Tomakze Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 well, I have almost everything i need to do my brake swap. I am using the '82 200sx disc brakes in the back, '90 300zx z32tt brakes for the front, and a 280z brake master cylinder. the only things i still need information about are the brake lines... If someone could post a picture or two of how they routed the lines in a similar setup, i would appreciate that. I also need to know what rubber lines people are using, and how they set them up. I am thinking about replacing all the solid lines it the car, but i have never done this before, so i am worried about doing something wrong and blowing out a line... a co-worker said i need to double flare the brake lines, and it is very difficult to do. any clarification about this would help, and probably lower my stress levels! the other thing i am worried about is the brake bias. do i need an adjustable proportioning valve to make this work properly? also, will the stock distribution block work, or should i get another? I have never done anything like this before, so i am using this as a learning experience. thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 I am thinking about replacing all the solid lines it the car, but i have never done this before, so i am worried about doing something wrong and blowing out a line... a co-worker said i need to double flare the brake lines, and it is very difficult to do. I have never done anything like this before search on the realm under 'the bronze'. Byron redid all his lines (a 510) but should provide sufficient information for your task. IIRC double flaring was not necessary, but a quality flare tool IS! Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 look on 311s.org, theres a few pictures on how spriso does their brake lines. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 You will have to double flare or you will have slow leaks. Double flaring is pretty easy, just make sure you don't over flare it so the ends don't split. Also use some lubricant between the tool and the brake line. Quote Link to comment
raceneely Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 Tomakze use a wilwood prop valve to reduce flow to rear. wilwood part number 260-8419 To build your own hoses use these Earls part numbers from www.ANplumbing.com 592032 your male adapter for caliper 609203 your 90 degree hose end 600103 your straight hose end 6000031 your hose 640603 mates to nissan line if it is metric 640503 mates to nissan line if it is s.a.e Neely Quote Link to comment
compression Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 well, I have almost everything i need to do my brake swap. I am using the '82 200sx disc brakes in the back, '90 300zx z32tt brakes for the front, and a 280z brake master cylinder. the only things i still need information about are the brake lines... If someone could post a picture or two of how they routed the lines in a similar setup, i would appreciate that. I also need to know what rubber lines people are using, and how they set them up. I am thinking about replacing all the solid lines it the car, but i have never done this before, so i am worried about doing something wrong and blowing out a line... a co-worker said i need to double flare the brake lines, and it is very difficult to do. any clarification about this would help, and probably lower my stress levels! the other thing i am worried about is the brake bias. do i need an adjustable proportioning valve to make this work properly? also, will the stock distribution block work, or should i get another? I have never done anything like this before, so i am using this as a learning experience. thanks in advance! You can buy pre-assembled lengths of hard tubing from NAPA or other autoparts stores. Make sure you get the tubing with metric nuts on it M10x1.0 inverted flare. That way you dont have to flare anything yourself. I did my whole car with this stuff and it works great. They sell couplers if you have to attach one hard tube to another. Flaring your own tubing 80% of the time results in leaks. Also, dont run rubber brake lines. Use teflon stainless braided line. Give the kind people at Techna-fit a call for the proper fittings at a good price. I would argue that you dont necessarily need a proportioning valve on the rears, but that is up to you. It is only useful if you are getting too much rear braking. Quote Link to comment
Tomakze Posted July 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 thanks guys! I have stainless steel braided brake lines now for the front, and now i just need to figure out the rear line. That is no big deal, once i have everything together i will just do a measurement. as for the hard lines, i was waiting for Spriso to post some pictures of how they route their lines on their cars, as they simplify it quite a lot. Spriso brake setups are super clean, and i want to duplicate their layout. I dont think i have the correct tools to double flare the lines though... ive never done that, so i dont even know what is involved. the premade lines from napa may not be a bad idea... that is if i can get the lengths correct. as for the proportioning valve, I am hoping because i am using such small calipers in the rear i might be ok without one, but i dont really know... i suppose when it is finished, i will just have to slam on the brakes and find out! and Neeley, thank you so much, i know that will be very helpful!!! I am still very curious if anyone has any pictures of how the routed their brake lines... that would be very helpful to me!!! Quote Link to comment
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