My island '74 710

[fisch]

 

 

 

 

Oh yeah baby! Volvo 1800ES!!! I wanted one sooooooooooo damn bad before getting into Datsuns. I surfed the net for them every day!

 

Great score BTW! Wish I could stumble on 2 59's to pick apart!!!

[Charlie69]

Can anyone ID this car?

 

 

Studebaker.....

 

Looks similar to a 1950 Studebaker I had in the 70's

 

[denveratsun]

Looks similar to a 1950 Studebaker I had in the 70's

 

 

1950 and 51 were called "bullet nose" Studebakers for the very clear reason... :blink:

 

1952 brought a new and unimproved slope, without the bullet.

 

My dad has a 1951 business coupe (in pic below :D )and a 1948 Starlight (the wrap around window action in the back)

 

[datzenmike]

Yesterday I set myself the goal of fixing the door lock(s). Removed the arm rest, handle and wind up and the panel popped off just like that. Gotta love the shape this is in, no plastic snapping off or mushy particle board. The key lock is right there, the easiest to get at I have ever seen. Got it out and lubed and bingo the key now locks it up.

 

Today I worked on the dreaded ignition switch. The previous owner had to drill out the bolts and disassemble the ignition because it came without a key. All you could do was use a screw driver in the switch part to start it. Let me tell you it's no fun stalling in traffic and having to fumble a screw driver into it to get it started.

 

I found a complete steering column and rather than drill the snap off bolts out and use new ones or find replacement bolts with real heads on them I came up with a neat idea. Probably faster too and allows you to reuse the old ones. The ignition switch is normally bolted on and the bolts are so constructed that there is a narrowing of the metal below the bolt head so that once tight you keep turning and the head snaps off. This makes it more difficult for a thief to remove. I got my hack saw and cut across the bolt head deep enough to get a screw driver in the slot and out they came!

 

 

 

 

 

I just re-used the old ones to assemble it. Now I have a '77 ignition switch. I noticed that the old switch would lock the column as soon as it is placed in the LOCK position. The 'new' one does not set the lock mechanism until the key is removed. Interesting.

.

[Skib]

neat :lol:

[datzenmike]

 

 

Well got plates and insurance yesterday and spent all afternoon bleeding the brakes. Backs are now good but fronts must still have air. Pedal is mushy and the brake light comes on so I can assume the calipers aren't seized or the the pressure would build and the light wouldn't come on.

 

Today I was working on converting my KA 80 amp alt. to put on. The 200sx IR alt I put on doesn't charge so I have been agonizing over whether I screwed up the two jumper wires or not. Yeah the pulley does not line up. I can fix but I want to drive NOW!! I had 6-8 720 alts and I threw them out except one I missed, yay! It fits perfect and 60 amp (Canadian) Fired up...... AND THE LIGHT IS.... OUT!!! Went and got gas but not safe to drive with only rear brakes so parked but I am happy for now.

[Skib]

sweet! :lol: Canby or bust!

[Jason]

 

 

Well got plates and insurance yesterday and spent all afternoon bleeding the brakes. Backs are now good but fronts must still have air. Pedal is mushy and the brake light comes on so I can assume the calipers aren't seized or the the pressure would build and the light wouldn't come on.

 

Today I was working on converting my KA 80 amp alt. to put on. The 200sx IR alt I put on doesn't charge so I have been agonizing over whether I screwed up the two jumper wires or not. Yeah the pulley does not line up. I can fix but I want to drive NOW!! I had 6-8 720 alts and I threw them out except one I missed, yay! It fits perfect and 60 amp (Canadian) Fired up...... AND THE LIGHT IS.... OUT!!! Went and got gas but not safe to drive with only rear brakes so parked but I am happy for now.

 

That's AWESOME Mike!

[datzenmike]

It sure is! 12.68 volts is now 14.78 running. Dragging the rear wheels to a stop is crap. Hard to believe the fronts do so much but they do. I scooped a second 710 master and I found another from a 200sx or 280z? in my shed, ( has the outlets facing inward to clear the strut tower) so I'll get that sucker working. I did bleed the fronts and the fluid was black. I flushed out with dot 3 and then switched to dot 4. No air bubbles so maybe the master is totaled from sitting.

[bonvo]

i had the same problem you did mike with the fronts not wanting to work it turned out that the piston in my master was sticking after i released the pedal try taping the back of the master lightly with a hammer every time the pedal is let up

[Jason]

Mike, I like the 7/8" master with the bleeders facing out to the fender, it gives extra clearance for things like air cleaners on carbs etc ... Mind, the stock PL510 one is only a 3/4" so it's a worthwhile upgrade for us older car guys ....

[datzenmike]

Bonvo I'll check that! But the brake light does come on sometimes when I stab the brake. I really suspect air ora failed m/c.

 

Jason IIRCI don't think there's room on the 710-, it's tight. I'll check. I have 6-7 masters from 720s, a280z, 620 (disc) and at least 2 200sx (S110) oh and one S12 turbo just taking up space.

[bonvo]

Bonvo I'll check that! But the brake light does come on sometimes when I stab the brake. I really suspect air ora failed m/c.

 

 

my light didnt come on but thats because i had it disabled :P

 

but if the piston is stuck its not bleeding all the air out so when it unsticks theres air in the lines its a bitch it took me a few days to figure out thats what was happening

[datzenmike]

Well I bled both fronts and fluid really pops out in a strong stream, no air. I can't get any thing to come out the bleeders on the master wtf?... Brake light still comes on at bottom of travel.

 

Spent the PM cleaning up a 7/8" master and larger booster from an S-110. I'm hoping the booster will fit against the firewall, think it will. This is 1/8" larger bore and larger booster so effort will be reduced but shouldn't throw the braking off front to back.

[athoose]

Awesome 710! Not sure about the back looking good sans bumper ... but the front looks just fine.

[datzenmike]

The park bench bumpers are hideous looking. I have a loose line on a set of early hard top chrome bumpers. Can't worry about looks right now. Nneed to get it rockin' for Canby.

[datzenmike]

Yesterday, pulled the booster and m/c off. There was evidence that the rear of the m/c had leaked brake fluid into the booster and dried to white crystals. The rear is for the front discs where I think the problem is. I tried to fit the '80 200sx booster but... it does not clear the throttle linkage which is too bad. Perhaps I will switch to a cable assy at a later date which will give me several inches clearance. Oh well worth a look.

 

No reason why I can't use the 200sx m/c. It's 1/8" larger so I will expect a firmer pedal. The cost so far today is $4 for a one foot length of brake line from the m/c to the pressure differential switch. Got it on after work and will re-bleed the brakes tomorrow and hope for the best. At worst if this does not work I'll get a re-build kit for it. Oh yeah I swapped the spare '77 booster I have into it. It was nice and dry.

[datzenmike]

WOOT! Bled the fronts and they work! They were stiff pedal at first and the engine ran like shit until I noticed the vacuum booster line wasn't on :blush:... all good now. Too bad I can't compare to the stock 3/4 (12/16") master. The new one is 7/8" (14/16") so 1/8" larger. You hit the brakes and the front slams down hard, good enough for me. As before, the motor has a huge baff just off idle which is a bitch with an automatic. Needs the accelerator pump fixed/adjusted. I can almost guarentee it's squirting air only when you step on it. The temp gauge reads almost to the running range or less so maybe the thermostat is 'frozen' . I ordered 3-4 thermostat gaskets and will change this weekend. Speedometer isn't working either. I had it disconnected to remove the instrument pannel and have hooked it up but no go so far.

[INDY510]

I have my guage cluster out right now,,, trying to hook up the temp guage

 

 

Let me know if you want some pics of the speedo,,, or any part of the dash......... it is a pain to get the guage cluster out,,, and I'm not going to put it back together until the wiring is done..... which might be a few years .. :lol:

 

 

I also have a speedo cable,,, but my car was a 4spd not automatic

[bonvo]

good to hear she stops now mike now throw them su's on it that should fix the accel pump :D as for speedo did it work before you disconnected the cable? im thinkin a broken cable the one in my "new" 610 was broken about half way down luckily the one on the yellow car was unharmed so i just ran with that one

[datzenmike]

Took two tries to tighten it up properly, (still didn't work for two miles home) but next time I drove it, it was fine... maybe reversing into driveway helped seat the inner cable into the head? shrug.:confused: Took the accelerator pump out (and in and out about 8 times) To find it must have been a stuck open second ball valve inside the carb near the squirter outlet. It's way way better now. Thanks guys

 

Waxed it to get the green mold off... the paint is now shiny where the mold used to be and dull everywhere else. Seriously needs to be re-painted one day. I only waxed it to make myself feel good for getting the brakes and carb sorted out.

[bonvo]

try buffing it all out you never know whow it will polish up

[datzenmike]

It's been sitting since 2002 when that owner passed. Has green mold all over it and probably for years. A front fender and grill has been replaced and maybe some minor body work on the back driver's side because it's been sprayed and then clear coated. wtf? It's all peeling off (natch) The rest may have been painted but can't find any overspray so maybe just the front fender and near the grill. Looks like shit but I don't friggin' care, it's all mine and that's what counts. The body is sound underneath and I can slowly work on the paint bit by bit and then paint it all at once.

 

Looks like this now:

 

[Skib]

It's been sitting since 2002 when that owner passed. Has green mold all over it and probably for years. A front fender and grill has been replaced and maybe some minor body work on the back driver's side because it's been sprayed and then clear coated. wtf? It's all peeling off (natch) The rest may have been painted but can't find any overspray so maybe just the front fender and near the grill. Looks like shit but I don't friggin' care, it's all mine and that's what counts. The body is sound underneath and I can slowly work on the paint bit by bit and then paint it all at once.

 

 

Iv got plenty of rattle can :lol: well paint it at Canby haha

[datzenmike]

Iv always bombed trains and things like decaying warehouses ect. believe it or not there is a code of conduct.

 

Bomb my Datsun, skib!!!!

 

 

Speaking of bombing. I was bombing around today in the 710. I'm used to the heavy 620. This thing flies for a autotragic! 4:11 gears too so it hums on the highway. I thought the shifts would be mushy but (for me) they were snappy.