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S130Z, Dottie


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went up to the body shop Saturday to put the engine in my dad's GTO before it got put in primer or paint

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ended up my dad got the wrong motor mounts so that wasn't happening lol

 

also got a quote on my bodywork (or at least damage repair) and he told me to bring $1000 to fix it, looks like it'll be a while till I go up then lmao (searching for a better job currently)

 

so I went around the body shop, grabbed some parts off my parts car

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grabbed the left door and right fender off of it, so now I've got all these parts ready to prep and spray bomb to make the car look a little nicer for now

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and this was some of the other stuff that was up at the body shop

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the body guy's race car

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Twin Turbo 3000GT

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and a random 280ZX that was running super rich and fouling plugs (messed CHTS)

 

 

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Ever since I put my new header on without the wrap, my engine bay has been a lot hotter. So much so, in fact, that the heat from the header actually started melting the loom over my engine harness!! not good!! So I hit up a friend and he told me to get this DEI reflect-a-gold heat reflecting tape, so I got some! I'll let the pics do the talking lol

 

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this stuff is great!! as you can see I also wrapped my brake master heatshield with what I had left of my roll. On top of doing all that, I also changed fuel rails with a turbo one I picked up off a friend of mine (doesn't have the provision for the cold start injector, so it looks better) and deleted a water circuit that was doing nothing but looking bad and making it a PITA to work on lol

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Uh... yeah. lool

 

the rusty/stupid looking part just slips into my mufflers.

 

but now that I've got tips, they don't fit.

 

and my timing is fine, it's just that the wiring harness isn't "supposed" to be routed that way, I just made it that way because it looks better lol the loom is literally just about 2" above the header primaries, and it melted, but the wires didn't.

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one out of four done... blegh...

 

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I promise it will look better when I get to putting paint back on it!

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basically, outside ones adjust camber, and the inside ones will adjust toe, I don't think I'm going to use the Toyota bolts on the inside though, just the Nissan ones if I can get a hold of the cages and stuff.

 

 

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minus touching up the paint (prolly do that tomorrow) my crossmember is DONE!!

 

now I just gotta do the rest of the stuff for the subframe lol

 

axles welded

brake rotors

brake hoses

bushings (subframe, possibly control arms? not sure yet)

CV boots

CV grease

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

this is what I've been tinkering with lately:

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it's all cleaned up and looking pretty now.

 

got it in the car, it's only got one speaker lmao

 

got new speakers from a friend, only the left side works properly, the right side is quiet as fuck..

 

tested all the speakers, and they work fine. Even when I put the balancer knob thingy all the way to the right, barely ANY noise comes from the right side speakers :/

 

WHAT DO???

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this is what I've been tinkering with lately:

....

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...

got new speakers from a friend, only the left side works properly, the right side is quiet as fuck..

 

tested all the speakers, and they work fine. Even when I put the balancer knob thingy all the way to the right, barely ANY noise comes from the right side speakers :/

 

WHAT DO???

 

Making a couple of assumptions on the radio design here but, the fault will most likely lie in the internal amp for that side (most likely the repeated circuits with the big caps at the back of the board, right side of pic above), in which case it is either a bad connection, or a toasted cap (could be a cooked mosfet also, but much less likely since you get some sound). An easy way to test that is to swap them from side to side and see if the problem swaps sides also.

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