Anabolic620 Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 any thoughts yet on what radiator setup ou want to go with next? great thread by the way. when i swapped my ka24 into my 620 i had to have the oil pan slightly cut and welded back up to allow my centerlink more oil pan clearance. maybe my engine mounts were allowed the engine to sit too far back, thus causing the centerlink to have clearance issues? hmm... i wonder. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 If I do anything with the radiator it will be moving the upper fitting over on the current radiator. I have 0 cooling issues though so not sure if I will do that. I had to clearance the pan a little bit with a hammer. 1 Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Just read the whole thread tons of info and very nice work! I'm leaning towards swapping a KA into my newly acquired 620 so I'll probably be hitting you up in the future for some of your brackets. One question I do have that hasn't been answered in the threads I've read so far, why the swap to the 720 trans? They look to be very similar to the KA trans, I'm assuming something is in the way on the KA's but just want to be sure since a 720 trans is going to be awfully hard to find here on the east coast. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Thanks, it's a great little truck. The KA makes it a ripper. The KA transmission is longer than the stock 5-speed transmission. The 720 transmission is the same length as the stock 5-speed. This allows you to retain the stock crossmember location, effectively making it a bolt in swap, with no driveline modifications required. 2 Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Thanks, it's a great little truck. The KA makes it a ripper. The KA transmission is longer than the stock 5-speed transmission. The 720 transmission is the same length as the stock 5-speed. This allows you to retain the stock crossmember location, effectively making it a bolt in swap, with no driveline modifications required. Cool thanks for the clarification! Guess I'll keep my eyes out for a z motor 720 trans. The shipping on that won't be pretty lol 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 You can make the KA trans work, there is some slotting of the mounting holes required. Just be aware of that and you'll be ok 1 Quote Link to comment
edutechnic Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 What parts are these, specifically? Trying to get everything for my KA24E swap (Sourced from a '90 240SX) in hand to do it in a weekend. There is a 1995 Hardbody, 2wd, 4 cyl, in a local yard I'd love to rape and pillage if this stuff comes off of it. Picked up the stuff to delete the power steering. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 You just need the upper and lower alternator mounts and the water housing shown in that pic. The housing is right by the alternator. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 You can make the KA trans work, there is some slotting of the mounting holes required. Just be aware of that and you'll be ok I am thinking I may design a trans cross member to fit the KA transmission if there is interest. 6 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 I would like to see you design a front X memeber that houses a Rack and Pinion and mounts for a true lower A arm. And if you could come install it that would be great. :thumbup: 4 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 You have a rack in mind? 1 Quote Link to comment
goes2fast Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 You have a rack in mind? Maybe this one? :rofl: 3 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 No, not yet. I guess I should update my "build" thread. Sorry, please continue. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Maybe this one? :rofl: :lol: No, not yet. I guess I should update my "build" thread. Sorry, please continue. Well I have a bare frame I can use for development, I just hadn't thought about it. Could be cool though. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 You Lost Redeye at Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Putting some more time into this one. Cleaning up some stuff and installing some parts I have had for a while. Pulled in the garage. This thing is going away. It's already spoken for.... Never ever using anything but Nissan seals again. No idea WTF. :confused: This is the rear main. I took it upon myself to see if I could swap it without pulling the motor. While I was successful I had to unbolt the motor and lower it to get it back together. :lol: Got the holey tank out and the new one ready to go in. Going to pick up some new line and clamps. Going to fab up a mount plate for the pump and filter while I am under there. Figured I would put this wheel to use and clear up some shelf space. 8 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Saw your interest in possibly making a rack and pinion swap. This is some research I did for Icehouse for 510 swaps. Thought it might be of interest to you. These are copied straight from the pms I sent him, so it's geared at 510s, but the info still might help. think I might have a good option, but that is for you to decide. 1995-1999 hyundai accent. According to specs + math, inner pivots are around 22.25 inches apart. Came in both manual and power. Power is easily available through O'Reilly and AutoZone. Manual is special order, but easily internet available. Im fairly sure there were more of these on the road than MR2s. The steering neck seems pretty far to the side and not very large. I ordered a power rack in to my store so I can take real measurements on it. I will have it tonight to measure it. Let me know if there are any specific measurements that would be helpful to you and i will get them. Oh and its 2.8 rotations lock to lock. Not sure how that compares to MR2. Inner pivot to inner pivot, on centers, measures out at 22.5 inches. Total accent rack width with inner tie rods. 45.25 inches. Those tie rods are m14x1.5 so the 510 outers will fit them, just have to use two of whichever 510 outer is right hand thread. The tie rods that come on the accent rack are about 12.35 inches long end to end. I can get inner rods in a large variety of lengths ranging from just over 6 inches to about 13.5 inches long that will fit the rack and the 510 outer rods. I have a list of part numbers so all I need to know is total rack length, center of outer to center of outer joint, that you want and I can tell you what inner tie rods to use. Also, the steering neck on this power rack is relatively small, even with the fittings and it is very far to the side, so I'm hoping that it will clear the pan, or that with some 90° fittings it will turn and clear the pan. 4 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Lockleaf, What shop do you own? That is some good info. Where do you search rack dimensions? I need to do some studying on this subject as well. I was just planning on finding a rack that had the neck as close to the end as possible and cutting it appart and making it dimensionally what I need. A LOT OF WORK! 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 I am the reluctant employee of oReilly auto parts going on ten years now :). All my research was done using a combination of the companies computerized info, some regular internet, and then ordering R&Ps in to my store and taking physical measurements. I'm happy to help how I can. I currently only work Saturdays as I'm a full time graduate student, but if you get me what specs you want, I will do the research to find stuff as close as possible to what you need. I pretend to own a shop called alchemy motorsports. It's just my garage. And maybe my backyard. And half my driveway (my wife parks on the other half :) ). I just like to think I'm one of the rare counter guys who actually knows a damn thing about cars. Most of my co workers, while good guys, are useless with a wrench. They fit the stereotype pretty accurately. I also excel research in general. I spend a lot of time researching automotive information. 7 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Very cool. Thanks 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Saw your interest in possibly making a rack and pinion swap. This is some research I did for Icehouse for 510 swaps. Thought it might be of interest to you. These are copied straight from the pms I sent him, so it's geared at 510s, but the info still might help. I would love to see some pictures of the Hyundai rack and the MR2 rack. I assume the MR2 is a bit bigger? 1 Quote Link to comment
goes2fast Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 It's about time you got that one finished! When are you planning on starting work on the keeper? 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 After I get this out of the garage the plan is to get my winch installed on the green one. Then back to the keeper. This one will be going to Icehouse for a bit to get the motor rewired properly. It was wired at the last minute to get to Canby after the swap and it was never really gone through thoroughly. Once that is handled I may finally get around to selling it. :lol: 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Mr2 and accent are actually very similar in size. But the mr2 stuff is getting very hard to find, so icehouse was looking for something more easily available that would also work. Today I looked in to a whole new idea that I think might work well. The smart fortwo. They are front steer though, an rhd rack would have be used, flipped over. Luckily that car has been sold for years in Europe, where it is much more popular than it is here. Rhd racks are cheap and plentiful on eBay. They came in manual and electric assist. I think they might actually be too narrow, which is perfect. Spacers can be made to put the inner tie rods in the optimal position. I can't tell if the rack has m12 or m14 threads in it. Regardless, I'm confident I could find an inner tie rod that would make this all function with the factory outer tie rods. This is the rack, without inner tie rods. This thing is compact. Might be perfect. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 But I don't know travel or lock to lock rotations. Those seem important.... 1 Quote Link to comment
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