burrito213 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 Yeah, especially if they are in one piece and not rusted to death! This is the first week I bought it, I lowered it and replaced the slave cylinder, of course, and it now rides on red 16" steel wheels with polished caps. Other than a recovered seat it is completely stock, miserable on the freeway and now way too low to drive. It is good to look at and dream about driving after the L20 swap in store. this is yours?..... awsome!!!!!.... i saw this and a few others when i bought my truck and was trying to figure out what to do with mine...if i may ask, what wheels are they?... and yes, the freeway is torture for the driver. Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 this request was for DJDITTY...hope this is what you need. let me know if there is anything else i could help with these are pictures of the tail light removal and the guts of that area: Before removal: phillips head screw on top: my trim removes after that screw is gone (yeah, the pup likes to help too): there is a bottom screw which i have successfully broke so nothing to remove here: for me, its a lift and pull method to get the casing out (there is no gasket or weather strip here) then here is the back of the light: here is the light fully removed (the bulbs have a rubber piece that slips into the case to hold..mine are pretty shot and one has electrical tape for a quick fix) Quote Link to comment
apos Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 Thanks Burrito! The wheels were a Pomona swap meet find 16x6 and 16x7 front/back. Great deal and fit perfectly on my 521. I needed to do a little fender lip pinching on the NL but they fit fine. These were intended for a Chevrolet but the seller changed his mind after powder coating them red. I bought the caps at the same swap meet. Tires were a little trickier and more expensive than anticipated but they sure make a difference in handling and looks. Over all it was probably about $650 for the set. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 (the bulbs have a rubber piece that slips into the case to hold..mine are pretty shot and one has electrical tape for a quick fix) black RTV, cured & trimmed to fit should last a lot longer. Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 Thanks Burrito! The wheels were a Pomona swap meet find 16x6 and 16x7 front/back. Great deal and fit perfectly on my 521. I needed to do a little fender lip pinching on the NL but they fit fine. These were intended for a Chevrolet but the seller changed his mind after powder coating them red. I bought the caps at the same swap meet. Tires were a little trickier and more expensive than anticipated but they sure make a difference in handling and looks. Over all it was probably about $650 for the set. seriously?...pomona?.... pomona swap is awsome but never find much. i dont think i look good enough and my girlfriend burns-out 1/2 way through the day... i am going to try irwindale this weekend. i think their swapmeet is this weekend. hopefully snag some ideas and/or parts Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 black RTV, cured & trimmed to fit should last a lot longer. noted...i have to gut all that wiring and hopefully get a wiring harness set up. but for now, i will try that. thanks again Quote Link to comment
Djditty Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 Yep that's great! Thanks! Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 so I removed the clutch slave cylinder and played with it a little bit to get an idea how it works but it just fell apart when I took it off... I am assuming I may need a new one? I also noticed that the hose going into the clutch slave was really close to the (what I believe) the torsion bar.. Is that normal finally, the piece/arm that was attached to the clutch slave had alot of play when the slave wasn't attached to it and I was wondering does that mean anything?... Sounded like metal clanking metal I would have taken pictures but I was doing this at dusk and visibility was poor thanks so far for everyone who was helping me...once I get past this hurdle I will post some updates of some real progress Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 going to be on a pause for a while... ran into some money issues (spending too much and not looking at my bank account) next in store i am going to get some needed tools -engine puller/hoist -engine stand -better jack -possible pneumatic wrench and compressor its cool though, they invented harbor freight for us budget minded people and the 20% coupon also try to pick up more parts and network up some more contacts for the 320 see u soon Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 24, 2010 Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 Anyone looking for the HF coupons can find them in pretty much any car mag. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 24, 2010 Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 next in store i am going to get some needed tools -engine puller/hoist -engine stand -better jack some times HF cheap means buying more than once. :angry: i do like the compact lo-pro (blue) 'racing' jack. just barely fits under the sedan x-member wait till its on sale, i think i spent ~$45 w/the coupon. :) buy a hoist and ill trade a stand to borrow it ;) Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 The challenge with the 510 slave is that the bleeder valve comes out on the side....right at the torsion bar....but I'll bet the bore is the same and the guts might swap Since he has a floor shift trans, there's a good chance the 520/521 slave will bolt right up. On the column shift trans, the slave is an odd duck and the bolts pattern is way different. Making the adapter bracket is on my to-do list okay, so i cried wolf about this budget siesta but this pesty slave cylinder is killing me..... here is the question: here is a photo of a fairlady pics clutch slave.... see the spring?.... my arm has a little notch for a spring (all chewed up but its there) but it does not have a notch on the slave cylinder.... am i missing something? my pic is the bottom one Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 im buying a new one! Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 here is a different side Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 I went back and looked at some of your original pics. First off....you have a '63 NL...guaranteed it had a column shift trans originally.....so the trans you have in there is from a later model. Looking at this pic....you can see the arm was cut off at the hole and a new hole for the spring was added. The bracket on the tranny bolt is for the other end of the return spring. The slave should have the hose inline like the one in the roadster pic. My guess is that a previous owner didn't have the spring hooked up. Since the arm and the slave won't return all the way without the spring, the slave kept pumping up a bit and the pushrod would get adjusted so the clutch would release. That's probably why it's so far out of adjustment. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Looking at this pic.... yah! what beezelbub said! no spring siestas!!! is the extra piece, on the tranny, where the spring was? (or is supposed to go now?) Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 FUH-INALLY i got my clutch slave cylinder....damn snail mail! (still dont even know if this is the right one) i hope i get to put it on this weekend but i got daddy-daughter duty so we'll see i also need a spring (i think) anyways i'll keep you posted. and yes, thats -bay in the backdrop Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 FUH-INALLY i also need a spring (i think) 2! ;) you also need the rounded nuts that fits inside the fork. isnt that what was an issue as well? Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 that too. but the round nut is on the old cylinder.... any good brake/clutch bleed kits out there?.... HB has one but heard poor reviews on it Quote Link to comment
LAYEDOUTB2K Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 That's a real clean 320 you have there. Hopefully you get that issue resolved. I always treated the trans in my 320 very nice because I knew I never wanted to run into anything like this. First off....you have a '63 NL Not necessarily. The very early production '64s did have the '63 front ends on them, mine included. I'm guessing the ID plate does have '64 on it since someone put a "1964" plate on it. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 but the round nut is on the old cylinder.... any good brake/clutch bleed kits out there? :cool: my kid! doesnt last long enough for all 4 brakes though. :lol: gravity bleed, then usually 1 - 2 times, back on the hiway! i rented a random unit from vatozone before, it was OK Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Not necessarily. The very early production '64s did have the '63 front ends on them, mine included. I'm guessing the ID plate does have '64 on it since someone put a "1964" plate on it. ya...that's possible. I don't know if there's a way to get an actual build date on them. Good chance it was built at the end of '63. Back then, the date got put on when they sold. It would be interesting to find out if they had a specific cutoff day when they switched or if the switch happened when the '63 parts ran out. That switch date could have been in early Jan. ....maybe? :) Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 ya...that's possible. I don't know if there's a way to get an actual build date on them. Good chance it was built at the end of '63. Back then, the date got put on when they sold. It would be interesting to find out if they had a specific cutoff day when they switched or if the switch happened when the '63 parts ran out. That switch date could have been in early Jan. ....maybe? well, for my Datsun... i'm stamped as a 1964... but if you look at my first roll of pics i have a 63 front end.... would that make me a 63 and a 1/2 i used to have a ford ranger with the half issue... funny thing was i had a fuel filter for both model years (87-88) hooked up and inline... trusty ol' haynes manual ... help figure that out Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 so I have been told to flirt with the idea. $5 Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 you can still get the original return spring from nissan.cc i've bought a few of them. part number 30533-76001 $1.68 or 30533-21010 $1.66 Quote Link to comment
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