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elmerfudpucker

After market power locks.

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Ok, here it goes... First you need to get your hardware;

2 power door lock actuators

2 relays

wire

a 10amp fuse

and a 2 way MOMENTARY toggle switch

A momentary switch is the kind that you can flick one way or the other and it only works for as long as you hold it, or you can use a couple push button valet switches. If you got a friend in car audio or Best Buy, the hardware would be cheaper and Best Buy alarm techs have prefabed relay packs that work great!

 

Tools;

Drill with a Uni-bit (recommended, easier to control one bit can drill multiple sizes)

Wire cutter/stripper

2 pairs of pliers

Electric tape

Door panel tool (if needed)

Phillips screwdriver (or gun if ya lazy like me)

 

We start with the relays, place them side by side and tape them together around the bodies of the relays, (#87a's are grounds and the #87's go to 12 volt all the time) then follow the diagram and USE THE 10 AMP FUSE!!,(yes I am a member of 12volt.com too, same handle :D )

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Now we attack the door

 

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Remove the window crank, door latch trim, and armrest. Using the panel tool, pop the door clips loose and remove the panel. The black patches you see is vibration dampener don’t sweat that.

 

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THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! ROLL THE WINDOW DOWN!! This takes care of actuator clearance issues. Put your actuator hardware together however you see fit to get it in there without it hitting or messing up your door panel or anything inside like the window.

 

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Next find your door lock bar and put it in the unlocked position and stretch the actuator out for unlock. Then try and locate a good spot that the actuator can get a clear shot at the lock bar.

 

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Using TWO pliers, make whatever bends you need to get the bar to work in the same directions to the lock bar then tighten everything down. then roll the window up and down to make sure it clears the actuator. Then grab your battery out of your drill, look for the positive (+) and the negative (-) tabs and touch one wire to each for just a half sec both ways to make sure it works. You can PM me with a picture and questions if needed.

 

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Next find a clear path for your wire and drill your holes inside the door hinge area. the door hole should be above or below the cab hole, this prevents the wire from binding and shorting out.

 

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I use a uni-bit because it can drill any size hole and it goes one step at a time for better control. In this install my cab hole is lower than the door hole.

 

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Now in the Pics, I am using what is called 9 conductor (9 wires in one cover) also known simply as 9 wire. You DO NOT have to use that, I have a bit more stuff to go into the door so I only want to do this once. The actuator comes with a boot and two wires to run between the door and the cab, so drill your holes a tad smaller than the boot so it locks in better.

 

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Now link the wires up to the actuator, use crimp connectors or solder and tape.

 

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Now the other end, my switch has three posts, the center #2 links to either #1 or #3 for only as long as I hold the button in either direction. #2 gets screwed to metal as a ground, #1 and #3 are wired to the unlock (#85) and lock (#86) tabs on the relays. Now pay attention, #30 on the relays is the output to the actuators, if your switch doesn’t unlock/lock in the direction you want, switch the #30 wires from the relay around, it is a faster fix.

If you have any questions, PM me, any relevant info will be edited/added into my first post.

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As a side note, the relay system shown can also control a power window, but you will need one set for each window and one auto reseting breaker as the fuse, whereas the locks only require one

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im missing a rod from one of my power door lock kits. I need to find somthing that will work in its place.

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im missing a rod from one of my power door lock kits. I need to find somthing that will work in its place.

 

heavy duty wire coat hanger

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Are the actuators a universal type or are they from a Nissan? I was told by a friend a long time ago that the 610 window glass "splits the lock" leaving no room for this setup, but the doors shown on your 720 appear to be the same style as mine. :confused:

 

Lots more questions to come. Big time plans for something like this before I close up my doors, so be prepared... ;)

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yes they are universal, I have done locks on more cars than I want to admit. and yes they will work on yours, the actuator just does what your fingers normally do, just inside the door. If you can get a clear spot for the actuator to the lock bar, you are good.

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yes they are universal, I have done locks on more cars than I want to admit. and yes they will work on yours, the actuator just does what your fingers normally do, just inside the door. If you can get a clear spot for the actuator to the lock bar, you are good.

It sounds like direct attachment to the bar that pulls the lock at the top of the door instead of at the closing mechanism (inside of the door, what hits the closing plate) is good, right?

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It sounds like direct attachment to the bar that pulls the lock at the top of the door instead of at the closing mechanism (inside of the door, what hits the closing plate) is good, right?

 

You have done well grasshopper!

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NICE! :thumbup:

 

 

I have done locks on more cars than I want to admit.

can you admit to have done this to a wagon hatch? :mellow:

 

im still loooking for the best mechanism for mine.

the push/pull doesnt seem like it would work with the hatch mechanism

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NICE! :thumbup:

 

 

 

can you admit to have done this to a wagon hatch? :mellow:

 

im still loooking for the best mechanism for mine.

the push/pull doesnt seem like it would work with the hatch mechanism

 

PM me a pic of the inside of the mech, there is a couple different ways to get it done, but I dont want to tell you the wrong one. But I am thinking you may need a trunk popper rather than an actuator if there isnt enough to grab.

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But I am thinking you may need a trunk popper rather than an actuator if there isnt enough to grab.

couldnt get a good shot...

 

its needs a push (from behind) style (pull intereferes with the panel)

 

has about 1" clearance and actuation requires another 1" or so.

fair amout of room to weld in a bracket in place of the stock button/lock.

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couldnt get a good shot...

 

its needs a push (from behind) style (pull intereferes with the panel)

 

has about 1" clearance and actuation requires another 1" or so.

fair amout of room to weld in a bracket in place of the stock button/lock.

you just gotta align it properly (I need to redo mine)

 

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couldnt get a good shot...

 

its needs a push (from behind) style (pull intereferes with the panel)

 

has about 1" clearance and actuation requires another 1" or so.

fair amout of room to weld in a bracket in place of the stock button/lock.

 

Take video and explain, toss it in bucket and post it here, or just bring it to Canby and I will fix it there! ;)

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you just gotta align it properly (I need to redo mine)

that one will not line up in the g00n hatch!

 

the bucket is blocked :angry: flikr (when i have the good camera avail)

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that one will not line up in the g00n hatch!

 

the bucket is blocked :angry: flikr (when i have the good camera avail)

my bad, its for my sedan.

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If it is a regular trunk, then you need a trunk popper and to adjust your trunk springs to open it enough to release and clear the lock. Most poppers have a bike cable type link so you can work it into odd spots.

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Don't see why not. :)

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Hey Elmer, can you please post up a diagram on how you would connect the power windows along with the door locks? I have 85 720 king cab and i picked up a couple of doors that have power locks and windows and i was wondering how to hook them up to my truck. Thanks for your help!!

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Hey Elmer, can you please post up a diagram on how you would connect the power windows along with the door locks? I have 85 720 king cab and i picked up a couple of doors that have power locks and windows and i was wondering how to hook them up to my truck. Thanks for your help!!

 

As a side note, the relay system shown can also control a power window, but you will need one set for each window and one auto reseting breaker as the fuse, whereas the locks only require one.

 

 

Already done my good man, and pay attention to wire size, DON'T SKIMP! :geek: saving a buck or two on wire isn't worth the car fire. :crying:  Match the wire in your door or better/heavier gauge wire, and fuse or breaker everything! :ninja: SOLDER AND HEAT SHRINK IS YOUR FRIEND!  :thumbup:

take your time and I will try to check back, or PM your question directly. 

 

 

Now...BACK TO WORK YOU!  :devil:

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