JoeCool Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 RockAuto, $286 - about $100 less than a Weber. WRONG! That is a remanufactured unit. NOT NEW. Price a NEW Shitachi. I have, well over $500. No thanks! Therefore it is not less than a Weber. It is in fact more, for LESS performance and fuel mileage. Quote Link to comment
Fat510 Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 "I've never had an overrated Weber 32/36 run as good as a rebuilt Hitachi." You must have never tuned a Weber or adjusted timing once you put it on or you installed it improperly. My Hitachi was rebuilt (not by me but an old Datsun mechanic), and it ran like crap, especially when cold OR hot! Flooding at lights, backfired, wouldn't stay running in cold, Idled up and down, dieseled EVERY time I turned the truck off, etc. My Weber runs so smoothly, I swear it runs like a modern computer controlled fuel injected vehicle... no matter what the weather, makes more power and low end torque, AND gets better fuel mileage. Shitachi carbs suck! Not to mention they are a pain to tune and get parts for. Weber is so much easier to tune and rebuild AND parts are not only easy to find, but cheaper as well. Hitachi has a bad reputation because they deserve it. And these comments about somehow the CFM being more on the stock carb is insanity! And it sure as hell is not 230 or 270 CFM. The stock Hitachi is larger than that! It is minimum of 300, maximum of 330. With the Outlaw 38 being 380CFM. That is like going to the racetrack and convincing people to switch back to the factory (whatever) instead of the big CFM Holley carbs they are running! And a Weber does not "run rich" either. Forget California's weirdness, but they still have to be FEDERAL emissions compliant. But if you TRIED to get a Hitachi to run rich to beat the Weber, it would just run awful because that is not what it is designed to do. It is designed to be compliant for emission and fuel requirements for whatever year the vehicle was made, plus perform decent enough to keep the customers happy. It is not a designated performance carb like the Weber. With that being said, I think Mike hit the nail on the head about replacing something old and worn out with something new. Mine was worn out to the point of no rebuilding was going to help. I went with an old junkyard (Genuine and old school) Weber and rebuilt it, jetted and tuned it to what I wanted so far as performance with the exhaust and air intake modifications I was making. But I am not running the silly stacked adapter plates but rather a 1.5" custom spacer from Trans Dapt. I am also not running the tiny Weber air filter, I am running a 10" round air cleaner to take advantage of the stock hood vents. I also ported and polished the intake manifold. All that work and extra parts and I still came out a lot cheaper than the kit from Redline I did my research and homework. I had even considered a Holley (not 5200) two barrel and custom intake manifold, yes it can be done! Even a Holley four barrel can be done. The L and Z series four cylinder four bangers have roots in circle track racing so nothing is impossible, if you have the money and resources. Heck, Ford's 2.3 Pinto motors and Toyota's 22RE is still being used. With all that being said, I "fixed" my Shitachi carb like the OP said... Put on the Weber 32/36, then played golf with the Hitachi using a sledgehammer as a driver! To me that is the ONLY way to properly fix one! Junk it and replace it with a Weber or Mikuni. Besides, the Weber looks 100% better! my stock hitachi will run circles around a my brand new weber 2 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Not overruled. Because JoeCool says the 32/36 flows more air than what the Weber book says. Quote Link to comment
JoeCool Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Either of you two know-it-alls wanna put your money where your mouth is and race? No forget that... Dyno run? I will bet my truck that a Weber makes more power and torque than any damn rebuilt Hitachi. No cheating either, Hitachi came with emissions crap, it keeps it along with all other stock power robbers! And my truck isn't included in the dyno because it is modified beyond factory. Apples compared to apples. Otherwise STOCK vehicles with and without Weber carbs, same engines, same years. Lets get some real proof. What books are you reading GG? My information is from Weber and multiple sources. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 "I've never had an overrated Weber 32/36 run as good as a rebuilt Hitachi." You must have never tuned a Weber or adjusted timing once you put it on or you installed it improperly. My Hitachi was rebuilt (not by me but an old Datsun mechanic), and it ran like crap, especially when cold OR hot! Flooding at lights, backfired, wouldn't stay running in cold, Idled up and down, dieseled EVERY time I turned the truck off, etc. My Weber runs so smoothly, I swear it runs like a modern computer controlled fuel injected vehicle... no matter what the weather, makes more power and low end torque, AND gets better fuel mileage. Shitachi carbs suck! Not to mention they are a pain to tune and get parts for. Weber is so much easier to tune and rebuild AND parts are not only easy to find, but cheaper as well. Hitachi has a bad reputation because they deserve it. And these comments about somehow the CFM being more on the stock carb is insanity! And it sure as hell is not 230 or 270 CFM. The stock Hitachi is larger than that! It is minimum of 300, maximum of 330. With the Outlaw 38 being 380CFM. That is like going to the racetrack and convincing people to switch back to the factory (whatever) instead of the big CFM Holley carbs they are running! And a Weber does not "run rich" either. Forget California's weirdness, but they still have to be FEDERAL emissions compliant. But if you TRIED to get a Hitachi to run rich to beat the Weber, it would just run awful because that is not what it is designed to do. It is designed to be compliant for emission and fuel requirements for whatever year the vehicle was made, plus perform decent enough to keep the customers happy. It is not a designated performance carb like the Weber. With that being said, I think Mike hit the nail on the head about replacing something old and worn out with something new. Mine was worn out to the point of no rebuilding was going to help. I went with an old junkyard (Genuine and old school) Weber and rebuilt it, jetted and tuned it to what I wanted so far as performance with the exhaust and air intake modifications I was making. But I am not running the silly stacked adapter plates but rather a 1.5" custom spacer from Trans Dapt. I am also not running the tiny Weber air filter, I am running a 10" round air cleaner to take advantage of the stock hood vents. I also ported and polished the intake manifold. All that work and extra parts and I still came out a lot cheaper than the kit from Redline I did my research and homework. I had even considered a Holley (not 5200) two barrel and custom intake manifold, yes it can be done! Even a Holley four barrel can be done. The L and Z series four cylinder four bangers have roots in circle track racing so nothing is impossible, if you have the money and resources. Heck, Ford's 2.3 Pinto motors and Toyota's 22RE is still being used. With all that being said, I "fixed" my Shitachi carb like the OP said... Put on the Weber 32/36, then played golf with the Hitachi using a sledgehammer as a driver! To me that is the ONLY way to properly fix one! Junk it and replace it with a Weber or Mikuni. Besides, the Weber looks 100% better! Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Either of you two know-it-alls wanna put your money where your mouth is and race? No forget that... Dyno run? I will bet my truck that a Weber makes more power and torque than any damn rebuilt Hitachi. No cheating either, Hitachi came with emissions crap, it keeps it along with all other stock power robbers! And my truck isn't included in the dyno because it is modified beyond factory. Apples compared to apples. Otherwise STOCK vehicles with and without Weber carbs, same engines, same years. Lets get some real proof. What books are you reading GG? My information is from Weber and multiple sources. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 32/36 will make more power because its not jetted super lean like the DCH340. 32/36 is jetted richer from the box. Which shouldn't be taken to mean "too rich". Maximum power is made with rich mixture somewhere between 12:1 to 13:1. The Hitachi is leaner for fuel economy (& cat compatibility on later versions). But like any carb it can be re-jetted. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Anyway getting back on topic "how to fix stock Hitachi carb" -- unblocking the idle passage will fix the won't-idle-below-1600-rpm problem 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 I believe the 32/34 is smog legal in Kalifornia. If no fuel to the idle maybe the idle cut solenoid????????? Quote Link to comment
JoeCool Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 OH WAIT! After seeing these two laughing posts it all makes sense now. We were talking about completely different "Hitachis!" My bad. I thought we were talking about carburetors. No wonder your "Hitachis" gave you such pleasure! 1 Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Either of you two know-it-alls wanna put your money where your mouth is and race? No forget that... Dyno run? I will bet my truck that a Weber makes more power and torque than any damn rebuilt Hitachi. No cheating either, Hitachi came with emissions crap, it keeps it along with all other stock power robbers! And my truck isn't included in the dyno because it is modified beyond factory. Apples compared to apples. Otherwise STOCK vehicles with and without Weber carbs, same engines, same years. Lets get some real proof. What books are you reading GG? My information is from Weber and multiple sources. How about you try to pass california smog requirements and who ever gets the closest wins? Or how about you all shut up about weber because I don't have that option. 1 Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 I called bar and they said it has to be original. What the hell is this shit? I know I've cleaned the head and intake 3 times now but this black sticky shit keeps coming back. It was in the bcdd valve and mad it stick to the point I had to beat it out. I looked online and people said it was oil coming out of the valve guides (I never did the head rebiuld) but it wouldn't make sense for it to be in the bcdd valve And this happened when carb cleaner got to it. It leaked out of the screw. I ordered a remanufactured carb yesterday with a lifetime warrenty. 1 Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 OH WAIT! After seeing these two laughing posts it all makes sense now. We were talking about completely different "Hitachis!" My bad. I thought we were talking about carburetors. No wonder your "Hitachis" gave you such pleasure! We ARE talking about carburetors, but true to nature, you've once again tried (and failed) to derail a thread into a discussion of vibrators and chipped teeth. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 I called bar and they said it has to be original. What the hell is this shit? I know I've cleaned the head and intake 3 times now but this black sticky shit keeps coming back. It was in the bcdd valve and mad it stick to the point I had to beat it out. I looked online and people said it was oil coming out of the valve guides (I never did the head rebiuld) but it wouldn't make sense for it to be in the bcdd valve The black shit is just carbon from the EGR recycling the exhaust back into intake,,,,,,,,,,,, WHAT YOU SHOULD BE WORRIED ABOUT IS ......... That intake gasket looks old amd crusty as hell ,, if that ain't causing some kind of vacuum leak i will eat this keyboard.. Get a new one and change that bitch outta there. they are cheap insurance 2 Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 I think a bigger vacuum leak would be caused by the intake manifold and carburetor not being attached to the engine... 2 Quote Link to comment
maltese Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 I think a bigger vacuum leak would be caused by the intake manifold and carburetor not being attached to the engine... Me thinks there is no vacuum, BECAUSE the intake manifold and carburetor are not attached to the engine... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 I called bar and they said it has to be original. What the hell is this shit? I know I've cleaned the head and intake 3 times now but this black sticky shit keeps coming back. It was in the bcdd valve and mad it stick to the point I had to beat it out. I looked online and people said it was oil coming out of the valve guides (I never did the head rebiuld) but it wouldn't make sense for it to be in the bcdd valve And this happened when carb cleaner got to it. It leaked out of the screw. I ordered a remanufactured carb yesterday with a lifetime warrenty. Oil from the intake valve guides would get sucked into the engine not back out the ports. Didn't you say earlier you were running rich? The BCDD is now fucked. Did you run seafoam through this carb? 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Can you say "backfire"? Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 I just put that gasket on. Less then 200 miles ago. No just carb cleaner mike. I don't know when the new carb is coming. I put the engine back together for now just so I can get around town. Runs like shit since that fuck at the smog shop touched it. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Don't know if you're making a joke or not. But Ya I soaked the thing and used about 5 cans of cleaner. I don't know where the leak would be. It won't run without fuel coming out of the primary. I tried a trick some chevy guy tought me of reving the engine up to 4k then suffocating it with a rag to clean out anything and it didn't do anything Maybe some cleaner left in carb when put together. looks melted. So I know this thread is 5 years old but it seems fitting to ask here. What wears out on a hitichi? I've been having the same problem with mine for the past year that it won't send any fuel through the idel circuit. I hear the anti dieseling solenoid open and close, rebiult the thing 2 times, cleaned every hole, messed with the mixture screw, and the b.c.d.d. (I think) valve setting and it still won't idle lower then 1600. It's on an l20b that sat for years. I've replaced all the vacuum lines and I know there are no leaks. I can't switch to a weber because I live in California and my 510 is a 78 so it gets smoged. Any ideas on what it could be? And where I can get a new old stock? I believe the 32/34 is smog legal in Kalifornia. Check this out. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 WAS legal. They don't sell bar versions any more. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Find an old one? Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Nope in order to change the carb I have to go to a referee at BAR and they have to approve it. Since it is now illigal it won't be approved and means it will fail smog just from being looked at. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I'm sure I have a spare BCDD lying around if you end up needing one. Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Micro that would be awesome. Just tell me if you have it and how much. Just got the new carb tonight after 3 weeks of waiting. When I noticed the bcdd isn't like the one in my car. The kind you adjust with a screw driver. The new one has a vacuum line connection. I don't know where that would go to. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
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