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Fix 510 door hinges


datzenmike

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By Mklotz70

 

I finally pulled a hinge off of one of my spare doors. It wasn't really bad at all, but I wanted to do this thread...so it got rebuilt anyway.

 

This is the RH, front, upper hinge.

hinge1.jpg

 

Here it is again after about 3 min in the sandblaster. You can see that it is stamped with RH and FRONT.

hinge2.jpg

 

 

I put it upside down in the vice with a nut to support the area around the pin. I gave it one smack with the hammer and it started to push out.

hinge3.jpg

hinge4.jpg

 

 

I then used a drift punch to push it out far enough to release the knurling.

hinge5.jpg

 

 

You can just make out a small amount of wear on the bushing and the pin. Like it said, it wasn't bad enough to rebuild to begin with. I could have reused the same pin and saved myself some grief, but since this was just an exercise anyway. I figured I'd assume the pin was bad for the sake of this thread.

hinge6.jpg

 

 

You find a lip from the bushing inside. Use the drift to knock it out like you would a wheel bearing. Flip it over and do the other too.

hinge7.jpg

 

 

Old/new comparison of the bushings.

hinge8.jpg

 

 

Tap the new bushings in. TAP...don't pound. And hit it flat...I had the hammer propped on the vise to take the pic. I did both sides at the same time.

hinge9.jpg

 

 

Quick test fit to make sure the shoulders on the bushing weren't too thick

hinge10.jpg

 

 

I put the new pin in to get an idea of fit. The diameter is perfect, but there's a problem with the length.

hinge11.jpg

 

 

If you rebuild the hinge without cutting the pin, you'd better put the bolt in the hole first. The original pin is simply in there to show where the new one would be in relation to the bolt.

hinge12.jpg

 

 

I cut it off and beveled the end on the grinder. I'm pretty sure this is hardened steel, so you probably won't be able to cut it with a hacksaw.

hinge13.jpg

hinge14.jpg

 

 

Now put the pieces together and tap the pin in. I had to refer to the hinge on my car since I sandblasted my alignment marks off(DOH!! read the siggy!) The knurling on the new pin is different than the old, so it bites pretty firm. I wouldn't worry about it coming out until it actually does. These hinges from the '68 didn't show any signs of the pins trying to come out.

hinge15.jpg

 

 

I didn't like the way the top of the pin was, so I cut it off too. I did leave a bit of shoulder. I then hit it with the wire wheel on the grinder.

hinge16.jpg

hinge17.jpg

 

 

If you really want to get carried away, grind them smooth before you put the rebuild kit in.

hinge18.jpg

 

 

I had pulled the lower hinge at the same time. I lined them up to see if the same "kit" would work. It will.

hinge19.jpg

 

 

The drop on this door is actually from the lower hinge being bad.

hinge20.jpg

 

 

I did attempt to do this in the car. You won't be able to do it without chipping the paint. I'm not sure it's even possible to do the bottom hinge in the car. I think I'll rebuild a spare set, then start swapping. I may just rebuild enough to replace them all.

 

 

Start to finish, with all the sandblasting and everything, this didn't take 30min. If I had a handfull of these on the bench and wasn't worried about cleaning them up or anything, this wouldn't take more than 5-6 min each and that's if you cut the pin like I did. Don't have to be too bright to be me!

Gresham, OR

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  • 2 weeks later...

I still cannot get my door aligned properly by myself...

 

Anyone have any tips??? The latch is too low.... The door was more functional with the old hinges.

only thing i know is that its a PITA!!!

 

untorque all the bolts, but keep them tight.

using a block of wood as a wedge for max leverage, maybe a rubber mallet for the final nudge.

tighten bolts.

check alignmnet of the latch. adjust if necessary.

redo, maybe 30 or so times <_<

then there are 3 (4???) more doors... in a wagon!

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You need to adjust the door fit with out the latch in place. Adjust it around until it fits good. The hinges allow you to adjust up and down, in and out, and forward and back, at both hinges. When the fit is close, hold the door closed, and with a dollar bill, check the fit to the weather strip around the door. It should pull out with some drag, and not be so tight to tear the dollar bill. Watch also the front edge of the door to the fender.

When the door is fitting well, reinstall the latch. The latch also has adjustment for up and down, and in and out. Do not use the latch to lift the door into place.

Yes, is it a PITA, but once it is correct, you get the reward of the hard work every time you close the door.

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Since this popped back up, I've started working on a video to put the info back together.  It will just be a slide show with the text added, but that should still be a lot more coherent than how it is now.  I'll post a link back here when it's done.

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