Master Cylinder Upgrade Options?

[Dyl510]

I've installed 280ZX front and rear disc brakes on my 1972 510, and so I'm looking to upgrade from the stock 510 master cylinder to something that flows enough fluid to accomdate the 4 wheel discs. However, I'd like to keep it as simple as possible and avoid any modifications to the stock 510 pedal/rod assembly. In other words, what are some direct, no-mod, master cylinder upgrades that would flow enough fluid (my guess something like a 7/8 or larger?).

 

Otherwise, I know a lot of guys go with the 280ZX master cylinder. The thought of modifying any factory brake related parts kind of scares me, but what exactly needs to be changed in order to get the 280ZX master to work in a 510?

 

Cheers in advance!

 

 

[MicroMachinery]

I've installed 280ZX front and rear disc brakes on my 1972 510, and so I'm looking to upgrade from the stock 510 master cylinder to something that flows enough fluid to accomdate the 4 wheel discs.

 

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The thought of modifying any factory brake related parts kind of scares me, but what exactly needs to be changed in order to get the 280ZX master to work in a 510?

 

 

I'm not sure if you realized this, but replacing the stock discs and drums on a 510 with 280zx discs is still considered "modifying any factory brake related parts", whether you decide to keep the stock 510 master cylinder or not. :rolleyes:

 

The best thing you can do is match the master cylinder with the brake calipers that you're using. The wisest thing for this upgrade is to take everything off of the 280zx brake system, and transfer it as a complete system to the 510. The brake lines don't have to be transferred, but the calipers, discs, valves, and M/C should be used to avoid complications.

 

As far as the master cylinder goes, the stock 510 master cylinder mounts to the firewall using 2 bolts; one above and one below. There are 2 different master cylinders that the 280zx used. The earlier version mounts in the same way, while the later version mounts with 2 bolts on the left and right side(horizontally rather than vertically).

I don't remember the exact years(I'm not much help when it comes to Z/ZX cars), but I think it was up through 81' that the earlier version was used.

[Dyl510]

I realize the concept that my brakes have been modified. Perhaps I should rephrase.... the fact of filing down or tampering with small pedal rod connections scares me a little, and I would rather avoid it if at all possible.

 

I agree with your logic and would gladly install a 280ZX master cylinder and will probably end up going that route, however I'm just looking for a bit of insight into how well the master cylinder bolts up. Thanks for the tip on the firewall mounts. Any tips on how well it connects to the 510 pedal rod? Or is there modification needed? Having to adjust the pedal rod in order to get the right amount of travel I don't mind doing, I'm more concerned that the taper between the rod and the master will be different.

 

cheers.

[datzenmike]

Having to adjust the pedal rod in order to get the right amount of travel

 

The adjustment on the push rod is for setting pedal free play.

[RoadRace]

when i did that (put the 280ZX MC on the 510) i found that a slight mod was required to make it work. the 510 pushrod, from the pedal to the MC was attached to the MC. this was not the case with the 280ZX MC. so i adapted the 510 pushrod to work in the 280 MC - basically, i took the 510 pushrod out of the MC and used it for the 280MC, but it was not attached anymore, it was held in place by the mounted MC - like millions of other mc installations. it took a bit of 'manouvering' to get it in, but it worked great in the end. You will also have to trim the welded lip above the MC to fit the 280 unit in there, the reservoir hits it.

[sssr20det510]

I used the resivor off the 510 mc and took the rod to the grinder and made a point so it fit in the zx mc and just make sure its adjusted so it cant fall out but not pushing in on the mc. the lines are a bolt up thing