valve cover. I will likely paint some type of design on here for fun.

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That's if for now. I'm still sorting out the custom clutch assembly parts and finishing sealing up the motor with small stuff like valve cover and oil pan. Then it's back in the car to hopefully get it running. I still need to sort out some wiring for the initial startup, but the parts are all there.

 

PS my $37 10 megapixle camera sucks!

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PS my $37 10 megapixle camera sucks!

 

just a friendly tip: try and have the camera real still when taking pictures in the dark, long shutter speed and movement translates into blurry pics. but then again you're using flash O.o lol BTW thats a beautiful 510 so far can't wait to see it when its finished!

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The sad thing is that I know how to take a picture. I understand shutter speed, aperture, ISO etc. But this thing sucks. I blame the world for being dumb and creating technology that does everything for you. If I had the option to choose my camera settings, I could take a decent picture. But for $37, what do you expect. You get what you pay for. I bought the camera so I wouldn't have to clean my hands to hold my Sony Alpha and all the expensive telephoto lenses just to take a picture of a half assembled engine. I'll play with the camera more so I can take decent pics for you guys and for documentation of the build.

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The sad thing is that I know how to take a picture. I understand shutter speed, aperture, ISO etc. But this thing sucks. I blame the world for being dumb and creating technology that does everything for you. If I had the option to choose my camera settings, I could take a decent picture. But for $37, what do you expect. You get what you pay for. I bought the camera so I wouldn't have to clean my hands to hold my Sony Alpha and all the expensive telephoto lenses just to take a picture of a half assembled engine. I'll play with the camera more so I can take decent pics for you guys and for documentation of the build.

 

ohp you (sometimes) get what you pay for lol, and i know how it feels to try not to get the tinyest bit of dirt on a really good camera but i got over that a after i got my first scratch :lol:

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I put the motor back in temporarily. I still need to sort out the clutch and some other small items, but I couldn't resist putting it back in the car and getting it off the engine stand. It will also give me a chance to finish up some engine bay items and see how the car sits with the new wheels and camber plates.

 

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MAn is that oil pan low....

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The subject of the oil pan has come up several times. It currently sits 4" off the ground. The front crossmember is just under 6" off the ground. Stage two of this build will include a custom oil pan/sump setup. The stock Mitsu unit is prone to oil starvation when oil moves to the flywheel side of the pan. In RWD setup, this would happen under acceleration, so I'm definitely going to do something about this.

However, for stage one of this build, I just want to get the car mobile.

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Any more updates? Looking forward to seeing this come together

 

 

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Any more updates? Looking forward to seeing this come together

Yeah...x2. This is pretty slick.

 

Oh, WTF is a baller? You state several times "I'm a baller."

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The subject of the oil pan has come up several times. It currently sits 4" off the ground. The front crossmember is just under 6" off the ground. Stage two of this build will include a custom oil pan/sump setup. The stock Mitsu unit is prone to oil starvation when oil moves to the flywheel side of the pan. In RWD setup, this would happen under acceleration, so I'm definitely going to do something about this.

However, for stage one of this build, I just want to get the car mobile.

 

Why not make a dry sump oil system? You'd increase the oil capacity increase ground clearance, and Have a better oiling system then the factory setup.

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That's the most blasphemious thing I've ever seen. Like showing up at the airshow with a Mitsu.

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How do I become a baller? Is it someone who plays basketball?

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This car is ballin!!! Sr Goes out the window. Dreaming of all the rolling starts on the highway.... Keep at it man. If you do decide to not finish. Scrap it. Not a single part to anyone

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I've been making very slow progress. Some of the hang-ups are simply cash related, but mostly, I'm just oversimplifying things. I'm trying to keep this as simple and clean as I can.

 

For instance, I'm trying to use as many stock and junkyard parts as possible both for cost and so others can replicate a similar swap in whatever chassis they choose. Right now I'm trying to route the water lines without being overly complex.

 

The motor is 99% complete. I just need to install the timing belt and hook up all the wiring to it and see if it starts. I would like to go with a dry sump at some point, but again, I'm trying to keep it simple. I have had visions of running a dry sump using the stock oil pump gears and pickup tube. I just don't think I understand it enough to make an effort right now.

 

For now, I will keep working on wiring and getting all the little things done like brake lines etc. The only major parts I still need to purchase are a driveshaft and get my ECU socketed for tuning. I need custom bumpsteer spacers made for the S12 V6 struts and some Z31 turbo rear calipers. Other than that, I think I have all of the parts to get it on the road. We'll see.

 

I'll try to post a couple pics of the small things I'm doing now to appease the crowd.

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like. plz complete :cool:

 

How do I become a baller? Is it someone who plays basketball?

I KNOW THI SIS IS THE REAL SKAKIRA~~~

sounds just like her :huh:

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Holy shit! Has it been that long since I updated this build? Guess I've been posting progress of individual project areas and not on the build as a whole. Well, here's the fuel lines I've been working on:

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Specs: 3/8" steel line with -6 AN fittings. Fuel pump is a Z31 unit with -6 AN adaptors on the 8mm stock lines. I have an inline fuel filter you might be able to make out in the last image. Next to it is the unconnected return line. I have an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator that I'm trying to decide how I want to hook it up. The stock 1G fuel rail has bolt on AN fittings. The return side is on the "front" of the engine and I used hard line to loop into the intake manifold area. I have SS flex lines at each junction.

 

My advice for anyone doing this, skip the hard lines unless you have the space and patience for bending line. Also, skip the female hard line connectors that are standard and go with Earl's (or similar) hard line adapters. They have the proper male fittings and you don't need to flare the ends of the hard line. Wish I knew this before I started.

 

Next up is running power to the fuel pump and putting some oil in the motor. If all goes well (as it rarely does) I hope to have it running by 5/10.

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