97 KA wiring into 510

[Creepy Cruiser]

I I still think you should make some of those, and drill out a spot for a temp sensor and one for a water line for a turbo.

 

I agree, think it's a great idea. I've been trying to get some time to get up to my buddies shop and cut out a few more, but I've been working like 20 hour days, every day for the last 3 months, lol.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Jeff Update that drawing.

 

also what you mean by ZX ignition?? You mean Matchbox right?

510s wire is the blk/wht 12volt ON, blk/blu is the START 12volt.

[XeroX]

Sounds like you hooked the black with blue stripe from the factory 510 harness to trigger the ECU relay instead of the black with white. Just hook your test light to pin 86 on you ECU relay and see if it gets power in cranking and in the on position. If not you know one of the trigger wires is missing. Really the black with white and the black with blue should be hooked together I just never put it in the drawing because most 510's I've worked on have the ZX ignition switch. Try that.

 

Also the ground near the ECU isn't needed. The 2 behind the valve cover or near the water neck on some are very very important.

 

Yes on the later KA harnesses the ECCS relay is built in, of coarse on some ECU harnesses it's in a shitty spot and needs to be moved haha :) I want to see pics of the install!!! :)

 

Yea I have the grounds on the engine pretty legit, and on mine the one behind the valve cover has like 5 or 6 grounds going to one eyelet thingy…hella more than what I have seen on any other KA ona 510 lol

 

Ok, well I think I am getting this but kinda confused. “510s wire is the blk/wht 12volt ON, blk/blu is the START 12volt.”

 

What do you mean the blk/wht & blk/blu have to be hooked up together?? Wouldn’t that just try to crank the car over in the acc on position like I mentioned it did before? (God I feel like sucha newb right now!! Lol)

 

Blk/Yellow is starter trigger right?? I have that hooked up to 12v out on the relay for my ignition stuff and IACV, 02 and Main ignition (bundled up).

 

I have yet to hear anything about thie blk/blu tho…Since I don’t even have that hooked up, how am I starting the car?

 

Even though the harness has a plug and play relay that is for the ECU, am I still supposed to splice into it for power? (ie . blk/wht spliced to trigger on ECCS plug and play relay on harness)

[banzai510(hainz)]

the blk/ yel is the acutual starter wire that goes to the starter. Or used to on stock 510s

 

the blk /blu is the 12volt start wire that was used to bypass the ballast resisitor in stock 510s. When installing a Matchbox dizzy on a L motor most people just short the blk/wht with the black/ blu wire.

 

I guess the blk yel can subsitute the blk blu since the ORANGE wire from the ECU will go to the starter selinoid

 

as for the ACC why would you need that ???? thats to power when car is OFF and turn key the other way.

[inline4]

the blk/ yel is the acutual starter wire that goes to the starter. Or used to on stock 510s

 

the blk /blu is the 12volt start wire that was used to bypass the ballast resisitor in stock 510s. When installing a Matchbox dizzy on a L motor most people just short the blk/wht with the black/ blu wire.

 

I guess the blk yel can subsitute the blk blu since the ORANGE wire from the ECU will go to the starter selinoid

 

as for the ACC why would you need that ???? thats to power when car is OFF and turn key the other way.

wait, I can hook up the orange wire to the black/yellow instead of the starter?

[XeroX]

wait, I can hook up the orange wire to the black/yellow instead of the starter?

 

Yes, assuming that you have the black with yellow wire already wired to the starter solenoid...you can just tap into it instead of running a new wire thru the firewall...

[XeroX]

the blk/ yel is the acutual starter wire that goes to the starter. Or used to on stock 510s

 

the blk /blu is the 12volt start wire that was used to bypass the ballast resisitor in stock 510s. When installing a Matchbox dizzy on a L motor most people just short the blk/wht with the black/ blu wire.

 

I guess the blk yel can subsitute the blk blu since the ORANGE wire from the ECU will go to the starter selinoid

 

as for the ACC why would you need that ???? thats to power when car is OFF and turn key the other way.

 

I always get confused with the right terminology my bad haha

 

When you hold the key down to start the car thats 12v START, then when you let go (and the car stays on, wich mine isnt doing! lol) thats acc on or just on? lol you know what i mean hopefully..lol

[banzai510(hainz)]

510s stock wiring

 

the blk/wht wire 12volt "ON" key position,

 

blk/blu is the 12volt "START" key position.

 

blk/yel 12volt to starter key in "Start" position.

 

simple

[XeroX]

Well i shorted out the blk/wht and the blk/blue and messed around with different things to try to get the car to stay running. At least now i have gotten all the relays to sound like they are activating in the right sequence (as opposed to before) but its STILL dieing when i let go of the key in the START position!

 

If i have the alternator wired incorrectly (via two wire plug) could this MAYBE be causing the problem? I thought i had it right, but it jus occured to be this morning when i woke up that it could be causing the problem...???

[sssr20det510]

check your ignition switch, you are only getting power when the the ignition is in the starting position so one of two things bad ignition or you have the wiring wrong. Get out the test light turn the ignition to the on position check your powers.

[sssr20det510]

when the ignition is in the starting position it only gives one extra power, when you let off and it goes to the run position it should only loose one power the one that goes to the starter solonoid. So if you are loosing more than its ignition switch if not you have the power wire hooked up wrong.

[banzai510(hainz)]

If i have the alternator wired incorrectly (via two wire plug) could this MAYBE be causing the problem? I thought i had it right, but it jus occured to be this morning when i woke up that it could be causing the problem...???

 

 

If your using the KA alternator I assume u shorted out the stock 510 plug in harness Where the oldvolt reg went to)using ther 2 jumper wires. and use the stock T conncetor to the new connector to the new alternator(asumme it s different than a T connector).

 

your close

 

pm Jeff again

 

yes the blk/blu is START only position for 12volts. once key goes back to ON youll loose that 12volts

 

reread Jeff post;

Really the black with white and the black with blue should be hooked together I just never put it in the drawing because most 510's I've worked on have the ZX ignition switch

 

jeff you need to update this and make the ddrawing simpler. Never assume poeple have those wires hooked up or not. otherwise I would not hook them up if it dont say to

 

Xerox Be honest Im more confused myself

[XeroX]

Well, I am going on a very embarrassing 4 day streak of failure with this shit.

 

Fuck triple checking cause i think i have torn apart the whole setup and redone it 30-40+ times (literally). Ive even questioned how i hooked up my relays, but NOPE...all legit...

 

The only thing i have been successful at is not getting the car to even start while holding the key down. I cant even remember how i had the wiring to get it to do that and i honestly don't care at this point.

 

but whatever, saving the forums of my sob story BACK to basics:

 

Voltage is legit from ignition in off and on and even start position (blk/blu and blk/wht). fuel pump kicks on and stays on. Im fouling my plugs with fuel so i know my ECU is firing my injectors but after checking for spark im getting none...

 

Any clues? I think i can honestly say my wiring makes a whole lot more sense than it did before when i got it to start holding down the key in the start position...

 

Leading back a few posts i followed my wiring to the original distributor on my LZ and they WERE shorted out, so i had it theoretically wired right to begin with even just tapping into the blk/wht wire...and yes i have just tapped directly to the harness and not depended on the connection in the engine bay...

 

any ideas?

[inline4]

have you tried to hook up the trigger straight to the battery instead of the black/white and black blue?

 

do that and see if the car turns over. if it does and stays on then you know its something to do with the switch. the test light stays on while cranking?

Edited April 12, 2010 by inline4

[XeroX]

have you tried to hook up the trigger straight to the battery instead of the black/white and black blue?

 

do that and see if the car turns over. if it does and stays on then you know its something to do with the switch. the test light stays on while cranking?

 

well i have good voltage to those wires even while cranking....

 

I dont have a test light im using a multi-meter but i am holding voltage. regardless im not getting any spark, i just pulled some plugs and just cranked it over to c if i got any spark again...still nothing...tried running constant 12v to ECU relay... I checked for voltage during cranking 3 days ago

 

Im really starting to think its the 97 wiring...I mean if its MY wiring then i seriously should consider going to special ed

[XeroX]

well i have good voltage to those wires even while cranking....

 

I dont have a test light im using a multi-meter but i am holding voltage. regardless im not getting any spark, i just pulled some plugs and just cranked it over to c if i got any spark again...still nothing...tried running constant 12v to ECU relay... I checked for voltage during cranking 3 days ago

 

Im really starting to think its the 97 wiring...I mean if its MY wiring then i seriously should consider going to special ed

 

i spent a stupid amount of time trying to trace wiring on the FSM for the 97 to the F connector...And so far it seems good, i pretty much started from scratch to come up with the wiring diagram i posted in post #1....i know more about KA wiring than i ever want to know...

 

its rediculous because ive been spending the past almost 2 hours trying to get the car to crank over like i did TO BEGIN WITH and I cant seem to do it!! arghh lol..

 

it would be nice to go to bed knowing i figured this stupid thing out...

[inline4]

well i have good voltage to those wires even while cranking....

 

I dont have a test light im using a multi-meter but i am holding voltage. regardless im not getting any spark, i just pulled some plugs and just cranked it over to c if i got any spark again...still nothing...tried running constant 12v to ECU relay... I checked for voltage during cranking 3 days ago

 

Im really starting to think its the 97 wiring...I mean if its MY wiring then i seriously should consider going to special ed

pm me your email, I'll send you a picture with everything spelled out on the wiring (when I had to redo mine, I misread it and I ended up rewiring and it worked)

[XeroX]

PM sent, thanks...

[inline4]

Any luck?

[XeroX]

Gona try it when i get off work..the relay for iacv o2 and ECCS power is the only thing I c I can change so I think I figured out the problem...at least I hope so...

[XeroX]

Scratch that...i thought i had something reversed on that relay but i dont..

 

my setup is exactly like that...

[inline4]

I couldnt tell you then :(

[XeroX]

I AM FUCKING DONE WITH THIS STUPID POS..

 

I am not going to sell it, cause i have put way to much effort in at this point...

 

HOWEVER, i am fucking done touching the wiring on this thing....100 bucks if someone can come and humor me and wire it up for me...NO JOKE

 

I dont even care if its something as stupid as ONE wire...come and do it and i dont even want to have anything to do with it...seriously...

 

/thread

[banzai510(hainz)]

Sorry to hear about that.

 

Thats whay I like L motors systems. I know Jeff(icehouse) can get it done. But as I always tell him, you aint going to be around forever and esp on the side Of the road helping me trouble shoot this thing.

[sssr20det510]

is it still doing the thing when it will run with the key in the start position and when you let off it dies???