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"The Blue Burrito"


burrito213

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If you can't tell the fluid by smell....pull the dipstick....if the fluid that drips off of it looks the same, it's eng oil. Typically, your eng oil will be darker. Just make sure you post up what you find. Lot's of guys will follow this and the troubleshooting help doesn't do any good if the final answers aren't posted smile.gif

 

 

i found out that the leak smell is transmission oil (cat piss).... its funny because it is really leaking onto the floor/drip mat....can that gasket/seal really cause that much to go out?..im thinking the slave going bad plays a role too but im not too sure. i still think the transmission is still solid but would-or- is going to fix the leaking before any damage could really happen.

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Hard to tell from the pic, but there should be a round end nut on that bolt. It will be on the other side of the through out arm from what we see in the pic. It will have a ball shape on the side that goes against the arm and the arm will have a cup shape around the hole the bolt goes through. The two ball surfaces mate together and allow for a pivot action as the slave actuates the arm. There's a good chance that it simply vibrated out of adjustment. Pull the arm away from the slave until you feel firm resistance. Look at the nut that's there. If it has a round end on it, spin it towards the arm until it almost touches. You will want to leave it loose enough there the arm will move back and forth about an 1/8". There should also be a second nut between the ball end nut and the slave cyl. If there's not, you will need to put one on there or you will constantly have the adjustment going out. You will want to push the bolt into the slave as far as you can get it as you check for that 1/8".

If this doesn't make sense, download the factory manual at olddatsuns.com's tech page. :)

 

As for the oil leak.....how did you fill it? It may be overfilled.

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Wow burrito, that is a pretty truck. I would start with the simplest thing and that is the slave cylinder. I had the same problem with mine when I brought her home but it went out in the driveway. I called around for what seemed like weeks and finally found one with Rod of Rod's Datsun Parts. Wasn't cheap but I can drive it now. And like Mike said, there seems to be a nut or two missing from the slave cylinder shaft. But just because I have one of the few un-restored NL320's doesn't make me an expert! I'll have to post some pics of it at JCCS a couple years ago.

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Wow burrito, that is a pretty truck. I would start with the simplest thing and that is the slave cylinder. I had the same problem with mine when I brought her home but it went out in the driveway. I called around for what seemed like weeks and finally found one with Rod of Rod's Datsun Parts. Wasn't cheap but I can drive it now. And like Mike said, there seems to be a nut or two missing from the slave cylinder shaft. But just because I have one of the few un-restored NL320's doesn't make me an expert! I'll have to post some pics of it at JCCS a couple years ago.

 

 

yeah, i never knew what i was getting into when i bought the truck....at first, seeing the previous owner drive it around i was hooked and said what more than a tune would really be needed on this datto...well, alot... not alot of in terms to getting it driving again but more of in restoration. thats where there is alot of work and seeing the other threads i know there will be alot of fabrication too... im ready though.. i will look into (Rod's Datsun Parts) for that slave...

 

its wierd though, out of all the crud, grime, dirt, and stuff uderneath the datto i am surprised that the cleanest thing (the clutch slave) would be the one going bad.. oh well.

 

 

biggrin.gif

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what happened was that the nut backed off, which let the guts of the slave over extend. Do the adjustment, then fill the m/c reservoir with fluid and crack open the bleeder valve on the slave. You can let it gravity bleed usually. Basically, wait until fluid comes out of the bleeder valve. :)

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mklotz

 

do i just put the boot back on?...will it be okay?

 

 

CopyofCopyofCIMG0309.jpg

 

 

however, i really think a nut fell off.. i know the pic does no justice... is there an alternative or bolt size?... couldnt find one at my work shop and thats when the zipties tried to come in because the more i pushed the stem in the less of the clanking noise i heard...

CIMG0317.jpg

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I can't tell from the pics if the cup is still inside the cylinder....if it is, you can probably just put the boot back on.

 

In the top pic, it clearly shows that you have both of the nuts we've been talking about. The top nut(away from the arm) is the lock nut...the one with 6 flats. The lower nut(2 flats) is the ball ended nut.

 

This is basically what you should find inside the slave cylinder. The ball nut and lock nut are different on this pic, yours are setup correctly, just not adjusted right. I didn't find a blown apart pic like this in the 320 manual....I might have missed it...this was quick :)

 

clutchslave.jpg

 

If you're missing parts, replace the hole thing. If it's all there, put it back together. That nut should be closer to an inch from the end of the threads. It's in WAY too far!! I'm not sure how it got like that since it appears the locknut is on correctly. My guess would be that it was adjusted wrong. It was probably extended, and someone adjusted the nut so the throwout bearing would disengage. Of course, it didn't take much for the slave to over extend with the adjustment like that. When you try to bleed it or operate the clutch....if you push the pedal down and then let it up...if the slave does not go back in, the pedal linkage on the m/c may be set wrong. With the pedal all the way up, there should be a bit of play(1/8") between the linkage rod and the cup in the m/c. The piston(cup) in the m/c MUST be allowed to come all the way back when the pedal is released. If not, it's pumping up the slave and not letting the throwout bearing release. When you have the slave linkage adjusted, you should put a return spring on the arm...even if you have to drill a new hole next to the original....which is the half hole on the end....looks like someone ground the end of the arm off.

 

First thing is to find out if you have all the pieces to the slave.

Second, put it back together and adjust the linkage....then get a spring on it.(hardware or car parts store should have something)

Third, check the linkage at the m/c(master cylinder).

...once that's done, put fluid in and bleed the system. From there, you should be good to go.

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met up with a fellow datto owner (kwoo510) this weekend and picked up some needed parts for my LN320. cant wait to see when he comes out with his "vg" swap for his L320.

 

engine and transmission:

CIMG0322.jpg

 

CIMG0330.jpg

 

CIMG0328.jpg

 

CIMG0319.jpg

 

Did you get that engine/tranny in Fresno??

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yes sir. How you doing buddy? nice to see your still around. You get your truck going? I think you were looking to get a tranny for the vg?

 

Sorry bout the threadjack burrito. Ken's a cool guy.

 

 

no worries jefe... Yeah, ken sold me some needed parts for my truck and he is cool people with a nice 320 build....

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First thing is to find out if you have all the pieces to the slave.

Second, put it back together and adjust the linkage....then get a spring on it.(hardware or car parts store should have something)

Third, check the linkage at the m/c(master cylinder).

...once that's done, put fluid in and bleed the system. From there, you should be good to go.

if part# 4.17??? is worn out, thats whats causing the leak.

maybe the rebuild kit is avail. as long as the bore is clean, its a simple task.

the boot keeps it clean, doesnt hold fuid pressure.

 

 

how different is the slave (not the actuator) from a 510 slave?

they look very similiar in dimension.

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Hey Burrito,

 

I believe that a 520 or a 521 slave will work with minimal modification. Check Rock Auto 1966 NISSAN 520 PICKUP 1.3L 1299cc 79cid L4 [J13] : Clutch : Clutch Slave Cylinder Part # 0721241.

 

Buyer's Guide: BECK/ARNLEY 0721241 Clutch Slave Cylinder

NISSAN 1600 (1968 - 1970)

NISSAN 2000 (1968 - 1970)

NISSAN 520 PICKUP (1966 - 1968)

NISSAN 521 PICKUP (1969 - 1972)

 

1966520ClutchSlaveCylinderBA0721241.jpg

 

RA also lists a rebuild kit.

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The challenge with the 510 slave is that the bleeder valve comes out on the side....right at the torsion bar....but I'll bet the bore is the same and the guts might swap :)

 

Since he has a floor shift trans, there's a good chance the 520/521 slave will bolt right up. On the column shift trans, the slave is an odd duck and the bolts pattern is way different. Making the adapter bracket is on my to-do list :)

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Hard to tell from the pic, but there should be a round end nut on that bolt. It will be on the other side of the through out arm from what we see in the pic. It will have a ball shape on the side that goes against the arm and the arm will have a cup shape around the hole the bolt goes through. The two ball surfaces mate together and allow for a pivot action as the slave actuates the arm. There's a good chance that it simply vibrated out of adjustment. Pull the arm away from the slave until you feel firm resistance. Look at the nut that's there. If it has a round end on it, spin it towards the arm until it almost touches. You will want to leave it loose enough there the arm will move back and forth about an 1/8". There should also be a second nut between the ball end nut and the slave cyl. If there's not, you will need to put one on there or you will constantly have the adjustment going out. You will want to push the bolt into the slave as far as you can get it as you check for that 1/8".

If this doesn't make sense, download the factory manual at olddatsuns.com's tech page. smile.gif

 

As for the oil leak.....how did you fill it? It may be overfilled.

 

i am starting to understand what you are talking about... thanks...i hope i can get this acomplished tonight.. if it works, i am going to check fluids and hope i can drive the datto again.

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Yeah, especially if they are in one piece and not rusted to death!

 

PC280085.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is the first week I bought it, I lowered it and replaced the slave cylinder, of course, and it now rides on red 16" steel wheels with polished caps. Other than a recovered seat it is completely stock, miserable on the freeway and now way too low to drive. It is good to look at and dream about driving after the L20 swap in store.

 

white-06_2.jpg

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