620 wont shift

[Nas]

So today I went for a drive to visit my paw-paw, and found that my 620 was really hesitant about going into gear.

I figured it was cold and needed to warm up or something.

The shifting became easier on down hills, but when I was level again, it was tough to shift.

It was touch and go on the freeway, so I spent a lot of time in neutral, then first and second.

When I would shift to first, it would start to pull forward even with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor.

By the time I got there (short drive), It didnt want to go into gear at all, so I had to park the damn thing.

Reverse was the worst; it would just grind and when I found that sweet spot and got it into gear, same thing; it would just pull backwards with the clutch pedal to the floor.

 

So something needs to be adjusted, but I dont know what or how.

 

Anyone know what this is all about?

 

Oh, then there was a matter of the engine bogging and backfiring, but I'll start another thread about that.

 

Man, its been a tough few weeks for me getting to know my little truck.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

So today I went for a drive to visit my paw-paw, and found that my 620 was really hesitant about going into gear.

I figured it was cold and needed to warm up or something.

The shifting became easier on down hills, but when I was level again, it was tough to shift.

It was touch and go on the freeway, so I spent a lot of time in neutral, then first and second.

When I would shift to first, it would start to pull forward even with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor.

By the time I got there (short drive), It didnt want to go into gear at all, so I had to park the damn thing.

Reverse was the worst; it would just grind and when I found that sweet spot and got it into gear, same thing; it would just pull backwards with the clutch pedal to the floor.

 

So something needs to be adjusted, but I dont know what or how.

 

Anyone know what this is all about?

 

Oh, then there was a matter of the engine bogging and backfiring, but I'll start another thread about that.

 

Man, its been a tough few weeks for me getting to know my little truck.

 

I would try the clutch slave 1st. It's a cheap part and easy to change.

[I'm BLUE]

I would try the clutch slave 1st. It's a cheap part and easy to change.

 

Agreed 100% , but in addition to usually the Clutch Master Cylinder is not far behind ( if one goes the other is close in my experience on all systems like this ) If you have the money , call around different parts store like knecht's , autozone , napa , carquest , baxters , etc.... , and get a new Clutch Master Cylinder as well as Clutch Slave Cylinder for cheap ! Then bench bleed your clutch master cylinder , mount that in your car , connect new clutch slave cylinder and gravity bleed all air out ! DOT-3 Brake Fluid. Hope that helps a bit !

[datzenmike]

Check the fluid level in the clutch master first. If low top it up. You may get your pedal back but if not loosen the bleeder down on the slave. Have someone depress the clutch and hold, tighten the bleeder, release the clutch, open bleeder, depress clutch and hold, close bleeder. Repeat until only clear bubble free fluid squirts out. DO NOT let the master run dry, keep it topped up.

[I'm BLUE]

Check the fluid level in the clutch master first. If low top it up. You may get your pedal back but if not loosen the bleeder down on the slave. Have someone depress the clutch and hold, tighten the bleeder, release the clutch, open bleeder, depress clutch and hold, close bleeder. Repeat until only clear bubble free fluid squirts out. DO NOT let the master run dry, keep it topped up.

 

100% Correct and Good Advice datzenmike :thumbup: ! Just curious if you have had the same experience as I by the time you have to "bleed" and add "brake fluid" to the system it is symptom of the system on it's way out shortly after :unsure:

[ggzilla]

by the time you have to "bleed" and add "brake fluid" to the system it is symptom of the system on it's way out

Agreed. But is is the clutch master or clutch slave that is on its way out? My experience is they don't go bad at the same time.

 

Even if the fluid level is not down, the master could be internally leaking past the seal. This will cause the clutch to not engage, or to engage but start taking off while your foot is still on the pedal.

 

Start taking off while your foot is still on the clutch pedal is a defininte sign something is wrong with one or other of the cylinders. Adjustment won't help when this happens.

[Nas]

Is there anything I can test to make sure which one of the two to replace?

Id rather not replace parts I dont have to, because Im on a ridiculously tight budget at the moment.

 

Thanks for the consideration, guys.

Im listening and learning.

[moparvwfreak]

Is there anything I can test to make sure which one of the two to replace?

Id rather not replace parts I dont have to, because Im on a ridiculously tight budget at the moment.

 

Thanks for the consideration, guys.

Im listening and learning.

 

 

pesonally, i would do em both. under $50 for both master and slave. at least it was last year round this time when i did mine.

[I'm BLUE]

pesonally, i would do em both. under $50 for both master and slave. at least it was last year round this time when i did mine.

 

Moparvwfreak Agreed 100%. My Ford Explorer Clutch Master Cylinder disentegrated , and starved the slave of fluid which in turn burned the seals dry and ground them up on both internally ? WTF ? My old Rx-7 Master wen't bad and I decided to just replace it , but then shortly after I learned the stronger seals on the new Clutch Master Cylinder finished off the old Slave Cylinder within 1.5 month after in the summer time ( I bled it throughly 3 times to make sure but no dice. ) I was on the side of the road every 2 shifts , and that was a pain :rolleyes:

 

ggzilla is 100% correct on what he is saying , but I haven't had the same experiences with these problems ( apparently worse :P hahahaha , and you shouldn't have to replace both , but it is a piece of mind to do so for me :D )

 

If your short on cash , buy 1 small bottle of Dot-3 brake fluid , pump your clutch a few times , go under-neath the car peel back the dust boot and see if it is leaking externally brake fluid/rusty fluid or even just a little seapage ? ( if so replace it with new or rebuild kit to save a few bucks but you should use a brake cylinder hone unless it is aluminum and throw away if pitted ! )if it looks like it is not leaking open up the bleeder valve , let it drip into an old cup/container , while adding new fluid to Clutch Master Cylinder ( do not let it go dry , my rule is 1/3 fluid left then add until full then 1/3 fluid left , etc....

 

Clutch Master Cylinders are a bit of a wild card since they can bleed past , get clogged , or fail internally ( springs , rubber or whatever ) so this you can look for external leakage , but make sure you bleed the system either way ! In my experience it is best to replace as a pair ( think brake calipers , or wheel cylinders , no one ever replaces just one on those systems , so to just play it safe I apply the same principle here now ! )

 

ohhhhh yeah the last time I tried to get my buddy to replace his when it was getting low on fluid on his 1996 ford f-150 we put just a little in and bled it since it felt funny ! about 1 month later I got a call from him on the side of the highway , he was stuck in gear pulled it out and could not get back in , checked the master first and it was bone dry ! slave puked out fluid quickly in between and ruined the master at the same time (pumping dry) Just my experience , replace both for piece of mind :D

 

My Advice sell your goodies to keep your truck running for work , grocery's , and play :D

[Nas]

Thanks guys.

Im going to go to school on your experiences and just do them both at the same time.