change your headgasket and not upset the timing

[J.C_620]

first set your engine on top dead center( i didnt take a pic of this)

 

second drain the coolant from the radiator

 

third take off the cam cover ( if you done step two correctly the #1 intake lobe on the camshaft will be pointing straight up)

 

fourth remove the intake and exhaust manifolds and all hoses and wires attached to the head

 

fifth if you have a mechanical fuel pump remove it now. remove the fuel pump ecentric and cam bolt being carefull not to allow the cam sprocket to come off ( again no pic of this step)

 

now take your timing chain holding tool ( if you do not have one of these i suggest buying one but you can fashion one out of wood)

 

stick it down in the middle of the chain and push it untill it pushes the tensioner in making sure to leave your string were you can pull it back out later

 

loosen head bolts starting from the ends working towards the center

 

remove head (if step one was done correctly #1 and #4 pistons will be up) clean top of block

 

get your new head gasket and spray a light coat of copper coat allow a few mins to tack flip over and repete best to use 2 or three coats more if ya wanna

 

while your copper tacks clean the bottom of the head and top of the block if you have not done that yet

 

put gasket on top of block make sure you have your alingnment dowels in place place head on top of block torque your head bolts to spec in 3 increments starting from the center working towards the ends in a staggered pattern

 

offer the cam gear up to the camshaft makeing sure the hole fits over the pin and the gear is fully seated remove the chain holding tool reinstall the cam bolt with fuel pump ecentric

 

then reinstall everything just as you removed it. fill with coolant

if everything goes as planed it should fire right up and only take 2 or 3 hours start to finish

 

i hope i didnt forget anything feel free to add anything i forgot

Edited December 26, 2009 by datzenmike

[yello620]

So who makes than chain holding tool? I have never seem one for sale before.

[jefe de jefes]

cool man.

Thanks for sharing.

[J.C_620]

So who makes than chain holding tool? I have never seem one for sale before.

 

i cant remember were i got that from its pretty old but i think i got it off the snap on tool truck but i may have gotten it from mac tools not sure i will look into it

[Skib]

ya know the tensioner bit is the manual right?

[J.C_620]

ya know the tensioner bit is the manual right?

 

nope i didnt i guess it would help if i have ever owned or read a manual oh well my bad just wanted to do a how to beings i bent a valve and all the questions here lately about head gaskets

[Skib]

this whole thread are the same steps in every datsun manual with an L, from the FSM to the Chiltons ect.

 

because if you dont use a tensioner tool it will pop out of the holder and then you have to drop the oil pan and pull the front cover just to retrieve it

[bad69boy]

If your tensioner goes in the pan, it means you dont know what you're doing. This guy has done Datsuns long enough that he doesn't need a stupid book, seems to me. He is telling you the main steps to installing.... If not the mains, he would have told you the torque specs on every bolt, told you to go buy new gaskets, blah, blah, blah. He is giving his own opinion and his own steps to do this as a shadetree mechanic. Crazy thing, he is an Auto Technician at a local garage, he could have done it alot easier and not have to do it in 30 degree weather outside, but he has love for his truck and knows how..... he bleeds RAT blood. Don't give him grief that he left out a step on the tensioner. Most people would have a damn towel stuffed in or layed over the oil pan anyway, stupidity on your part it sounds. Thanks and I am back out. Now, how about a real vehicle, wanna work on a Mitz?

[datzenmike]

?

[Skib]

If your tensioner goes in the pan, it means you dont know what you're doing.

agreed, or you didnt put the tensioner in far enough, it happens.

 

He is telling you the main steps to installing....

I know he is

 

He is giving his own opinion and his own steps to do this as a shadetree mechanic.

There the exact same steps that are in any L series book.

 

Don't give him grief that he left out a step on the tensioner.

he didnt.....

 

Most people would have a damn towel stuffed in or layed over the oil pan anyway, stupidity on your part it sounds.

most people use a piece of wood to hold the tensioner, like the nissan manual suggests.who stuffs a towel in there oil pan? thats a terrible idea.

 

you seem to think Im complaining because I dropped a tensioner doing this?

 

 

did you actually read any of these posts?

or did you read a line from each and then decide to spout off?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(dr_datsunstein: Im not knockin ya, its a good thorough write up. Just pointing out that they are the same steps from the manual)

Edited December 27, 2009 by Skib

[banzai510(hainz)]

Glad he showed photos of it . wheither in a book or not. Photos help alot.

 

also if you go to Schucks,parts america or Orileys the tensioner tool is in there. just go thru the steps and there should be a listing for it 499 or soemthing like that.

 

enter this # 648831

or this link

http://www.kragen.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PBI&MfrPartNumber=648831&CategoryCode=3491

[Skib]

Glad he showed photos of it . wheither in a book or not. Photos help alot.

 

oh agreed, like I said, Im not knocking it just pointing it out (bad69boy seems to have jumped to his guns without actually reading the thread), and photos are a big help to some people.

 

 

enter this # 648831

or this link

http://www.kragen.com/ProductDetail....egoryCode=3491

 

neat :w00t:

[bad69boy]

"this whole thread are the same steps in every datsun manual with an L, from the FSM to the Chiltons ect.

 

because if you dont use a tensioner tool it will pop out of the holder and then you have to drop the oil pan and pull the front cover just to retrieve it"

 

DOES THIS SOUND LIKE YOU'RE WHINING???????????? YEAH, IT DOES. NOT THAT I GIVE TWO SHITS BUT, HOW IS IT STUPID TO STUFF A TOWEL IN THE PAN? I SAID LAY OR STUFF. WHO WOULDN'T PUT SOMETHING OVER THE PAN? DIRT AND SHIT FALLS IN, ANTIFREEZE LEAKS IN. I DO THIS FOR A LIVING DIP SHIT. I KNOW WHAT I DO, MAYBE YOU SHOULD GET SOME HANDS ON AND YOU WON'T HAVE TO READ A MANUAL.

[Skib]

DOES THIS SOUND LIKE YOU'RE WHINING???????????? YEAH, IT DOES. NOT THAT I GIVE TWO SHITS BUT, HOW IS IT STUPID TO STUFF A TOWEL IN THE PAN? I SAID LAY OR STUFF. WHO WOULDN'T PUT SOMETHING OVER THE PAN? DIRT AND SHIT FALLS IN, ANTIFREEZE LEAKS IN. I DO THIS FOR A LIVING DIP SHIT. I KNOW WHAT I DO, MAYBE YOU SHOULD GET SOME HANDS ON AND YOU WON'T HAVE TO READ A MANUAL.

 

hahahahahahaha someone hasn't had there coffee yet.

 

 

 

those are two facts mind you, not a complaint.

L's are something I know quite well thanksmuch

Edited December 27, 2009 by Skib

[datzenmike]

If your tensioner goes in the pan, it means you dont know what you're doing. This guy has done Datsuns long enough that he doesn't need a stupid book, seems to me. He is telling you the main steps to installing.... If not the mains, he would have told you the torque specs on every bolt, told you to go buy new gaskets, blah, blah, blah. He is giving his own opinion and his own steps to do this as a shadetree mechanic. Crazy thing, he is an Auto Technician at a local garage, he could have done it alot easier and not have to do it in 30 degree weather outside, but he has love for his truck and knows how..... he bleeds RAT blood. Don't give him grief that he left out a step on the tensioner. Most people would have a damn towel stuffed in or layed over the oil pan anyway, stupidity on your part it sounds. Thanks and I am back out. Now, how about a real vehicle, wanna work on a Mitz?

 

?

 

DOES THIS SOUND LIKE YOU'RE WHINING???????????? YEAH, IT DOES. NOT THAT I GIVE TWO SHITS BUT, HOW IS IT STUPID TO STUFF A TOWEL IN THE PAN? I SAID LAY OR STUFF. WHO WOULDN'T PUT SOMETHING OVER THE PAN? DIRT AND SHIT FALLS IN, ANTIFREEZE LEAKS IN. I DO THIS FOR A LIVING DIP SHIT. I KNOW WHAT I DO, MAYBE YOU SHOULD GET SOME HANDS ON AND YOU WON'T HAVE TO READ A MANUAL.

 

 

Oh noooooooo................... :lol:

Edited December 27, 2009 by datzenmike

[I'm BLUE]

dr_datsunstein , good write-up and this gives a lot of people that have not done this kind of work before more confidence since a fellow rat is letting them soak it in nice and slow with the pictures in steps :thumbup: THANKYOU ! Ya can't beat copper coat :cool:

 

[datzenmike]

Factory doesn't use or recommend gasket dressings and I don't use them. If block and head are smooth and level they serve no purpose other than to make the head difficult to remove later. Now if you had a super high compression or turbo motor with solid copper h/g you could, but O ringing might be better if you expect to remove the head. Just an opinion.

[Bears510]

dr_datsunstein , good write-up and this gives a lot of people that have not done this kind of work before more confidence since a fellow rat is letting them soak it in nice and slow with the pictures in steps :thumbup: THANKYOU ! Ya can't beat copper coat :cool:

 

Yes, Thank you and the pictures definitely help!!! As for the copper coat, just have a question on that. The product suggests using it on any high temp surface such as carb mount, and intake and exhaust gaskets. Anybody have any recommendations or feedback on the use on those gaskets? Or should it basicly be used on all gaskets on the engine...

THANKS!

[Bears510]

Factory doesn't use or recommend gasket dressings and I don't use them. If block and head are smooth and level they serve no purpose other than to make the head difficult to remove later. Now if you had a super high compression or turbo motor with solid copper h/g you could, but O ringing might be better if you expect to remove the head. Just an opinion.

 

 

well, that answers that I guess!! LOL!!!

[izzo]

So who makes than chain holding tool? I have never seem one for sale before.

 

they are available at schucks and such, autozone etc. They are just a generic piece. Someone gave me a link in another thread at one point. Can't find it now tho

 

**edit, Sorry, guess Hainz already posted a link :lol:

[I'm BLUE]

Factory doesn't use or recommend gasket dressings and I don't use them. If block and head are smooth and level they serve no purpose other than to make the head difficult to remove later. Now if you had a super high compression or turbo motor with solid copper h/g you could, but O ringing might be better if you expect to remove the head. Just an opinion.

 

Agreed , but datsun factory isn't around anymore or do you know something I don't :lol: Yes , the stuff can be difficult to get off , but when your running an all cast-iron Built 351 Windsor ( made in Canada ! ) BUILT HIGH COMPRESSION :cool: V-8 Engine , it is hard to find a good set-up with head gaskets especially (lead foot :lol: ) From the machining there are now new hotspots in the engine ( lots of work done to the motor) , so I need the stuff for this particular engine ( had it apart , and tried very nice head gaskets a few times , copper coat saved my bacon hands down :fu: )

 

But your absolutely right datzenmike , if you don't need it or unfamiliar with it , the mating surfaces are not nicked or scratched then why burden yourself with a project of getting it off later ( good point for the average tinker ) ? A good brand of head gasket is going to be anyone's best bet especially for daily drivers ! , but I am not going to hassle someone if they want to have a little extra protection :cool: just my 2 cents !

[I'm BLUE]

 

Oh noooooooo................... :lol:

 

That reminds me of my niece :lol::lol::lol:

[DanielC]

In my recollection, the factory does not recommend additional gasket sealers on the factory gaskets.

On aftermarket gaskets, you might need a sealer of some kind. follow gasket makers recommendations.

[bad69boy]

You people knock the craziest stuff. Now you are knocking copper coat. Funny, I bet alot of you guys put silicone on paper gaskets. GUESS WHAT??? You don't have to. Isn't it about personal preference anyway??? I have used Indian Head Gasket Shellac on head gaskets, I have used Copper Coat on head gaskets, I have used spray glue on paper gaskets, I have used silicone on paper gaskets...... I have one bigger than that, I have used silicone on seals and I have used gasket shellac on seals!!!!!! WHOA, can you believe it??? And I am still a mechanic today... "F'in A". GROW UP, use what you want, use cardboard if you want. I have.

[DISLEXICDIME]

i used copper coat on my built l18 it just sucks if you ever have to clean it off !lol

 

why is there even a thread for not upsetting the tension er! This is basic common knowledge.