Head light problems

[boxboy]

Pin 30 on both relays should be fed by a new wire through a 20amp fuse straight from the battery. Pin 86 on both relays is fed by the headlight sw which needs the headlight fuse installed or it won't have any power. The first relay is grounded (pin 85) to the fender. You can check that ground by putting pwr to pin 86 and see if it clicks. Pin85 on the second relay is connected to the wire from the blinker sw which provides a switched ground to change the relay from low to high.

 

I followed you earlier directions to the T and triple checked. But those directions said to feed pin 30 on relay #2 from pin 87 on relay #1. Now you are saying feed both pin 30's from the battery? Where does pin 87 on relay one go then now? As it is I have:

 

Relay #1:

30 fed from fused line from Battery Positive

85 grounded to the fender

86 fed from RY wire from dash switch

87 jumpered to 30 on relay #2

 

Relay #2:

30 fed from 87 on relay #1

85 BR wire from column switch

86 jumpered to 86 on relay #1 RY wire

87 RB to low beams

87 RW to high beams

 

So if I feed both 30's from the fused battery wire, 87 on relay #1 goes nowhere.

[boxboy]

. . . and also I don't have anything coming from the fuse block. I just tried that as a solution. When it didn't work, I put it back per your layout. It is currently as explained above.

[mklotz70]

Sorry for the confusion. Leave it the way you have it.

 

If you are in a position to work on it right now. Pm me a phone number and I can probably call in a couple min.

[mklotz70]

87a on relay one will not be connected. You don't need power out of relay one if the headlight sw is not on.

[boxboy]

87a on relay one will not be connected. You don't need power out of relay one if the headlight sw is not on.

 

I am at work now, so I can't do anything until this afternoon, or if I go home for lunch.

 

Right now 87a is empty, but 87 is going to 30 on relay #2. Doesn't that mean that relay one is just turning on relay 2? I am thinking low beams should be coming out of 87 on #1 so that lows are controlled by #1 and highs controlled by #2

[boxboy]

Another thought . . . could I have bought the wrong type of relay? I just picked up the only 40a relay NAPA had on the rack in the lighting section. The guy said they were what folks use to wire up auxiliary lights.

[banzai510(hainz)]

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/Relays.aspx

 

the are many different variations of this blk light relay but the most common are the 4 pin and 5 pin. The 5 pin will have a 87 and a 87a. 1 is opne and the other is usally closed. But I have seem where both 87/87a can be closed. there is usually a diagram on the relay its self.

 

that relay you have should work fine.

 

 

pin 85/86 is your low current side

pin 87/30 is the HIGH power side to the battery.

 

 

now not to confuse you most datsun lighting is like Toyotas. they switch the ground instead .meaning th positive side is hook up to usually to the fuse box power/battery.

[boxboy]

Mine are the five pin type but I have two 87's instead of one 87 and one 87a.

[banzai510(hainz)]

well what does the diagram on the relay say?

 

maybe the 2 87s means they are shorted together and one 87 goes to the left light/ the other 87 goes to the right light.

 

 

I will assume youll need 2 relays if you want your HIGHs to work.1 for low 1 for HIGH

 

but go with Mklotz says as I might only confuse you and I know he did his truck.

 

only sugeestion is if using the blkbox relays that you are using I would get a new E spec lamp housing and get the H4 55/60wATT BULBS.(NEED TO ADJUST THE LAMP UP HIGHER USUALLY)

[inline4]

I am at work now, so I can't do anything until this afternoon, or if I go home for lunch.

 

Right now 87a is empty, but 87 is going to 30 on relay #2. Doesn't that mean that relay one is just turning on relay 2? I am thinking low beams should be coming out of 87 on #1 so that lows are controlled by #1 and highs controlled by #2

30 usually is constant power and is hooked up to the battery. 87A is the pin right in the middle of the relay that has 5 pins. iirc, those have to do with switching on and off loads.

 

I think, let me reiterate that I think that the reason why 87(load) is going to 30 relay 2 is the fact that both filaments need power when the high beams are on?

 

anyhow which diagram are you going off of again, I know mklotz posted a link to tech references, but I'm not sure which diagram of those you're looking at.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I think, let me reiterate that I think that the reason why 87(load) is going to 30 relay 2 is the fact that both filaments need power when the high beams are on?

 

inline4

thats is not a true statement. at least on a 510 Im not sure if a 520 is one headlamp on each side. But on a 510 only 1 element will be one if Low or HI then the inner lamp will light(50watt) . if you read a stock 510 is 35w/35w. It dont go to both on High.

[inline4]

I think, let me reiterate that I think that the reason why 87(load) is going to 30 relay 2 is the fact that both filaments need power when the high beams are on?

 

inline4

thats is not a true statement. at least on a 510 Im not sure if a 520 is one headlamp on each side. But on a 510 only 1 element will be one if Low or HI then the inner lamp will light(50watt) . if you read a stock 510 is 35w/35w. It dont go to both on High.

really? I thought that the low beams sort of dimmed when you turn on the high beams. on the 5006 bulb, the inner pin is hooked up to the pos side of the high beam. and yeah the 520 only has one headlight on each side.

 

why would 30 be hooked up to 87 then?

 

edit: and by filament I meant both lights the high and low beams :)

[boxboy]

I am following a step-by-step earlier in this thread. No diagram, no link. Just a paragraph explaining the steps.

 

Seems to me if both 30's were fed by a constant power source and the low beams ran off relay #1 and high's off #2 they would both have constant power. #1 when the dash switch was pulled out and #2 when the column lever was in High beam position.

 

But I know very little, and I don't want to melt anything down!

 

This is the post I had originally seen and made sense to me from Beebani:

 

http://community.rat...page__hl__relay

 

My colors are different, but the hook up makes sense. Of course he doesn't say if both HB and LB come off of one relay or one for each.

[boxboy]

well what does the diagram on the relay say?

 

My relay says when circuit is active that both 87's have juice.

[boxboy]

Inline4, 67 and 68 520's have two headlights per side. That's four total.

[inline4]

Inline4, 67 and 68 520's have two headlights per side. That's four total.

 

 

oops, you know what, I would try the 510 3 relay diagram. I'll post what to hook up to what in a little bit, I have to head out.

 

you are using 5006 for lows and 5001 for highs right?

[mklotz70]

Boxboy. Go with the first description I gave you. There's a flaw in what I said this morning. Trying to do this all from my phone is challenging! Anyway. The first relay is to remove the main power from going through the headlight switch, it is not for the low beams. The second relay controls hi or low. If the blinker sw is set for low, the second relay simply passes the juice from the first relay through it's normally closed contacts. When the blinker sw provides a ground to the second relay, the second relay switches and juice is fed to the high beams. The first relay is simply a remote controlled switch.

 

Your problem is that you don't have the right relay. You need the kind with 87 & 87a. You can use the one you have with two 87's for the first relay. It's the second relay you need to change. 87a are the normally closed contacts which would put the juice out to the low beams when the second relay is de-energized. Since you don't have that pin to connect to, you have no low beams. I sent you my number.

[mklotz70]

Damn that's a lot of typing to do from a cell phone!!!

[inline4]

Damn that's a lot of typing to do from a cell phone!!!

hahah, at least it isn't like my phone, you type stuff and it changes the word to something weird.

 

the 3 relay diagram to rewire the 510 headlights should work the same in this case right? (not to confuse the thread starter anymore though :o )

[boxboy]

Ha! What a mess I have started!

 

When I got home this evening I hooked it up like I thought it should be, and it works. I concede that it may not be right, and you all can tell me if I am going to fry something. Here's what I've got:

 

Relay #1:

 

30--Power from an open slot from a 30a fuse "lights" in the fuse box.

85--ground to fender

86--RY wire from the dash switch

87--RB wire to the low beam lights

87-- open

 

Relay #2

 

30--Power from a fused line from the pos. batt. term.

85--BR wire from the column switch

86--RY wire from the dash switch

87--RW wire to the high beams

87--open

 

So, if I am right, pulling on the dash switch will relay one to active and the low beams come on. (They do!) Relay two is asleep until I flip the high beam switch on the column grounding that relay completing the circuit. High beams and low beams come on. (They do!)

 

So am I going to fry something with this set up? It seems to work, but I won't know until morning if something has drained my battery, melted, blown fuses or something else. Since constant power is on both 30 pins, and the 86 pins are both activated by the switch, I think I have accomplished getting the power out of the switch. Let me know if and where I have strayed.

[boxboy]

Mklotz, I hope your typing thumbs recover soon. You may have a texting hangover tomorrow! I understand now why your model didn't work with the relays I bought. I don't know why NAPA only had one type on the shelf. I just took what they had.

 

It appears that I have followed pretty closely the Beebani post that I linked to. Just I have different wire colors. I assume the math is the same.

[mklotz70]

Yes, it will work how you have it, but I'd only run it this way temporarily and carry spare fuses. You are still pulling all of the headlight power through the light switch. The problem is that you are actually feeding 6 filaments at one time when you turn on the high beams. Try to not use your highbeams much until you get the correct relay for the second one. If you are going to run it this way for while, you really should run a new wire directly from the battery through a 30(if that's what the factory fuse size is) amp fuse, to relay 1. You should run the new wire even if you do get the correct relay. The point of the first relay is to get the main power off the light switch and it's factory fuse. I had a lot of problems with the fuse melting and I was only feeding the low beams most of the time. That was the main reason I added the relays.

[mklotz70]

The fuse didn't blow, the solder melted out of he end. It looked fine but would not conduct.

[boxboy]

Okay, so originally I had relay #1 getting power off of the battery. Then I changed it because I thought you said later that #2 should come off the battery. I can switch the 30's power sources, but I thought they were basically doing the same thing?

 

I also don't understand how I am still running power through the switch? Could you explain that to me? I thought the 30 pins were the high current source, and the 86 just the trip. Is it because I am connected through the fuse block?

 

If I knew what to call the relay and where to get it I would do it like you said. Is it SPDT or SPST or what do I ask for at NAPA? It is kind of nice having all the beams on in high though. Why do the fuses melt? Not doubting you, I just want to understand it. This is a learning experience. I've never messed with electricity much.

[banzai510(hainz)]

boxboy wrote

My relay says when circuit is active that both 87's have juice.

 

this relay would still work. It just has 2 out put connections

 

My relay I use for my hella bumpers lights is the standard 4 pin 85/86 trigger 87/30 is the Main power when energized. Just that the wire harness had 2 big 12/14wire gauge comming out of them routing to the left and right side.

 

The one you have you just route 1 wire out from each side.

 

But dont let me confuse you

 

Mike has got you worked out. .

I dont know 520s but I assume you should get a BIGGER ALERNATOR ALSO. BEST TO RUN A VOLT METER to monitor ther drain while you drive.

On my 510 w/35 amp at idle I was really draining the battery. But highs are not used all that often anyways

 

find or get a spare volt reg also.

 

Maybe Mike can do a IR conversion for use and not use that old stuff.