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Disc brake installed on a drum brake truck


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hey Mike this is Juan from K-E

you are right wilwood do not know nothing about datsuns

i am the one making the up grade using wilwood calipers

i use them for all my upgrades z cars, trucks 510 etc

if any body have a question about wilwood kits i can help


Loved them wilwoods, and easiest swap ever, what size master cylinder do u recommend?

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Loved them wilwoods, and easiest swap ever, what size master cylinder do u recommend?

wilwood has a nice one inch master cylinder it is a great idea to get it if you are planing to add the rear kit too

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I had an awful experience with the wilwood 1" m/c. I will never buy another wilwood m/c in my life. Ran full wilwoods front and back on my bubble flare 510 and the damn thing never gave consistent peddle feel. Worst of all it started to leak out the rear seal with less than 500miles! Went to a 7/8" m/c and it's much better. In fact, I run the 7/8" on all my datsuns with 4 wheel disks.

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Figured this is as good a place this as any. I'm putting the parts together to do the beebani D21 front brake conversion on my 521. For the master cylinder is the 280zx (disc/disc) recommended because people are doing all 4 wheels? I would think a 240z master (disc/drum) would work better if one is only converting the fronts.

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Trying to do discs on my 521 and 3 options, Mike, beebani and silvermine.


Mikes probably the most expensive but allows you to run stock 14” wheels? Seems to be the most involved install and needs the most parts. Silvermine requires you to turn down your hubs. Beebani doesn’t require any cutting or turning that I can see. Probably the cheapest too?



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Looks like you're pretty much summed it up already.  I was thinking that Silvermine used the same rotor as Bee's......which shouldn't require any machining.  I've never looked into their kit.  


A fairly recent development with mine is that it can be ordered to work with Toyota hubs if you want to convert to 5 lug.  The bracket stays the same, but the inner bearing adapter changes.  It would be a bit of a pain, but it could be changed later if needed.


If you're running 15" or larger rims, there's not much reason to go with mine.  Mine will also push the rim out about 5/8" on each side......but that's not an issue with stock rims.  The other two shouldn't move the rim......less than an 1/8", if any.  

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Looks like the deciding factor are rim diameter....

Mike's are great if trying to run the stock 14"s...


Beebani's is all straight bolt on.... I have his installed on my 521...


The silvermine seems all bolt on but you need 16s with a possible wheel spacer or 17s....

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You can get metric to sae adapters for a few bucks. 




Bought this shit to try and use the existing hard lines:


SAE 3/8 Tee: https://www.ebay.com/itm/FEMALE-BRAKE-LINE-TEE-3-8-x-24NF-Bubble-Seat-with-Mounting-Hole/391976993208?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 


(4) 3/8 - 24 x m10 x 1 inverted adapters :  https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/143671/00343 


Still not clear on whether I need bubble or inverted adapters though?! Anyone know?


Plan is to use adapters between new metric rubber hoses and existing front hard lines. Also between rear hard line and the new metric MC.  

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They are all inverted flares.  The bubble flares are mainly on the European vehicles.


This is the adapter that I send with the brake kits.  It allows the SAE hard line to connect to the Metric brake hose.  You can use one of these to connect an SAE line to the new metric m/c.  







So....how I would do it.  Get a new piece of brake line(SAE) from the parts store about the right length.  You can bend some wire(tig filler rod, coat hanger might be long enough) in the basic shape you want the line to be.  you can then figure out how long the new tube needs to be.  Make sure you use the correct circuit on the m/c.  Over the years, the front and rear circuits switched places.   There is a 4(5?) way splitter on the firewall.  The bottom line goes to the rear brakes.  Disconnect that one and connect it to your new line with a butt/barrel connector.  Get a plug for the hole left in the splitter.  I know this thread I'm referring to is a 411 thread, but it's got pics of the splitter, the barrel connector, the new line I ran to convert it.  http://community.ratsun.net/topic/10125-410411-disc-brake-mod/page-8


On the 411, I ran two new lines so that I could flare a metric nut onto one end of each tube and skip using the adapters.

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Thanks Mike.


I talked to Crash about this a lot today and came to pretty much the same conclusion as you did.  I picked up two of those exact connections today just to see what they look liked.  Glad I got the right ones. 


I drew this up to help me understand it:




Looks I would need 4 of those adapters, 2 between the hard and rubber line on the fronts and 2 at the MC for the existing hardline from the tee and the new rear section.  I can buy a section of brake line with 3/8 fittings already on it to make up the distance for the rear line.  Then use a union/butt/barrel to join the existing rear hard line and the new section like you said.  


IF all that doesn't work I can just run new hard lines, flare metric nuts on them and get a new metric 3 way tee.  

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If you end up buying my kit, I include the adapters for the 521 and older trucks to go between the hard lines and hoses.  


Looks like you've got it figured out nicely.


If you're going to flare new nuts on, you can always flare a metric on one end and an SAE on the other if you wanted to keep the original tee for some reason. 


If you....or those following this thread....aren't familiar with flaring brake lines, I've got a vid showing how I do it.  I'm sure there's some better vids out there, but obviously, I have easier access to mine. :)


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