XeroX Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 This is the diagram that i am using. My 97 wiring is a bit different and i dont seem to have seperate wires for ECCS relay and ECCS power, there seams to be a plug on the engine harness that allows me to plug a relay directly into it, so i am assuming that is were those 2 wires reside. Main Ign Power, IACV, and o2 are all bundled together to 12v out on one of my relays so thats OK. Same thing for the Fuel Pump, i believe i have all of that done correctly. NOW! here comes the problems: The car will start and turn over, but the minute i let go of the key after it starts it automatically shuts off. If i hold the key down it idles perfectly and everything works as it should... The one wire that i do not have (thats shows needs ground on the diagram above) is the "Black Ground wire". Where is this wire located? Is this off the ECU wiring or the F connector? I seem to only have one black ground wire on the F connector but it seems to be on the opposite side of where the ground would be on a 95 KA F connector. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 PM "Icehouse" Quote Link to comment
XeroX Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 I just PM'd him, hopefull i can get this sorted out tonight! i wana test drive! lol Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 dont rush! Rush, youll make a mistake then youll have alot of time to think about it. Jeff(Icehouse) He works ,goes to school and teaches you guys how to do this wiring all at once. Be patient. I remember your car from the realm with the Hi comp motor. people dont listen to me to stay away from High compression. But if you get this wired up youll be ahead of me,Faster and better daily driver . As I only know L motors. But car has been going for 22years Quote Link to comment
XeroX Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 dont rush! Rush, youll make a mistake then youll have alot of time to think about it. Jeff(Icehouse) He works ,goes to school and teaches you guys how to do this wiring all at once. Be patient. I remember your car from the realm with the Hi comp motor. people dont listen to me to stay away from High compression. But if you get this wired up youll be ahead of me,Faster and better daily driver . As I only know L motors. But car has been going for 22years Yea seriously lol, i know what you mean...that motor was running stupid high compression lol...what a shame! it was a nice build to say the least tho...oh well thats in the past now! my setup now should be alot better :) specially once i peice together a turbo kit ;) Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 Sounds like the power wire is hooked to the starter switch and not a switched power ??? Quote Link to comment
JDM510 Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 ^^yeah sounds like the wire that your sending the power to the relays is only on your START signal wire, wire when it needs to be 12v pwr in the bolth ON/START position.... i wired mine up exactly like the diagram and when i went to turn the car off it would not shut down... comon sense and a test light got the problem fixed within a few min. Quote Link to comment
XeroX Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 Thats what i was thinking too, but then again...its still not answering my questions in regards to the ground wire on the diagram...where is that wire? dont i need to ground it in the cabin? I have tried hooking it up with 12v on and start, and whenever i put the ket to on it just starts turning over without even trying to start the car lol.. Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 if it does that then your starter wire is on a switched power Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 Looking at the diagram make sure the orange wire is going to the starter signal wire, make sure with the key in the on position you have power at all the fuses ??? Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 I just did a '96 motor the other day, and I used this info for pin locations also, along with the other diagram you posted (which is great BTW, big thanks to the original author), and the basic manual, and it worked great. 20 minutes later, and it started right up and purred like a kitten. I grounded the ECU itself, and grabbed the black ground in location S2 and grounded that. Hope this helps with your '97 motor. Also, I'm with them, I think you have the wrong wire from the 510 side, or maybe your key switch is bad. (fairly common) Quote Link to comment
XeroX Posted April 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 I don't have a wire in s2 Its an un-used pin...like I said there is only one black wire on the entire f connector... As for the ignition..it was working perfectly fine when I had my lz in there not even 5 months ago or so... I really doubt it's the igntion... Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 you need to have a ground/black wire, but like others have mentioned, you're getting power at crank but not in acc. hook up an acc wire to your 12v power wire and that should solve the problem. ask me how I know :o Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 I don't have a wire in s2 Its an un-used pin...like I said there is only one black wire on the entire f connector... As for the ignition..it was working perfectly fine when I had my lz in there not even 5 months ago or so... I really doubt it's the igntion... you need to splice in the acc wire from the 510 harness into the trigger of the eccs power relay. whats happening is when you are cranking, the ecu is getting power, when it hits acc, the 12v source is cutting power to the ecu, thats the reason why its dying when you release the key. isn't your starter making a nasty noise if you keep the key on? Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 I just did a '96 motor the other day, and I used this info for pin locations also, along with the other diagram you posted (which is great BTW, big thanks to the original author), and the basic manual, and it worked great. 20 minutes later, and it started right up and purred like a kitten. I grounded the ECU itself, and grabbed the black ground in location S2 and grounded that. Hope this helps with your '97 motor. Also, I'm with them, I think you have the wrong wire from the 510 side, or maybe your key switch is bad. (fairly common) you need to make a run of the sohc t-stat housing spacers for us :) I need a water line and a place to put an autometer sending unit :o Quote Link to comment
XeroX Posted April 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 you need to splice in the acc wire from the 510 harness into the trigger of the eccs power relay. whats happening is when you are cranking, the ecu is getting power, when it hits acc, the 12v source is cutting power to the ecu, thats the reason why its dying when you release the key. isn't your starter making a nasty noise if you keep the key on? Yea it is cause it's still thinking it's trrying to start the motor but I though this was normal... But I guess what u guys are saying is that if I can get it to work by running the 12v acc to the ecu relay than I dnt have to worry about this mystery ground wire that isn't on my f connector? Quote Link to comment
XeroX Posted April 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 you need to make a run of the sohc t-stat housing spacers for us :) I need a water line and a place to put an autometer sending unit :o OT but this was another problem I was having when I tried to do my single belt conversion...te sohc water neck runs right in the way of my tps ( I have a dual plug tps since I has a 97) So basically I had to put my dohc neck and other thing lsback on to make it work without clearance issues :( I was thinking that if I could run a spacer I could gain enuff clearance to run a single belt and not have the neck Inthe way of gay ass tps sensor...blehhhhh Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 Yea it is cause it's still thinking it's trrying to start the motor but I though this was normal... But I guess what u guys are saying is that if I can get it to work by running the 12v acc to the ecu relay than I dnt have to worry about this mystery ground wire that isn't on my f connector? its actually grounded, otherwise it wouldnt start. you still need to track the ground wire down and ground it though. its black with a silver dot if I recall correctly. look in the engine bay for a black wire with a blue stripe. check the test light and that should run while cranking. splice that into the accessory wire off of the switch. when you do that, it should still give juice to the ecu when the key goes from start to on. my black with white cut out during crank. and I had to do what was described to get my car to start. Quote Link to comment
XeroX Posted April 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 Yea there is only one black wire (with silver dots) on the f connector so that has to be it...it's just not anywhere ne'er where the one on the 95 diagram shows lol Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 OT but this was another problem I was having when I tried to do my single belt conversion...te sohc water neck runs right in the way of my tps ( I have a dual plug tps since I has a 97) So basically I had to put my dohc neck and other thing lsback on to make it work without clearance issues :( I was thinking that if I could run a spacer I could gain enuff clearance to run a single belt and not have the neck Inthe way of gay ass tps sensor...blehhhhh yeah, you need to get a spacer or get someone to pie cut the tstat housing and reweld it away from the belt. I went the route of cutting into the housing and having someone tig the hole back in and grind to clean up and clear the belt. Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 Yea there is only one black wire (with silver dots) on the f connector so that has to be it...it's just not anywhere ne'er where the one on the 95 diagram shows lol look at the pinout of the ecu connector? Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 Yea it is cause it's still thinking it's trrying to start the motor but I though this was normal... But I guess what u guys are saying is that if I can get it to work by running the 12v acc to the ecu relay than I dnt have to worry about this mystery ground wire that isn't on my f connector? an easy way to test this is just connect that ecu 12v source wire straight to the battery. start the car and let go of the key and see if it keeps running. if it does, then what we're all saying is the reason why. pull the battery to stop the car Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 This is what I did for my single belt mod. http://community.ratsun.net/index.php?showtopic=9735 Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 This is what I did for my single belt mod. http://community.ratsun.net/index.php?showtopic=9735 I I still think you should make some of those, and drill out a spot for a temp sensor and one for a water line for a turbo. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 Sounds like you hooked the black with blue stripe from the factory 510 harness to trigger the ECU relay instead of the black with white. Just hook your test light to pin 86 on you ECU relay and see if it gets power in cranking and in the on position. If not you know one of the trigger wires is missing. Really the black with white and the black with blue should be hooked together I just never put it in the drawing because most 510's I've worked on have the ZX ignition switch. Try that. Also the ground near the ECU isn't needed. The 2 behind the valve cover or near the water neck on some are very very important. Yes on the later KA harnesses the ECCS relay is built in, of coarse on some ECU harnesses it's in a shitty spot and needs to be moved haha :) I want to see pics of the install!!! :) 1 Quote Link to comment
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