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turbo z24?!


tomcat

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Just a thought.. anyone ever turbo a z24? i love turbos, and i was thinking a draw through setup would be pretty cool on my truck. but im doubting the engine can handle it without some serious modificatation, but then again.. i may be wrong. Has it been done?

 

i was thinking L20b head swap, try to drop the compression somehow (thicker head gasket?), and a sidedraft carb with a draw through turbo, i might be able to run 6 psi or so, not sure how much power it would make, but it should be decent, and definately different.

 

any thoughts?

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A Z24 block with a U67 head and 1mm head gasket should give you a 9.6CR, 8.8CR with a 2mm gasket.

 

you could lower it more with some more dish in the pistons

 

I dont see why it shouldnt be able to handle 6 psi, its not much boost

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Well a turbo is nice as long as you dont plan on hauling stuff, If you work your truck like I do I would say a supercharger would be a better idea. But if you plan on that route, wouldnt a full turbo motor swap be better and cheaper? It is an 83, so I am guessing you got EFI, so most of the wires are there already, right?

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Well a turbo is nice as long as you dont plan on hauling stuff, If you work your truck like I do I would say a supercharger would be a better idea. But if you plan on that route, wouldnt a full turbo motor swap be better and cheaper? It is an 83, so I am guessing you got EFI, so most of the wires are there already, right?

 

 

wrong, 83 is carb my friend. late 720s in 85, some of those got the throttle body that the early hardbody did.

 

Here's my 85 4x4, i dont remember the mfg date.

IMG_0341.jpg

 

Heres a super late 720

07-22-09_1701.jpg

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Well a turbo is nice as long as you dont plan on hauling stuff, If you work your truck like I do I would say a supercharger would be a better idea. But if you plan on that route, wouldnt a full turbo motor swap be better and cheaper? It is an 83, so I am guessing you got EFI, so most of the wires are there already, right?

 

I dont usually haul heavy stuff, aside from a stand up jet ski, or my dirt bike, neither weigh more than 300lbs. Its mostly a street truck, and my daily driver for now. Supercharger would be cool too, but im kind of a turbo guy, also i love the echaust sound, you dont get that with a supercharger, lol. Plus i can get an old turbo almost anywhere for dirt cheap, superchargers are harder to come by, and more expensive. I have been thinking on doing a ka24e swap, i hear those are nice with a turbo, but i dont feel like messing with injectors and the ECU. I have a honda with about 600hp, if i want to go crazy, i can just hop in that. I mainly just want to be able to put on a good smokeshow, or show up some of the local ricers that think their fart cans make their cars fast, theyll never expect an old nissan covered in primer blasting reaggae. lol. Im really old school, and carbs are pretty easy to tune. The reason im leaning towards turboing my motor is because i already have it, i know it was babied for the first 90k of its life, so its good to go, plus i should be able to do all the work to it without pulling it from the truck.

 

 

What does a u67 come in? ( im new to nissans / datsuns, so im not really sure on anything with these motors quite yet).

What does it take to swap it on?

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The Z24 has a tendency to blow head gaskets unless you re-torque the bolts at every tune up. A turbo is going to put a strain on this. You might want to consider ARP studs if using a turbo. Cheaper in the long run than replacing gaskets.

 

An L head will have to high a compression and more will need to be spent to prevent pre ignition than just running the stock Z head. The problem with the Z head is that it breathes poorly normally aspirated but this won't be normal. A turbo makes all motors more equal. It is already 8.4 compression and is the ideal HEMI shape, cross flow for good swirl, and dual plug so that less advance is needed. This is a cooler running and more detonation reasistant head. All these things make it a perfect candidate for a turbo. The Z18ET would be a good turbo manifold for the Z24 if you can find one. The Z18ET makes about 130 hp on minimal boost.

 

Yes an L head will make more power it revved but will be way more bother than if you just run 7lb on a stock Z24. The U-67 head came on most L20Bs from '75 through '77 when the W-58 was introduced. Yo will also need the two manifolds and the carb. The timing chain will need to be lengthened about 4cm and the top of the L20B timing chain cover modified (welded to make 2cm taller) to fit up under the L head. The Z24 block is 2cm taller. The L20B oil pump and distributor will be used. The motor will need L20B motor mounts to tilt the motor to keep the intake/carb level and this will mean the Z transmission will need to be changed as well. The L intake will be much closer to the master cylinder/booster but should clear without the stock air filter.

 

Just some stuff to think about.

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The Z24 has a tendency to blow head gaskets unless you re-torque the bolts at every tune up. A turbo is going to put a strain on this. You might want to consider ARP studs if using a turbo. Cheaper in the long run than replacing gaskets.

 

An L head will have to high a compression and more will need to be spent to prevent pre ignition than just running the stock Z head. The problem with the Z head is that it breathes poorly normally aspirated but this won't be normal. A turbo makes all motors more equal. It is already 8.4 compression and is the ideal HEMI shape, cross flow for good swirl, and dual plug so that less advance is needed. This is a cooler running and more detonation reasistant head. All these things make it a perfect candidate for a turbo. The Z18ET would be a good turbo manifold for the Z24 if you can find one. The Z18ET makes about 130 hp on minimal boost.

 

Yes an L head will make more power it revved but will be way more bother than if you just run 7lb on a stock Z24. The U-67 head came on most L20Bs from '75 through '77 when the W-58 was introduced. Yo will also need the two manifolds and the carb. The timing chain will need to be lengthened about 4cm and the top of the L20B timing chain cover modified (welded to make 2cm taller) to fit up under the L head. The Z24 block is 2cm taller. The L20B oil pump and distributor will be used. The motor will need L20B motor mounts to tilt the motor to keep the intake/carb level and this will mean the Z transmission will need to be changed as well. The L intake will be much closer to the master cylinder/booster but should clear without the stock air filter.

 

Just some stuff to think about.

 

 

 

wow, that is EXACTLY the info i was looking for! THANKS!!! I didnt know i already had low compression, ive been deciding weather to swap in a ka24, or turbo my z24, i think i just decided on turboing my stock z24! arp studs... expensive ( got em in my turbo honda ), but if thats what will make it work, done!

 

Does anyone know what trannies and rear ends will swap directly in? with more power, the ratios will be pretty useless, unless i want to do little more than bake tires.

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Does anyone know what trannies and rear ends will swap directly in? with more power, the ratios will be pretty useless, unless i want to do little more than bake tires.

 

The stock 2wd tranny is fine. Similar to the 620 and 280z 5spd. ratios. You could maybe lower the rear ratio to get it revving faster. Check the engine tag under the passenger side hood hinge on the inner fender. The rear axle ratio is on the tag.

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Its not like the factory turbo L-series is a great head design anyway. They don't work too well with even 8.8:1 compression and low boost. There is a good reason the L28et has 7.4:1 static compression.

 

If you run even moderately high boost (7-9) then you don't want to have over 8.5:1 or so. You'll be running less ignition advance and high octaine fuel to avoid detonation. It really don't make any sense.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Z22 turbo fab.....by Patrick...................not me

 

04232010.jpg

 

...."i am looking to do a z24 turbo build and am looking for any help because it is a difficult thing to find info on. who is this Patrick? is he on this site?

 

 

Sorry....I should of 'splained' a little better..... :blink:

He's a member in another (720) site....

http://720world.ning.com/forum/topics/how-to-build-a-z22et?page=6&commentId=2016119%3AComment%3A29792&x=1#2016119Comment29792

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  • 2 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Some info here but done with an S110 200sx intake with KA24E electronics and sensors....

 

http://720world.com/...o-build-a-z22et

I'm glad I read this thread and this link!! I have 2 cast iron turbo manifolds for the Naps-z engine I purchased years ago from Australia...Time to try and do this conversion!

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The Z24 has a tendency to blow head gaskets unless you re-torque the bolts at every tune up. A turbo is going to put a strain on this. You might want to consider ARP studs if using a turbo. Cheaper in the long run than replacing gaskets.

 

An L head will have to high a compression and more will need to be spent to prevent pre ignition than just running the stock Z head. The problem with the Z head is that it breathes poorly normally aspirated but this won't be normal. A turbo makes all motors more equal. It is already 8.4 compression and is the ideal HEMI shape, cross flow for good swirl, and dual plug so that less advance is needed. This is a cooler running and more detonation reasistant head. All these things make it a perfect candidate for a turbo. The Z18ET would be a good turbo manifold for the Z24 if you can find one. The Z18ET makes about 130 hp on minimal boost.

 

Yes an L head will make more power it revved but will be way more bother than if you just run 7lb on a stock Z24. The U-67 head came on most L20Bs from '75 through '77 when the W-58 was introduced. Yo will also need the two manifolds and the carb. The timing chain will need to be lengthened about 4cm and the top of the L20B timing chain cover modified (welded to make 2cm taller) to fit up under the L head. The Z24 block is 2cm taller. The L20B oil pump and distributor will be used. The motor will need L20B motor mounts to tilt the motor to keep the intake/carb level and this will mean the Z transmission will need to be changed as well. The L intake will be much closer to the master cylinder/booster but should clear without the stock air filter.

 

Just some stuff to think about.

 

 

 

So what your saying datzenmike is that the z18et intake manifold will fit perfectly with the z24 head? If I could find a complete z18et with the wiring harness, I can turn my z24 into a fuel injected supercharged or turbocharged engine without any modifications?

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So what your saying datzenmike is that the z18et intake manifold will fit perfectly with the z24 head?

 

No. What I said was...

 

All Z18/20/22/24 series have the same exhaust port shape and location.

 

What I will say about the intake manifolds is.....

 

The Z20 and Z22 intake ports are round (presumably the Z18 head is too) but the Z24 ports are square with rounded corners. A Z20 or Z22 intake will bolt up to a Z24 head, the bolt patterns are identical, but there is a small difference in the gasket shape. Here is a Z24 head and a Z20 below it. Note the Z24 has square-ish intake ports.

 

00770026.jpg

 

 

On a N/A engine this wouldn't be a huge problem. Boosting with a poor gasket match might be interesting. I certainly would recommend a gasket sealer used on this application.

 

 

I like this idea a lot. The Z series would seen to be quite detonation resistant, by design or luck I don't know. Dual plugs allow much less static ignition advance. L series are 12 degrees, Z24 is 3. Cross flow head means the intake ports do not have a hot exhaust port beside them and run cooler. (they are also easier to plumb for an inter cooler) The combustion chamber is as close to an efficient HEMI as you can get. Larger displacement. Why have a Z18ET or a CA18ET?????? Why didn't Nissan try a Z24(E)T?? 30% larger motor means 30% more power from turbo. (about 170hp on low boost)

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Just saw this felt i'll reply..I have done exactly this! with very good results..No ARP anything..stock head bolts ..stock OEM headgasket..and it is doing well.

This past weekend has seen 18 psi boost and no probs. went low 12's at 115 mph in the quarter!!

only thing to make sure is air fuel is right(wideband needed) and conservative timing is the most important thing! running this with about 18 degrees total timing with centrif advance OEM stock distributor..this set up is a blowthru using a 390cfm holley carb..A1000 pump and reg..offy intake manifold..homebuilt steam pipe exhaust..44mm gate..garrett gt35 turbo t4..3inch exhaust pipe and a cam that shouldnt even work with this combo..rough ass idle..not even a turbo grind! and stock OEM valve springs too! pistons are .040 over shelf Wiseco KA24de with valve releifs cut in them..

 

Note though i have used this same exact combo with a completely stock Z22 engine and have seen 20+psi with it...lived too! i honestly think you will not have a problem with stock Z24 pistons too..just take it slow and watch the airfuel and timing..dont get greedy early on! it is addicting.

Guams favorite engine is the z24!! we have sprayed the shit out of these engines stock! probably 200 shot of NOS and they live with stock pistons..

now they will come on here and slam me for saying this but it is the truth! Z24's RULE!!

the George Fury turbo Z engine ruled for a looong time too!

 

L20b's suck!!!!!!

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I totally agree with that. A z24(e)t would be fricking awesome. I guess they didn't think of that 'till the ka motor came out. lol

 

So can the swap be done from z18et to a z22et? Since the intake ports are the same.

 

I think it would be a good idea on either motor. I was just pointing out that there was a difference in port shape not that it wouldn't work.

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