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Bought a 1986 Toyota Pickup, need advice...


  

11 members have voted

  1. 1. What should I do with my 1986 Toyota Pickup?

    • Keep it and get the new motor.
      2
    • Keep it and get a used motor.
      5
    • Sell it and find one that is running and 5speed.
      4


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Well I bought something that isn't a datsun. My dad told me about a pickup that looked like the city was going to tow away. I managed to find the owner's info and actually looked him up on facebook and got in touch with him that way. Picked it up on sunday and had it at a friend's shop on monday. I knew the truck wasn't running but hoped it was something simple... The previous owner looked like a pretty heavy stoner and was giving pretty vague answers to what happened to it. Something about leaking oil and smoking.

 

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As the truck sat for a few months. Abandoned by its owner. 1986 Toyota Pickup SR5 Xtracab 22RE (EFI)

 

Well, the guys at the shop got everything hooked up and turned it on only to get a horrible metal on metal noise coming from the engine. It has been determined the engine is finished and needs to be replaced or rebuilt.

 

My question to you folks is what path should I take? I like the truck and this particular body style but it is an automatic which isn't as desirable. It is in good shape with some rust around the bed. Over all looks pretty good but is it going to cost me more than its worth to fix?

 

My options are:

 

1. Get a used motor swap it in and call it done. A cheaper option but could be spendy down the road as old pieces fail.

 

2. Get the motor rebuilt and have a fresh motor that will last.

 

3. Or sell it and get my money back plus a little extra and look for something else.

 

 

Since I don't have the free time or mechanical skill to mess with this truck, I would have a friend's shop doing the work which would cost me about 600 for a used motor + $500 or so labor. or a new motor for 1200 + 500 labor.

 

My biggest concern is what else might be wrong with the truck or if the trans is going to last. To put all the money in to getting the motor etc, and to have something else not work would be almost too much. Especially if the trans fails or has already gone bad. I just don't want to get too much wrapped up in to this truck if I can go buy a similar one that is running for less (although it's pretty unlikely to find one that isn't hacked up or a half finished project).

 

So, vote and offer my some Ratsunly advice. :unsure:

 

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If I may suggest take it to your buddy , or take you buddy to it , have him diagnose certain issues , weak points , and check the truck out to give you a better idea on "the whole picture" of what it will really cost you for the truck in general (more than just engine/trans if he can ? ) . Yota's are cool , but it would be wise you can at least do your own brakes , u-joints , timing chain , etc... and some mechancial ability in just my humble opinion since even on these a little tinkering commonly is required.

 

It is a nice truck , straight body , and has potential. Is this going to be a Daily Driver or Project ?

 

My brother owned a carbed 85 yota 22R , not sure if I would want one in an auto though ? ( never driven an auto version ? )

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You can find 5 speeds pretty easily. If you want a reliable runner I'd do as DTP suggested and get the whole truck checked out.

 

Then I'd get a rebuilt or rebuild the current motor. Swap in the 5 speed and drive the piss out of it. :cool:

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Just get a used motor that has been bench tested and get on with it. If you want a manual tranny go find a truck that already has one. There a million of these still around so unless you got this super cheap (<$500) just roll with what you got. My DD is an 83 4x4 with 260 K and it never skips a beat, even loaded down with 500 lbs of tools all the time.

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If I may suggest take it to your buddy , or take you buddy to it , have him diagnose certain issues , weak points , and check the truck out to give you a better idea on "the whole picture" of what it will really cost you for the truck in general (more than just engine/trans if he can ? ) . Yota's are cool , but it would be wise you can at least do your own brakes , u-joints , timing chain , etc... and some mechancial ability in just my humble opinion since even on these a little tinkering commonly is required.

 

It is a nice truck , straight body , and has potential. Is this going to be a Daily Driver or Project ?

 

My brother owned a carbed 85 yota 22R , not sure if I would want one in an auto though ? ( never driven an auto version ? )

 

I called up my friend today and he will be looking it over for any other potential issues. Hopefully nothing major. I can do the other stuff, but the engine is a bit over my head at the moment and I don't have a work space large enough to do it.

 

The truck will be sort of less than a daily driver. Just an occasional use vehicle. Not going to do anything crazy to it, keep it mostly stock.

 

I've never driven an auto toyota pick up this old.. so I dunno if it'll be gutless. Hopefully its got more torque than my dad's automatic tacoma. :P

 

You can find 5 speeds pretty easily. If you want a reliable runner I'd do as DTP suggested and get the whole truck checked out.

 

Then I'd get a rebuilt or rebuild the current motor. Swap in the 5 speed and drive the piss out of it. :cool:

 

 

Thanks, I'd like to get the 5speed it would make it more fun to drive, a lot of those old automatics suck but can't argue for the price. :lol:

 

 

Just get a used motor that has been bench tested and get on with it. If you want a manual tranny go find a truck that already has one. There a million of these still around so unless you got this super cheap (<$500) just roll with what you got. My DD is an 83 4x4 with 260 K and it never skips a beat, even loaded down with 500 lbs of tools all the time.

 

I did get it super cheap. The truck does have 250k+ miles so its been around a while... I think I may go the way of the used motor, if well maintained it could run forever and it saves me $600 for other crap. I assume well maintained it'll run for a very long time. :thumbup:

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I'd find one that runs unless you like the auto. Frankly these engines are severly overpriced used, and they are not my first choice. It's a good engine but frankly I cant stand working on it. A retard designed it. Sounds like it probably broke a timing guide or chain. That is probably one of the weak single row timing chain setups with plastic guides. Their biggest problem is people driving them like the dual row and think they never have to do the timing. Basically they got mitsu syndrome, you actually have to do maintenance on the timing at a certain point, otherwise they fail.

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I'd find one that runs unless you like the auto. Frankly these engines are severly overpriced used, and they are not my first choice. It's a good engine but frankly I cant stand working on it. A retard designed it. Sounds like it probably broke a timing guide or chain. That is probably one of the weak single row timing chain setups with plastic guides. Their biggest problem is people driving them like the dual row and think they never have to do the timing. Basically they got mitsu syndrome, you actually have to do maintenance on the timing at a certain point, otherwise they fail.

 

Yeah, i've really been considering the auto and... I'm not a big fan of them in trucks.. robs what little power they have to begin with.

 

I might end up selling it... we'll see. Thank for the info.

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Richard, the auto is hard to abuse unless towing with it. Agreed they are lame, so anyone driving one soon finds out that you cant spin the tires or drift it and will soon stop trying and just drive it. The only driver input is selecting Drive and stepping on the gas. There's no 6K clutch dumps and power shifts nor crazy 40MPH downshifts to 1st. I would rather have an auto for a parts motor because of this.

 

Check the Tranny dipstick. If it's been overheated (towing)or abused (towing, hill climbing) the fluid will be anywhere from a dull cloudy brownish red brick color to black. The fluid should look bright see through red just like right off the shelf. A slight off color could just be from not changing and is due. Goes without saying black is bad. I've driven a Pontiac Grand Prix with black fluid before, from a major climb through the mountains on a logging road. I drained it an flushed with fresh and drove it for years after. The black is clutch material worn off from lack or hydraulic pressure and friction heat that has cooked the oil like a deep fryer. I was lucky, so if dark fluid flush it and sell. If there's no tow ball on the bumper this is good. Did the guy off road with it?

 

You may find a replacement motor with an auto left on it.

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I'm not gonna say what you should do, but I do know that Toyotas, especially that era, are rock-solid. My buddy drives one that his dad bought brand new, it's also an 86' with a 4-speed, and it's carbed. Fires up every time, runs like it's brand new. The thing's got close to 300k on it, and there's never been any major issues with it. If you want a reliable daily, you're definitely not far from one. And like it's been said, parts for these are plentiful, and if you don't know much about wrenching, you should learn. It's a skill that will help you until the day you die. Lots of resources on the internet for these Toyota pickups.. I wouldn't be surprised if you found everything you needed for fairly inexpensive.

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Richard, the auto is hard to abuse unless towing with it. Agreed they are lame, so anyone driving one soon finds out that you cant spin the tires or drift it and will soon stop trying and just drive it. The only driver input is selecting Drive and stepping on the gas. There's no 6K clutch dumps and power shifts nor crazy 40MPH downshifts to 1st. I would rather have an auto for a parts motor because of this.

 

Check the Tranny dipstick. If it's been overheated (towing)or abused (towing, hill climbing) the fluid will be anywhere from a dull cloudy brownish red brick color to black. The fluid should look bright see through red just like right off the shelf. A slight off color could just be from not changing and is due. Goes without saying black is bad. I've driven a Pontiac Grand Prix with black fluid before, from a major climb through the mountains on a logging road. I drained it an flushed with fresh and drove it for years after. The black is clutch material worn off from lack or hydraulic pressure and friction heat that has cooked the oil like a deep fryer. I was lucky, so if dark fluid flush it and sell. If there's no tow ball on the bumper this is good. Did the guy off road with it?

 

You may find a replacement motor with an auto left on it.

 

I don't really know much about the truck didn't get much history. Don't think it'd done much off-roading its tires don't look like the type for that and it doesn't have a tow hitch. Has a hole in the bumper for a ball. So likely hasn't towed much of anything.

 

I've had a few folks warning me against a used motor mostly due to the head gasket blowing. Since it appears to be quite common on these motors with this much age. So if I do keep it I may go for new motor even though its kind of expensive. At this point I've told a friend to contact this guy who's interested in the truck. So we'll see if his offer is any good.

 

Over all the truck has been pretty neglected over the years with owners who just drove it to death. It mostly needs a lot of cleaning up to be a decent truck. Bed needs some rust work or to be replaced. Starting to bubble rust in some spots.

 

Doesn't help my decision that I found a pretty decent late 70's 620 with a 5speed and front disc with a "carburator issue" for $200-300. :(

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Hands down get a Datsun. Lots of support here for it. Parts too. What you describe can only be a '78 or '79 620. If it has square headlights it's an '80- 720.

 

Lol, I know my datsuns. I know it was late 70's 620 just didn't know if it was 78 or 79. I'll likely buy the datsun regardless of if I sell the toyota or not. Its just a good price and fairly clean. Plus I could swap a motor in that much easier than a toyota. ;)

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one thing I should mention is that I have little to no work space for a serious project. So if I was to do an engine on a truck it would be done by a shop. :(

 

yeah , I know how that goes <_< , meet up with a ratsun member somewhere in your area ? Just a thought :cool: learn a thing or too from eachother is always a good way to go ;) :D

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yeah , I know how that goes <_< , meet up with a ratsun member somewhere in your area ? Just a thought :cool: learn a thing or too from eachother is always a good way to go ;) :D

 

Yeah, I know one member pretty well down here but people are pretty busy these days. We could use some more ratsun members in my area. :cool:

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Is this a 4 wheel drive? My son owned one. If you don't keep the antifreeze at at least 50% strength the aluminum head erodes around the water passages and leaks water into the cylinders. Sounds like what you have. Solution is a good aluminum welder or at less cost a 40,000 mile used Japanese motor. The 4WD transmission was also used [according to my son] in the Jeep Cherokee 4WD, so that may be an unexpected source if your transmission is going south.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I was considering selling it but my dad is slowly convincing me to keep it and just have the work done. It would be about 3,000 total investment when done (rough estimate) but thats for a new motor and everything (hopefully) in good shape and working. Can't find many trucks for sale with a fresh rebuild and fairly clean body toyota for that cheap.

 

Its a hefty investment but this truck has made it 220,000 some miles I think 3000 for another 200k+ miles is a good deal. :D

 

Was going to go for a 620 but the guy i'm trying to buy from keeps dicking around and the title is a cluster F**k. Oh well. :lol:

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good looking truck, too bad about the auto but those trucks are pretty light. Better than having a newer gen one with the 3.0 and auto....boooooooooo. 3k is alot to throw at a truck you have never driven or know if you like or not. Up here you might get 800$ for something that rust free. even with the dead 22r. post it for sale on the vancouver b.c. craigslist and i bet someone would drive down and buy it :P

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good looking truck, too bad about the auto but those trucks are pretty light. Better than having a newer gen one with the 3.0 and auto....boooooooooo. 3k is alot to throw at a truck you have never driven or know if you like or not. Up here you might get 800$ for something that rust free. even with the dead 22r. post it for sale on the vancouver b.c. craigslist and i bet someone would drive down and buy it :P

 

Indeed, its quite the investment. I could also sell it around here for about the same price. It isn't ideal but i've driven the 5speed version of the trucks and they are alright. The trans are pretty meh for me. I'm very picky when it comes to manual trans. I need a pretty simple rig, 4wd is nice but not nessesary would like to use it to do light towing when needed (car dolley short distances) and mostly to haul junk or carry a dirt bike. Nothing extreme pretty average stuff but I'd like to not have to worry about anything and knowing everything is new would ease my mind with something so old.

 

My dad sold his POS looking 84-85 single cab pickup 5speed for about 3500 or so. The market for them right now is pretty low.

 

I do bounce back and forth on it since it is a bit of cash to be spending but I spend 2000-2500 and buy some one else's running rig and end up like the PO of this truck with a blown motor a few weeks later. :angry:

 

Heh, we'll see. ;)

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Yeah , Just have a reputable shop do the machine work. My buddy had his straight-6 300 CI ford rebuilt for about $1,400 dollars ( they pulled , they installed ) I told him we could find a good running used motor for around $200-$375 ish. He kindly brushed me off. Got the truck back from the machine shop , running back to his house 12 miles away. Thing started leaking like a bitch. Front and rear main seals were leaking within 1 month. Sent back for warranty work , they said they fixed but they did not. Cylinders were bored , hones , oversized pistons right ? wrong = uneven compression ( like 10-20 pounds per cylinder variance when I checked it !!! ) Nothing but trouble and a money pit at this point !!! Other shops would not touch it after hearing who worked on it if that tells you something ? ( the rebuilders name was mentioned and the mechanic's attitude changed very quickly )

 

Now the thing leaks , and eats sooo much oil that it spits it all over the grill , and drips it on the street like it is going out of style. My advice to you is this , ask around , and pay a little more for a good machine shop to leap ahead in advanced if you can. I am a little weary on the success rate of rebuilt motors , what has claimed to be done versus what has actually been done ( in his case we found what I think to be machining shavings !!! not good , even blow by evident in his engine. )

 

Portland engine rebuilders did our little datsun engine on the back of our sweeper truck. Thing blew up in 1 month , had full oil , and full anti-freeze in it , as well as good pressure. After that it was warrantied/repaired then this time lasted 6 months and did the same thing ( remember they pressure check for cracks ? ) ! After that it was scraped , and was upgraded with a newer era Nissan motor.

 

I have seen the machine shop my work uses screw up soooooooo many things ( basic at that ) it is not funny. Yes there are good shops , and if you find one spend the extra time/money/distance to get what you want ! Rebuilt engine does not always = good engine if you know what I mean ;) .

 

Good Luck and I am not sure if those will tow cars very well ? ( I am not sure , but I have driven them )

 

DTP

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Yeah , Just have a reputable shop do the machine work. My buddy had his straight-6 300 CI ford rebuilt for about $1,400 dollars ( they pulled , they installed ) I told him we could find a good running used motor for around $200-$375 ish. He kindly brushed me off. Got the truck back from the machine shop , running back to his house 12 miles away. Thing started leaking like a bitch. Front and rear main seals were leaking within 1 month. Sent back for warranty work , they said they fixed but they did not. Cylinders were bored , hones , oversized pistons right ? wrong = uneven compression ( like 10-20 pounds per cylinder variance when I checked it !!! ) Nothing but trouble and a money pit at this point !!! Other shops would not touch it after hearing who worked on it if that tells you something ? ( the rebuilders name was mentioned and the mechanic's attitude changed very quickly )

 

Now the thing leaks , and eats sooo much oil that it spits it all over the grill , and drips it on the street like it is going out of style. My advice to you is this , ask around , and pay a little more for a good machine shop to leap ahead in advanced if you can. I am a little weary on the success rate of rebuilt motors , what has claimed to be done versus what has actually been done ( in his case we found what I think to be machining shavings !!! not good , even blow by evident in his engine. )

 

Portland engine rebuilders did our little datsun engine on the back of our sweeper truck. Thing blew up in 1 month , had full oil , and full anti-freeze in it , as well as good pressure. After that it was warrantied/repaired then this time lasted 6 months and did the same thing ( remember they pressure check for cracks ? ) ! After that it was scraped , and was upgraded with a newer era Nissan motor.

 

I have seen the machine shop my work uses screw up soooooooo many things ( basic at that ) it is not funny. Yes there are good shops , and if you find one spend the extra time/money/distance to get what you want ! Rebuilt engine does not always = good engine if you know what I mean ;) .

 

Good Luck and I am not sure if those will tow cars very well ? ( I am not sure , but I have driven them )

 

DTP

 

The shop that would be doing the work is a shop my family has been dealing with for a very long time. My dad and the owner are very good friends. He would stand by his work and make things right if there was an issue.

 

But you have made me aware of some valid concerns and not to assume the engine will last just because its rebuilt.

 

I believe the 4cyl toyotas do an ok job towing medium loads short distances but nothing like a camper or vehicles up hills. I used my dad's 84 toyota to tow a 510 wagon a couple miles. Did it with out trouble.

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for toyota answers etc try: ultimateyota.com or yotatech.com

 

 

i would rebuild the 22re you have with quality parts (search engnbldr(ebay) / engine builder) he sells great stuff.

 

my mistake was not replacing the 200K mi radiator at the same time. :angry:

 

done right, you should get another 200k+ out of it. :)

 

they are like an L16, but bigger ;)

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for toyota answers etc try: ultimateyota.com or yotatech.com

 

 

i would rebuild the 22re you have with quality parts (search engnbldr(ebay) / engine builder) he sells great stuff.

 

my mistake was not replacing the 200K mi radiator at the same time. :angry:

 

done right, you should get another 200k+ out of it. :)

 

they are like an L16, but bigger ;)

 

Yeah, I'm going to make sure the radiator is flushed for sure. Its always the first thing I do now on older vehicles.

 

My concern is that if it might have been run with the damage inside further damaging some other internals.

 

I'm not super sold on the automatic but with how little i'm going to be driving it. I guess if the trans ever goes out or I feel ambitious I could do a 5speed swap maybe.

 

We'll see how it goes and if it ever gets done. This shop its at the guy is constantly swamped with work but likely for the better as it gives me more time to save up. ;)

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I chatted with the mechanic today and it sounds like he wants to buy it and part it out. He thinks I should look for something a bit cleaner rather than spending a bunch on an automatic truck. It looks pretty clean to me but then again I don't know Toyotas. Overall I would expect to make a small profit on the truck selling it as is.

 

My search for a truck won't end. I have a strong lead on a 5speed front disc 620 thats in good shape and cheap (carburetor problem supposedly) but working on a 620 or early Datsun is more in my skill range anyways.

 

I was ready to move forward with it but it sound like I should start with a slightly better? Oh well.

 

Thanks for all the advice. Its been very helpful. If I can ever get this 620 deal moving I'll put up a thread on that. ;)

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