freeze / welch plugs?

[zed]

is there a trick to removing freeze / welch plugs from a block? Do you always renew these when rebuilding a motor? thanks

[DanielC]

Knock them into the water jacket with a small hammer. Grab them with a pair of vice grips, and pry them out.

Since you have to remove the motor to replace them, general practice is to replace them when you have easy access to them.

If you know the entire history of the motor, and there is no rust in the water jacket, you might consider leaving them in, but that is really not recommended.

[banzai510(hainz)]

soem people drill a hole in one side of it and get sheet metal screw and try to pry it out.

 

Some take a punch and hit it on one side to get it to spin and then use a pliers to pull it out.

 

drill a few holes to weaken it up also(so it can collaspe a bit) not to ruin the block circle

[zed]

thanks for the advice

[racerx]

Yes, you can drill a hole, just be careful not to drill inside of the engine, and then use a screwdriver to pry it out, maybe a vise grip at the same time. I just did this recently.

[hang_510]

yes & yes

 

hammer a flat blade screwdriver into (the center) and pry out. pliers/vise grips for the stubborn ones. :angry:

 

 

how bad would it be to have a $1 part fail and kill the new motor.

[Unclejesse88]

Yes yes and yes. Like posted, the core plugs are so cheap, even if you knew the history of the vehicle you would still be ahead by replacing them. Most people recommend the brass ones too, although I couldn't tell you why

[I'm BLUE]

Agree with all above posts :D , just make sure not to mark up sealing surface area ;)

 

(1) I like to Punch them out with a large diameter socket or pipe/ball pein hammer combo ( socket preferably ) , heavier hammer on the socket , once in block retrieve to spin it towards you so it sticks out 1/2 way , then pull them out with a pair of vise grips ( or in my case all of them are rotten with the ring edges still left in emmm :blink: :lol: ) Also install with large socket or pipe/tool of the same diameter on the inside rim edge if you can ( for even pressure )

 

(2) Vacuum/flush out rocks and shit in block behind it ( some of my engines had rocks in them :blink: , some were very :D clean , IDK ? )

 

(3) I like to use brass core/freeze/welch/machining plugs for replacements :cool: , but nothing wrong with steel that's what is in many engines :)

 

(4) No reason not to replace since the things cost like $.60-$1.50 a piece , and remember to get ALL of them or it's not worth doing it ( front/back/sides ) ( one goes others are close in my experience. )

 

Just my experience + 2 cents

[hang_510]

Most people recommend the brass ones too, although I couldn't tell you why

rust.

 

i have an extra set of 40mm steel plugs avail(for whatever they cost me) if you still need em.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I had steel ones in a Jap crate motor(NEW REBUILT)

The motor sat for years before I installed it. then it leaked threw the freeze plug. It was steel and rusted from the inside out. Thats how I learnd to change a freeze plug. Lucky it wasnt the rear one by underneath the bell housing.

[hang_510]

The motor sat for years before I installed it.

not an issue in a running motor with good coolant.

 

but most datsuns sit before hand... and with rusty water :angry: