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My island '74 710


datzenmike

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I'm installing an EI dizzy and high volume oil pump on my 710's L18. Why not?... the parts are laying all around here and might as well be used.

 

Clean dizzy and remove the pedestal.

 

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The module has a space behind it for air to circulate. A perfect place for spider nests and cocoons.

 

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Matchbox with L118 dedestal.

 

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Points dizzy out and drive spindle held so it won't fall out when the oil pump is removed. Hokey but worked.

 

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Points coil and ballast removed.

 

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I thought EI coils were smaller??? Some might be but this one (left side) from a '78 remote igniter sure looks the same as the points coil it replaces...

 

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Coil installed with home made wire harness to EI dizzy. Will finish the dizzy install tomorrow.

 

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Two oil pumps... which is which??

 

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Only way I know is to remove and look in the oil inlet port. The inlet is the oval shaped hole beside the shaft. The one below, if you look in you can just see the flat surface of the trochoid rotors.

 

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See the difference? These are 14% taller and much easier to see.

 

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Here is the KA24E high volume oil pump installed. Looks just like the L18 one... no way to tell from the outside. Oddly enough the KA oil pump is now sharing the same motor as it's old friend the 80 amp alternator that came off the same KA.

 

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Okay, for some reason the dizzy does not position properly so I spent an hour mixing and matching bases and flipping plates. Found this one that might be from a Z series dizzy?

 

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I had to enlarge the one slot and oval a hole and it is on a different L pedestal.

 

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When mounted the #1 is towards the intake and the matchbox to the rad with the vacuum advance snug to the rad hose. In the thermostat housing there is a temp switch beside the temp gauge sender that tells the EGR when the motor is warm and can start working. It was in the way so I removed and used a bung from an old intake to plug it. So from now on there will be no more ERG. :lol:

 

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I'll be damned but with everything that was removed and changed and the custom wire harness and adjustment plate, I stabbed the throttle 3 times and cranked an it fired up and runs just fine. I'll have to drive and fine tune the timing.

 

 

 

There is a black wire that was the connection between the points and the coil. Its just to the right of the yellow temp sender wire above. Seeing as how I made my own mini harness and this isn't needed now I plugged the dizzy end into the module ground lug and the other end near the coil I plugged into a spare lug and grounded it. Just a little ground insurance.

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Filled my gas tank Wed. and the gauge stopped working! Probably it's up somewhere it hasn't been for over 8 years. After some driving around it started reading only read 3/4. After sloshing around till today it finally is saying fill. :lol: Datsun saves.

 

Today I took it in to have the two front tires balanced and one is lumpy, probably from sitting for 8 years, so I got a used one on and vibration gone. Woot.

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Filled my gas tank Wed. and the gauge stopped working! Probably it's up somewhere it hasn't been for over 8 years. After some driving around it started reading only read 3/4. After sloshing around till today it finally is saying fill. :lol: Datsun saves.

 

Today I took it in to have the two front tires balanced and one is lumpy, probably from sitting for 8 years, so I got a used one on and vibration gone. Woot.

 

 

Mike, the last 2 datsuns i've owned had a similar problem. I filled it up, and it only read 1/2 to 3/4 tank. After a few fill ups it read full again. My guess was the previous owners never filled it up, as they weren't vehicles that sat.

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The spare tank I took apart and removed the sender. It was glued with varnish from dried gasoline and took quite a bit of force (without bending it) to loosen. I doubt it would have shook loose unless the gas dissolved it. .

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Changing lanes to the right is scary, there is no side mirror!! All vehicles have them no but back in '74 they didn't nor were they required to but I'd feel safer with one. So I pulled the remote control ones on my 620 and will put them in today. They are a bit moldy:

 

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Most are only long enough to mount on the drivers door. The trick is to find a right side one that has the longer remote cables that will run along behind the dash and over close to the steering wheel where it can be mounted and is easy to reach by the driver. For now I am leaving the controls inside the doors out of sight and will fish them out and install properly later. For now I want and need mirrors.

 

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Did the driver's side first by using the gasket to mark out the holes (the holes for the original fit but were too small) and ream out a larger hole for the control to feed through. By measuring this side I was able to copy it to the passenger side. And...

 

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Quiet, elegant and do not stand out too much.

 

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Mirrors that work, match and one day will be working remote control.

 

 

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The remote is on almost every GM driver's door. Checked dozens of passenger side but the only one was an older full size Pontiac (or was it Buick) station wagon. The remote cables are 4-5 feet long to reach over by the steering wheel dash mount where the driver can reach it. Perfect!

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Today I was fixing up the interior now that the heavy lifting jobs are done I can pick at the less important aesthetics. I noticed the 710 console has a circular hole with a bezel. It's where the clock should be but isn't. The clock is where an oil pressure gauge should be. The owner's manual does not show what it's for either.

 

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Just for laughs I tried to fit a 720 oil pressure gauge in the hole and it was so close I scrapped a chainsaw file around the inside and in it went! Here's the 720 volt and oil pressure gauge. I removed the fitting that secures it and jig sawed it in half to hold only the oil pressure gauge.

 

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I pushed the gauge in from the front and assembled the hold down and bolted it in.

 

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And here's the results:

 

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Tomorrow I will install the Nissan oil pressure gauge/low pressure sender. And wire it in plus connect up the lights to the wiring that lights up the shifter.

 

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Oh yeah The Canadian gauge is in Kilograms per square centimeter ?? whatever. Thanks to Steve G years ago he sent me a U S one in sensible PSI.

 

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OK removed the stock sender that signals low pressure. (RED OIL LIGHT) The wire can be left as the replacement 720 4X4 sender also has this function. I got a dual plug and wired a male bullet connector to the wire so I can use the stock sender terminal. This way if I have a problem I can swap back to the stock sender and it will still plug in. The gauge sender wire I ran along the trans interlock wires for the automatic then up behind the motor and into the cab near the gas peddle.

 

The blue wire with red shrink wrap has the bullet connector that allows the stock sender wire to plug into the 720 sender. The Black/White wire just below it is the gauge wire.

 

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The wire colors are a miss match but they are soldered, shrunk wrapped and tapped anyway

 

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ALWAYS use a proper wrench to remove and tighten the Nissan gauge sender. You can turn it on like an oil filter but it might bugger it up and not work or leak. Apparently a 9/16 fits the BNPT fitting.

 

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The install looks pretty much stock, and I like that.

 

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I found the old sender was easier to get at if you take the oil filter off.

 

I had the 720 wire harness plug that matches the gauge plug and wired the light into the wiring for the light that illuminates the auto trans shifter. The only thing left is any power supply that is on with the ignition. I spliced into the windshield wiper fuse. It fired up and ran without leaking and the light and the gauge reads about 30 PSI at hot idle. Not bad.

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OK removed the stock sender that signals low pressure. (RED OIL LIGHT) The wire can be left as the replacement 720 4X4 sender also has this function. I got a dual plug and wired a male bullet connector to the wire so I can use the stock sender terminal. This way if I have a problem I can swap back to the stock sender and it will still plug in. The gauge sender wire I ran along the trans interlock wires for the automatic then up behind the motor and into the cab near the gas peddle.

 

The blue wire with red shrink wrap has the bullet connector that allows the stock sender wire to plug into the 720 sender. The Black/White wire just below it is the gauge wire.

 

710oilgageinstall012Large.jpg

 

The wire colors are a miss match but they are soldered, shrunk wrapped and tapped anyway

 

710oilgageinstall014Large.jpg

 

ALWAYS use a proper wrench to remove and tighten the Nissan gauge sender. You can turn it on like an oil filter but it might bugger it up and not work or leak. Apparently a 9/16 fits the BNPT fitting.

 

710oilgageinstall015Large.jpg

 

The install looks pretty much stock, and I like that.

 

710oilgageinstall016Large.jpg

 

I found the old sender was easier to get at if you take the oil filter off.

 

I had the 720 wire harness plug that matches the gauge plug and wired the light into the wiring for the light that illuminates the auto trans shifter. The only thing left is any power supply that is on with the ignition. I spliced into the windshield wiper fuse. It fired up and ran without leaking and the light and the gauge reads about 30 PSI at hot idle. Not bad.

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Nice work Mike, I like that!

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  • 3 months later...

Well a few small things have come up to fix on the sedan. Mrs. datzen is the primary driver (figures) and has a gripe about how far the driver's seat tilts back. Seems it's too reclined. I know I had a sore back before Canby that I blamed on the poor seat support. So I checked it out and everything look right so... I took the back part off and partially disassembled it and using a triangular file made an extra tooth for the mating teeth to set into and that sets the back in a more upright position. I'll get the verdict tomorrow after work.

 

Noticed the parking lights were out... and of course this means she was driving around with no tail lights too. :o Getting important now because it gets dark earlier. Just the fuse, bad contact.

 

The horn quit weeks ago and I just kept forgetting to look at it. Push the tabs and the relay clicks so I kept at it for a few minutes and it slowly came back. I assume the relay contacts were dirty from disuse.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well cooled damp weather and the sedan fan belt squeals on start up in the morning. I checked it and it looked ok and snug so I rubbed a piece of bar soap on it and that's that's it. FF to yesterday, Mrs. datsun was in town and the charge light came on. After shopping she drove home and it got warm. (only 4Km) I went out and no steam and everything was ok but hot, broken belt around the fan.

 

Now this is the original Nissan belt from '74, the one I checked on the way to Canby and found some loose fluffy cords from it on the thermostat housing. The one that I bought a new one for from Schmucks in WA but it was getting dark so I said fuckit, let it break and I'll change it. Well that was June and I forgot all about it. Damn I got to pay more attention to Mrs. datsun's complaining. :rolleyes:

 

It was on the package tray. Fit the KA alt fine just like the original. Went and warmed up the goon to charge the battery

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  • 5 weeks later...

Mike....just got back.

Took some oics.....lots of nice parts.

I've got good news and bad news.

The good news..... it has the smiley bumper!... :thumbup:

The bad news.....I just bought it... :fu:

Just kidding...... :lol: :lol: :lol:

I'll upload the pics ASAP

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I should of looked over the car a little better...floor boards etc, because it didn't look in too bad of shape.

No hatch or tail lights.....but.....could be restored..?...if one found some papers and or for it.

He said it ran good....no papers and he wanted 250 for it, might be able to get the price down a bit.

Slightly different console than yours.

Notice all the chrome around the doors and where the antenna is?

Dash looks good.....Good glass, hood.....and the bumper of course.

I'm assuming it was a hatch back..... :D

 

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I first saw this car about 10 years ago on your road.... the guy had it fiull of firewood, hence the hackjob to the rear... the jack handle through the drivers side quarter is where the guy had the swivel jack for his firewood dump box LOL!:rofl: :rofl:

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I first saw this car about 10 years ago on your road.... the guy had it fiull of firewood, hence the hackjob to the rear... the jack handle through the drivers side quarter is where the guy had the swivel jack for his firewood dump box LOL!:rofl: :rofl:

 

 

It does look somewhat familiar.... :lol:

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good... let me know if you want to take it home with my truck / trailer... i'm only around til wednesday... unfortunately i won't likely be going to Victoria next week, but maybe in january.

 

 

See what Mike wants to do....but ya we could haul it here, got some wood to deliver :lol:

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

I first saw this car about 10 years ago on your road.... the guy had it fiull of firewood, hence the hackjob to the rear... the jack handle through the drivers side quarter is where the guy had the swivel jack for his firewood dump box LOL!:rofl: :rofl:

 

Only in Clearwater(is the water clear after seeing this?) :P :rofl: :rofl: :w00t:

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