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72wagun

Electronic Ignitions For L motors (4 cyl.)

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At the bottom left of the reply window is a paperclip...drag files here or choose files.  I did the choose files and it uploaded the pic onto ratsun.  We weren't able to do that years ago when I was a lot more active.  Loading them up to your own picture hosting site....it's hard to recommend photobucket, but they're much better right now than they have been for the last few years.  There's lots of other other option.  If you put them on your own hosting site, you can insert them again somewhere else anytime.  I'm kinda stuck with PB since I have around 7000 pics on ratsun, all hosted on PB.  

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Okay  found the problem so the truck for some reason it work the way I had it wired the first time and the way I have it now like the diagram shows the problem was the green magnetic strip on the pertronix what I did was remove the green wrapper and install the parts back  and then it started like a top  so that was my solution  thanks for all the help 

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13 hours ago, Alexp521 said:

Okay  found the problem so the truck for some reason it work the way I had it wired the first time and the way I have it now like the diagram shows the problem was the green magnetic strip on the pertronix what I did was remove the green wrapper and install the parts back  and then it started like a top  so that was my solution  thanks for all the help 

Um i believe you actual do not want to remove that green tape.... 

I dont remember why but I remember that for some reason.....

When you first installed the pertronix did you set a gap between the magnet and the pickup? 

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Screenshot-20201122-085227-Gallery.jpg  

From the pertronix instructions,  must be in bold for a reason.....

Edited by Crashtd420

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This is the tape I took off and it’s from the old pertronix I didn’t want to brake the new one but  it’s working now

3A240B39-3B84-4057-90AC-980744FE32D0.jpeg

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What's the point of the green tape? Is the magnet in pieces and it holds together? Is it Teflon coated in case something rubs it?

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23 minutes ago, Alexp521 said:

I have no clue but that’s the only way I got spark  on run when I took that tap off

I have no clue why it's there either... Well if it's working, its working... 

 

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And one more thing by any  chance  dose any one know where I can buy door window regulator  I know it’s off the topic

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1 hour ago, Alexp521 said:

And one more thing by any  chance  dose any one know where I can buy door window regulator  I know it’s off the topic

I know of a passenger window regulator that's available... I actually just bought a driverside one from the guy....

Other than that try placing a classified ad here for one...

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You might try contacting tdaaj  ....he deals with a lot of parts.  

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BW is ON  goes to resisitor  onw wire

 

other side resisitor goes to + side coil  and is the HOT Start  2 wires

 

 

NEVER take the GREEN TAPE OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  this holds the magnets and if worn out the magnet stick to the dist shaft and one pulls out the Ring. Don't pull out the ring just wipe it down and I put some superglue or nail polish varnish on the tape line so it don't peel.

You can get new mAGNET rINGS IF ONE FUCKS THEM UP

,

 

IF ONE ONLY GETS SPARK ON Run then you hooked up the wires wrong or the switch or the Ballast resisitor wire is wrong or fuse broke on the Black Wite wire routing

 

 

This is simple fix

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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There's also another way to cheaply get deecent electronic ignition spark for you old L series.....20 years ago or so I bought a Velleman K2543 Electronic Ignition Kit for like $20 (available at old electronics stores like Marvac, RadioCrack, etc)...I installed it in a small "watertight" enclosure on the firewall. If you can solder this is a super easy and fast project (remember the old Heath Kits??) It has a built-in heatsink too.

This unit lasted many years in my '73 610, but was finicky if it got a little too much moisture. I replaced it eventually with the same unit, but this time I mounted it inside out of the way on the kick panel. Also - If you use a standard 4-prong trailers light connectors they can easily be made to be removed......also....if it went bad on me out on the road, it was just a simple wire change to use the points in an emergency. This is because the kit still uses the stock points  but only as breakers, so they never get hot, burn, or wear out. I'd still change the points every few years anyway cause the spring will eventually weaken. 

 

Vicdat

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4 hours ago, vicdat said:

There's also another way to cheaply get deecent electronic ignition spark for you old L series.....20 years ago or so I bought a Velleman K2543 Electronic Ignition Kit for like $20 (available at old electronics stores like Marvac, RadioCrack, etc)...I installed it in a small "watertight" enclosure on the firewall. If you can solder this is a super easy and fast project (remember the old Heath Kits??) It has a built-in heatsink too.

This unit lasted many years in my '73 610, but was finicky if it got a little too much moisture. I replaced it eventually with the same unit, but this time I mounted it inside out of the way on the kick panel. Also - If you use a standard 4-prong trailers light connectors they can easily be made to be removed......also....if it went bad on me out on the road, it was just a simple wire change to use the points in an emergency. This is because the kit still uses the stock points  but only as breakers, so they never get hot, burn, or wear out. I'd still change the points every few years anyway cause the spring will eventually weaken. 

 

Vicdat

https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-K2543-Electronic-Transistor-Ignition/dp/B007GP6EQ6

Price: $21.95 + $5.13 shipping

 

 

Edit: attached wiring diagram and parts list for general interest.

91L+BJJA0aL.pdf

Edited by Dguy210

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Mark_10_CDI_0001a.jpg

 

Had one of these on my 4 year old '64 Dodge.  When the points close the 12 v is converted into a square wave. This is run through a step up transformer to 400v and charges up a capacitor. When the points open the 400v is fired through the stock coil for a higher output. I think it was around $50 in the day, about a weeks pay.

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Thanks will consider replacing. The ring I have the new ring ther so ima roll with it till it doesn’t work any longer and then put the new one most like in the future ima  swap to a z21 I have a almost complet truck 

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