Head light problems

[boxboy]

I bought another relay today. Wow! I am never going to NAPA for regulators again. I got one at Coastal Farm of all places today for half the price of the NAPA one. Anyway I got the one I am supposed to have, and went back to the original diagram and it all works now. So thank you Mike. I would still like to know why the way I had it rigged would melt fuses, just to increase my understanding. But, don't type it all out on your cell phone!

 

I just have to get them all taped up and mounted to the fender wall now and I will be good to go. Thank you for all your help.

 

I do have a rather new looking alternator. I don't know if it is an upgrade or not. It's a Mitsubishi if that means anything. What should I be looking for to know?

[mklotz70]

I'm really glad to hear that you got it all working correctly.....in spite of my confusing things :)

 

At on point it sounded like you were pulling the power for pin 30 from the fuse block instead of the battery. If pin 30 is being fed directly from the batt, perfect.

 

The reason for the fuse melting...and I'm not the only one to have the problem...is the the draw was high enough to create the heat, but since it wasn't a surge or spike, it didn't burn out the fuse. The solder in the fuse has more resistance than the buss bar inside the fuse, so on a long steady draw it will be the solder that gets heated up. It took about a week for it to happen, so I'm guessing it got soft and the a bump jarred it enough to ruin the joint.

 

Thanks for your patience. I could have explained all this in about ten min on the phone if you would have called. I've spent many hours working with guys on the forum and then the final fix is about ten min on the phone. The upside to the forum work is that so many more people benefit from it. On a phone call, only one gets help. :)

[mklotz70]

That's a great idea Hainz...I'll pencil that down and see if I can do a conversion thread/vid :)