motavated Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Here is what is up. I went to kragen and bought some front wheel seals for a 1992 nissan pickup 2wd. They gave me masterpro at first and they did not seal at all. What I mean that it didn't grab on no matter how hard I pressed them in. So I went back and got the SKF and the same thing happens. They just don't grab. So I went to the dreaded autozone with the hub and tried there timken brand but the seal was to small. Well, the diameter was correct but no matter how hard I tried to press it in. It would not go! Unless I ruptured the gasket.... So I gave up an ordered them from the dealer. Anyone had a similar problem? In the future when I do my brakes again. Which after market brand did you use/recommend? Thanks! Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 That sucks, definently try the dealer seals. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I don't want to be insulting but you sure you know what your doing? 3 different brand seals and none work? I find that very unlikely, esp with the timkin. That's actually the brand I have chosen to use for years (if not oem)and not once had a prob. Again not trying to insult just saying..... Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I don't want to be insulting but you sure you know what your doing? 3 different brand seals and none work? I find that very unlikely, esp with the timkin. That's actually the brand I have chosen to use for years (if not oem)and not once had a prob. Again not trying to insult just saying..... Well maybe not. But I did take the hub and asked for there assistance both in kragen and autosone. Either they are noobs like me. Or the seals don't work. I have changed seals before but nothing like this kind. Now that I have the OEM ones. THEY HAVE TO WORK!!!! Well I got to figure it out or take it to my cus shop and let them teach me. The ones I usually do with a hammer are like this. But this one is wierd... How do you install these then? If all else fails. I can ask that Nissan mechanic homie to take a look. But just saying... Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I smack them in with a soft mallet. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I smack them in with a soft mallet. I was doing it with a rubber one.. But any harder I would of F't the seal... Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Were you trying to hit it directly? It's hard to not damage it that way and with a rubber mallet your just not getting any force. I use a ball-peen but with a tool thats a round disk welded to a solid rod. That way the force is applied evenly and wont damage it. If you dont have or can't make that then at least a dead blow hammer, rubber mallet is no good for that. I use lube too and if doing it in the cold, warm everything up prior. Hope that helps ya, gl. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Were you trying to hit it directly? I use a ball-peen but with a tool thats a round disk welded to a solid rod. That way the force is applied evenly and you wont damage it. I use lube too and if doing it in the cold, warm everything up prior. I greased it up and stuff. And in this particular seal I used a wooden block and I hit it in the middle. But no matter how hard I tried to put them In, they would not lock. The old ones did fine. Just a couple of taps and bam! Nice and snug. I had to use a flat screw driver to pry them off again... but they are old and I don't want to reuse them... Also what I did was I placed a piece of gum on the hub to see if the seal was going all the way in... yes it was hitting all the way but not locking. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I greased it up and stuff. And in this particular seal I used a wooden block and I hit it in the middle. But no matter how hard I tried to put them In, they would not lock. The old ones did fine. Just a couple of taps and bam! Nice and snug. I had to use a flat screw driver to pry them off again... but they are old and I don't want to reuse them... Also what I did was I placed a piece of gum on the hub to see if the seal was going all the way in... yes it was hitting all the way but not locking. That's strange ! huh , are you sure that the guys at the parts store gave you 2wd seals not 4wd type seals for your Nissan pickup ?( at least one fuck up everytime I order something everywhere now ) Just a thought ! Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Well maybe not. But I did take the hub and asked for there assistance both in kragen and autosone. Either they are noobs like me. Or the seals don't work. I have changed seals before but nothing like this kind. Now that I have the OEM ones. THEY HAVE TO WORK!!!! Well I got to figure it out or take it to my cus shop and let them teach me. The ones I usually do with a hammer are like this. But this one is wierd... How do you install these then? If all else fails. I can ask that Nissan mechanic homie to take a look. But just saying... The picture on the top looks like a rear wheel seal , and the picture on the bottom looks like a front seal ? Can you measure the bore for us or give a part # by chance with brand ? thanks ( I could be wrong , but using rockauto.com as a quick reference ) Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 The picture on the top looks like a rear wheel seal , and the picture on the bottom looks like a front seal ? Can you measure the bore for us or give a part # by chance with brand ? thanks ( I could be wrong , but using rockauto.com as a quick reference ) I dont have the parts anymore since I returned them. One of the seals were used but they accepted back since it clearly did not work and got my money back. Both pics I used from rockauto since I cant post pics from autozone or kragen. The upper green one was what was listed on a 1966 ford mustang. They are metal and they are tapped into the disk hub. I just used that as an example because I have done those constantly and are pretty easy. The bottom one is a picture of the BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523372. When I bought the diffrent brands like timken, skf and parts master they looked just like that. But I think they did not work. The skf and parts master are carried in Kragen and when I returned the seals they tried both of them on and they were loose. I then Went to autozone got the timken one and tried to hammer it in on the spot! I told the sales representative if it seals I buy it!!!! But no good. I was going to try the national brand but instead i bought the nissan ones for 12$ each. Now I dont have the nissan ones yet. I just ordered them and I am asking WTF?!?!?! Quote Link to comment
Dudeman Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I too am kind of a noob but recently did the HB front brake swap on my 620. I also had trouble getting the seals to fit (using the HB seal you have pictured) but my mechanic buddy told me that bolting and torqing down the hub/rotor would seat them down properly. I got the seals on as far as i could, torqued everything down, and it all seems to look and work just fine. I cannot attest to this being the proper method but it worked for me, and now I can lock up the fronts with ease. :o Quote Link to comment
nis720 Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Here's what the seal look like on the extra set of hubs sitting in my garage. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I too am kind of a noob but recently did the HB front brake swap on my 620. I also had trouble getting the seals to fit (using the HB seal you have pictured) but my mechanic buddy told me that bolting and torqing down the hub/rotor would seat them down properly. I got the seals on as far as i could, torqued everything down, and it all seems to look and work just fine. I cannot attest to this being the proper method but it worked for me, and now I can lock up the fronts with ease. :o I was going to do just that but really you cant torque down the bearings to damn much! Every time I go to the yards I can take the nut for the hub with my fingers. They are not tighten to the max. The seals can still be loose man. Check on them just to be sure... I knew I was not the only one. Nis720 yeah that is how they look. I will get them from the dealer right now and compare and take some pics. Sorry for not replaying earlier. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Here's what the seal look like on the extra set of hubs sitting in my garage. ... wait a minute... Is that a drop spindle?!?!? How much! Quote Link to comment
nis720 Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 ... wait a minute... Is that a drop spindle?!?!? How much! Yeah... but they've been machined for 5 lug conversion. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Yeah... but they've been machined for 5 lug conversion. :( Aww... I still might be interested if you have the whole front? I could convert the rear.... Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Today I got the stock seals part # 40232-01G00 and these work fine. So this is a warning.... Timken (autozone) , partspro/skf (kragen) dont work. I tapped these bad boys in with some firm knocks and they graved. SOOOOooooo.... If you find a brand "aftermarket" that works, let us know for future reference. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Glad it all worked out for you. I'm 2nding that they were retards and gave you for the wrong model. That or there is a stocking number discrepancy. Still dont see 3 dif brands being out of tolerance like that. For the price of the dealer part though I'd just go there and say fuck it. You ended up better off imho. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Glad it all worked out for you. I'm 2nding that they were retards and gave you for the wrong model. That or there is a stocking number discrepancy. Still dont see 3 dif brands being out of tolerance like that. For the price of the dealer part though I'd just go there and say fuck it. You ended up better off imho. I love original equopment/dealer parts when I can get them for just a bit more too/same price/ or even better cheaper ! ( nor often but does happen ;)) My buddy's 93 F-150 Clutch Slave Cylinder was $62.00 from FORD DEALERSHIP and everyone else wanted like $85 and up (Knecht's , Carquest, Autozone, Napa , Baxter's, Thrifty's) ? WTF ??? really ??? lol !!! Unless I hear a recall , then I won't touch the part , aftermarket that way :lol: Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Yeah I agree... A while back my transmission mount went out on a Toyota and I asked all the parts stores "how much?". They wanted like 120$ 90$ 97$... I don't know why I went to the dealer and I got that mount for 55$! You cant beat that! I didn't even haggle!!!! FUck!!! Here, cash. GIVE ME NOW! Thanks.... Is this really a Toyota part? "Yes" .... OK! Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Yeah I agree... A while back my transmission mount went out on a Toyota and I asked all the parts stores "how much?". They wanted like 120$ 90$ 97$... I don't know why I went to the dealer and I got that mount for 55$! You cant beat that! I didn't even haggle!!!! FUck!!! Here, cash. GIVE ME NOW! Thanks.... Is this really a Toyota part? "Yes" .... OK! :lol: That's a funny story :rofl: Nice Man ! Glad to hear your hub seals worked out though :cool: , and even better the savings alone on that trans mount for the yota :D :w00t: You sound like me :thumbup: :rofl: Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 You can also use the 720 seals...they simply go inside the bore, not over the end of the hub. The sealing surfaces are a match on the spindle and they're less than half the cost. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 You can also use the 720 seals...they simply go inside the bore, not over the end of the hub. The sealing surfaces are a match on the spindle and they're less than half the cost. Ohhhhhhh!!!!! Wooooooooooow!!!!!! Your the master man!!!! THANKS! Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 The inner/outer bearings in the D21(hardbody) hub were used in a ton of vehicles......AMC, dodge, GMC, Toyota..... and a half dozen more. This one should do the trick. It's off the Schuck's/Kragen/O'Reilly site....... Quote Link to comment
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