2dr. 510 rear Stub axle

[Docsis510]

I was doing a rear disc brake conversion on my 510 and my dumb ass jacked up the threads on the driver side stub axle. let me know if you guys have one thanksss.

[Chris#51EPGraham]

I was doing a rear disc brake conversion on my 510 and my dumb ass jacked up the threads on the driver side stub axle. let me know if you guys have one thanksss.

 

I've got one. Have never pulled a stub axle before...can you advise as to how hard they are to

slide hammer out and any other problems/mistakes to avoid?

[thisismatt]

I've got one. Have never pulled a stub axle before...can you advise as to how hard they are to

slide hammer out and any other problems/mistakes to avoid?

The stub axle nut has a thin lip/ridge that is peened over onto flats on the stub axle to lock it in place. You have to cut away these peened over spots in order to get the nut off.

 

Docsis510 - if you only damaged the thread at/above the peened over nut section it's probably still fine to use.

[Docsis510]

yeah that nut is what did it. i used the air gun on it without knowing that i had to cut those bent pieces out.

 

[Chris#51EPGraham]

I knew about the peened nut flange. I now have a left axle out and cleaned up if

you decide you need it. The big nut threading looks to be M20 x 1.25. Not sure

how easy it is to find that size, but a machine shop can easily modify a standard

nut to create the peening flange like that. I don't know of anywhere to get new or

NOS nuts.

[thisismatt]

I knew about the peened nut flange. I now have a left axle out and cleaned up if

you decide you need it. The big nut threading looks to be M20 x 1.25. Not sure

how easy it is to find that size, but a machine shop can easily modify a standard

nut to create the peening flange like that. I don't know of anywhere to get new or

NOS nuts.

Nissan, 43262-21000 (or 43262-21050).

[Chris#51EPGraham]

Nissan, 43262-21000 (or 43262-21050).

 

Nissan dealers still have them, d'you think? (probably lots of them because everyone

assumes they're NLA like I do :lol: )

 

That bearing number you posted in the steering box thread - that was a Nissan part #,

not a generic bearing number?

 

Speaking of which, the 510 sedan rear wheel bearings are generic bearing # 6206 with

the suffix OA or DA, 30mm x 62mm x 16mm. Do you know if Nissan sells or sold 510

sedan rear wheel bearings strictly in matched (duplex toleranced) pairs? Duplexes are

for shafting designs where inner and outer races must both be mounted rigidly within

ten thousands of the same length.

[hang_510]

Nissan dealers still have them,

 

Do you know if Nissan sells or sold 510

sedan rear wheel bearings strictly in matched (duplex toleranced) pairs?

yes they do! :)

got mine last year and were avail at the local dealer (for more $$ of course <_< )

 

 

IIRC they do not.

i had a Q about matching and never got an affirmitave yes from anyone.

 

just used what i received.

[Chris#51EPGraham]

yes they do! :)

got mine last year and were avail at the local dealer (for more $$ of course <_< )

 

How much $?

 

 

IIRC they do not.

i had a Q about matching and never got an affirmitave yes from anyone.

 

just used what i received.

 

At a dealer, right? That leads me to believe the assembly is not designed around duplex

pairs. They'd be worried about liability otherwise.

 

I can attest that those humble 6206 bearings will last at least 300k miles based on the '69

510 I owned. I bought that car thrashed with a chrome re-ringed engine that was nearly

worn out, then wore out another low mileage engine/trans in it over another 100k miles.

I'm figuring 200k on engine #1 + 100k (in that car) on engine #2. Same rear wheel bearings

all along.

[hang_510]

I can attest that those humble 6206 bearings will last...

ive not heard any REAR wheel bearing failures.

 

the set i replaced were heavily abused, & if it wasnt for all the effort pulling apart and never wanting to do it again, i would have put em back in.

[thisismatt]

Nissan dealers still have them, d'you think? (probably lots of them because everyone

assumes they're NLA like I do :lol: )

 

That bearing number you posted in the steering box thread - that was a Nissan part #,

not a generic bearing number?

 

Speaking of which, the 510 sedan rear wheel bearings are generic bearing # 6206 with

the suffix OA or DA, 30mm x 62mm x 16mm. Do you know if Nissan sells or sold 510

sedan rear wheel bearings strictly in matched (duplex toleranced) pairs? Duplexes are

for shafting designs where inner and outer races must both be mounted rigidly within

ten thousands of the same length.

I didn't post anything in the steering box thread, so I don't know. I don't think Nissan ever sold the bearings in a set, and I don't think the tolerances really need to be that precise for wheel bearings (I mean if you consider how front wheel bearings are setup on all these style nissan struts there's actually a fair amount of play). Yes, 6206 is the generic number and I don't know of anyone who buys them from nissan when you can get them a lot cheaper elsewhere. I think 6206-2RS is the style I have, which are double sealed unlike the stock ones.

[Chris#51EPGraham]

I didn't post anything in the steering box thread, so I don't know. I don't think Nissan ever sold the bearings in a set, and I don't think the tolerances really need to be that precise for wheel bearings (I mean if you consider how front wheel bearings are setup on all these style nissan struts there's actually a fair amount of play). Yes, 6206 is the generic number and I don't know of anyone who buys them from nissan when you can get them a lot cheaper elsewhere. I think 6206-2RS is the style I have, which are double sealed unlike the stock ones.

 

Sorry, you're among the part number experts here and I think I got you confused with hang_510 (?).

Yeah, duplexes are normally used in pairs stacked against each other without any spacers, hence the

need for ten or hundred thousandths in lengthwise dimensions. Apparently that's not an issue with the

stub axle if everything's driven home correctly. I didn't really have a clear picture of it before this

discussion and taking one apart just now.

 

I copied this list of P/N's from the datsuns.com article on rear disc brake conversions. It seems to

confirm that the bearings are plain old 6206-2RS, not duplex versions thereof:

 

-82-83 200sx Brake Rotor: Raybestos p/n 9809, 10.125" OD

 

-85 300zx (non turbo) rear brake rotor: Brembo p/n 3256

 

-Caliper Rebuild Kit: Brakeware 66427 for 200sx or Maxima Calipers, Available from Autozone

 

-Rear stub axle lock nut (sedan only): Nissan p/n: 43262-21000, available special order from

your local dealer (as of 3-05)

 

-Rear wheel bearings (sedan only): 6206-2RS Available from any bearing supplier

 

-Rear Stub shaft seal: Timken 224045, Available from Autozone

 

-Porterfield R4-S Brake pads for 200sx/maxima rear calipers: AP230

 

-Wilwood Dynalite Single caliper: 120-4060

 

Edited to add...anyone know for sure that OEM peenable axle nuts are still available,

like who bought them this year? I could be mis-measuring with digital calipers (don't

have pitch guage) but if the pitch is really 1.25 then Datsun used a nonstandard thread.

Standard pitches for M20 seem to be 2.50 (coarse) and 1.50 (fine).

[Chris#51EPGraham]

ive not heard any REAR wheel bearing failures.

 

the set i replaced were heavily abused, & if it wasnt for all the effort pulling apart and never wanting to do it again, i would have put em back in.

 

I've never heard of any rear WB failures either. None, ever, in the history of the world.

 

The one very good reason for always replacing bearings in this type of assembly is that the

races are likely to be damaged (brinnelled) in the process of removing them, or driving/slide

hammering the stub axle out. Why tempt fate to save a few bucks when Datsun PL510 rear

WB's are one of those few things we can have utter and absolute faith in?

 

The 510 front bearings are tiny compared to 610/710 and Z cars and pretty inadequate.

I autocrossed on stock 510 struts and had to readjust the bearings for every event. I also

had to adjust them pretty often before that just driving a lot of street miles.

[Creepy Cruiser]

 

Edited to add...anyone know for sure that OEM peenable axle nuts are still available,

like who bought them this year? I could be mis-measuring with digital calipers (don't

have pitch guage) but if the pitch is really 1.25 then Datsun used a nonstandard thread.

Standard pitches for M20 seem to be 2.50 (coarse) and 1.50 (fine).

 

I got some last fall from the dealer, and they were still available no problem.

[Chris#51EPGraham]

I got some last fall from the dealer, and they were still available no problem.

 

Thanks, Creepy Cruiser!

 

That's reassuring to know since they turn out to be maybe nonstandard threading.

That comes up a lot on lathe manufactured parts because lathes can cut all kinds of

nonstandard threads and engineers often use them for whatever reason.

[Topher88]

I hate to bring this back from the dead but when I talked to Nissan it said that there are an inner and outer barring and they were both different prices and all I'm seeing in this thread is one barring 6206. I havent taken apart my hubs yet so this might be a very dumb question but are there two barring in each side or just the one?

[thisismatt]

I hate to bring this back from the dead but when I talked to Nissan it said that there are an inner and outer barring and they were both different prices and all I'm seeing in this thread is one barring 6206. I havent taken apart my hubs yet so this might be a very dumb question but are there two barring in each side or just the one?

No, the bearings are both the same, two per side. The 6206-2RS bearing is a double sealed bearing, whereas the originals were not sealed on the inside and thus the hub was packed with grease inbetween the two bearings. You get the 6206-2RS so you don't have to deal with grease, although it might still be advised to put some in anyways.

[Topher88]

No, the bearings are both the same, two per side. The 6206-2RS bearing is a double sealed bearing, whereas the originals were not sealed on the inside and thus the hub was packed with grease inbetween the two bearings. You get the 6206-2RS so you don't have to deal with grease, although it might still be advised to put some in anyways.

 

Ok cool thanks

[Topher88]

Ok any other tips on removing the 27mm nut on the hubs?? I cut off the pinged edges but even with a 4 foot cheater bar still can't seem to budge the nut..... And they are not reversed thread right?

[thisismatt]

Correct, neither are reverse thread. Make absolutely sure you've cut away enough of the peened edges, then a quality impact wrench is your friend.

[Topher88]

Ughh ok

[Topher88]

When installing a new nut just crank iit down to next week or is there a tq I should set it 2? Don't have a manual with me at this time

[thisismatt]

When installing a new nut just crank iit down to next week or is there a tq I should set it 2? Don't have a manual with me at this time

From 1972 Factory Manual:

 

Assembly and Installation:

 

Install in the reverse order of removal, noting the following points.

 

1. Clean the wheel bearings, oil seal and the inside of the axle shaft housing.

2. Be sure to install single sided seal bearings correctly, seals facing outward... (Paraphrased)

3. When refitting the wheel bearing the pressure should be applied to the inner race.

4. When replacing the suspension arm, measure the dimension L1 & L2 (see fig. RA-19).

The length of the distance piece [spacer found between bearings-rn] is 0.05mm (.0020 in.) shorter than the length of the housing. Example: When an axle housing is coded "B", select "B" coded distance piece.

 

[Diagram shows a mark is located on the trailing arm and the spacer. Doesn't specify top or bottom. L1 is indicated to be the dimension from bearing shoulder to bearing shoulder, L2 is the length of the spacer.-rn]

 

Specifications:

Mark A, L1 length: 59.05-59.15mm, L2 length: 59.02-59.08mm

Mark B, L1 length: 58.95-59.05mm, L2 length: 58.72-58.98mm

Mark C, L1 length: 58.85-58.95mm, L2 length: 58.82-58.88mm

 

5. Replace wheel bearing grease every 50,000km (30,000miles).

Pack wheel bearings with MP@ or MP3 grease as shown in Figure RA-18. Apply grease to the lip seal and wheel bearing.

6. Replace the wheel bearing nut after it has been used twice.

 

Wheel Bearing Adjustment

1. After tightening the nut to a torque of 25-33 kg-m (181-239 ft-lb) check the rear axle shaft end play. It should be 0.15mm (0.006 in.) and should have a turning torque less than 7 kg-cm (6.1 in-lb).

If the correct end play or turning torque cannot be obtained, disassemble and replace the distance piece.

[thisismatt]

Yeah....239ft-lb! :D

[Topher88]

Yeah....239ft-lb! :D

 

geezzzzzzz thats a shit load. thanks man ill be getting on that this week :-)